Ranger 27 poop tank mystery…

[tranmkp]

So I was just doing a visual on the engine compartment - brain memory and I see the valve apparatus for what I think has to do with waste transfer - right below the wash down pump.

That short section of hose has some sort of suction on it to make it all….collapsed looking - however everything is working splendidly

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[CaspersCruiser]

What you have photographed is your waste system “Y” valve. The gray handle on the black valve body moves to select between holding tank “pump out” position (the position shown in the photo) and the “pump overboard” position (via macerator pump). Following the arrows on the pump body is a visual indication of which way holding tank waste flows.

The zip tie through the gray handle is there is to secure it in the “pump out” position. It is illegal to pump waste overboard unless you’re in the ocean more than three miles off shore of the U.S. If you get boarded and inspected by authorities, one item they may check is that the “Y” valve is secured in the “pump out” position. The zip tie satisfies that requirement. Keep it there.

 

[knotflying]

I suspect that when the small section of hose was installed, being so short, while being manhandled to make the connection the sides were squeezed in. You will only use that section while at sea beyond 3 miles. Check local law on discharge. If while using, you have no issues than don't worry about it. IMO, you should run the macerator pump at least once a year to clear out any crud and make sure it works and stays operative. If you have your tank pumped make sure it is pretty clean and then add a bit of water to the tank and go out and do a discharge to make sure all is well.

 

[CaspersCruiser]

…….you should run the macerator pump at least once a year to clear out any crud and make sure it works and stays operative……

I accomplish this during winterization. I have the holding tank pumped out before putting the boat on the trailer at the end of the season. I put four gallons of rinse water into the holding tank and discharge it into a 5-gallon bucket using the macerator pump. Then I run pink anti-freeze through the toilet to winterize it and flush it into the holding tank. I add a couple more gallons of pink anti-freeze to the holding tank and discharge some through the macerator pump to winterize that.

 

[tranmkp]

Thank you all for the info - I pump out the tank myself at the marina - I was thinking I was “sucking” a little too long just to get all the juice out…and it could have collapsed it


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[CaspersCruiser]

Thank you all for the info - I pump out the tank myself at the marina - I was thinking I was “sucking” a little too long just to get all the juice out…and it could have collapsed it

I think you know this but, just to assure you, with the Y-valve in the “pump out” position, no suction is applied to that section of hose. With the Y-valve in the “overboard” position, if you try to pump out, nothing comes out. Don’t ask me how I know this.

Actually, just so others don’t repeat my mistake, I had run pink antifreeze through the macerator pump as part of the winterization process during my first year of ownership. To do so, the zip tie securing the Y-valve in the “pump out” position has to be cut and the Y-valve handle moved to the “overboard” position. What I failed to do after running antifreeze through the macerator pump was to reposition the Y-valve handle back to the “pumpout” position and zip tie it.

Four months later when I towed the boat to Florida for a cruise, I didn’t catch my mistake. When I tried to pump out, nothing came out. It was a real head scratcher until a response to a Tugnuts post pointed out the likely cause. The real, and potentially expensive, issue was that if I had been boarded and inspected with that Y-valve handle inadvertently in the “overboard” position, I likely would have been cited and fined. I try to pass this tidbit about my error to every new owner who asks for advice on boat operation or winterization.

 

[Chimo]

Food for thought. When we boated on the Chesapeake in MD a zip tie on the Y valve passed inspection but a padlock earned a ticket. The logic was that a padlock could be unlocked whereas a zip tie cost money to replace if cut and was therefore more of a deterrent to abuse. I’m still trying to digest the logic.

 

[knotflying]

Food for thought and black water tank discussion do not go together. :lol:

 

[CaspersCruiser]

…… on the Chesapeake in MD a zip tie on the Y valve passed inspection but a padlock earned a ticket. The logic was that a padlock could be unlocked whereas a zip tie cost money to replace if cut and was therefore more of a deterrent to abuse. I’m still trying to digest the logic.

A perfect example of bureaucracy making no sense.

 

[H28]

Logic: "costs money to cut a zip tie"

100 pack of 8" = $3.99. $.04 per zip tie. honestly.................

 

[tranmkp]

Ok let me update on the poop tank and odors - we pump out the poop tank frequently and give it three or four repeated wash downs to keep it clean and then put the proper bio poop brew in it he tank.

But there was always a lingering smell at foot level in the cabin every time I went down low to take out pans and such and open the other cabinets I detected a type of poop tank smell.

Well, what I discovered when I was tearing out the rotted plywood in the starboard aft locker, pause for effect, when I pulled up the rotten plywood to reveal the primordial, sewer sludge pudding, soup underneath that rotten floorboard it almost made me vomit!

It turns out when the hatches aren’t ceiling water goes in to the gelcoat covered plywood and rots it from the outside and at the same time when the shower sump does not drain or if it overflows the water drains out and gets into an under that floorboard.

I am attaching a photo of the cleaned up bottom solid, fiberglass, and gel coat that will stop the process.of Alsofixing the shower sump and installing a manual pump out switch.

All food for thought!

Also - the collapsed hose was caused by me running the macerator pump without opening the valve!


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