Raritan seaera head instantly blowing fuse

Cutwater28GG

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2016
Messages
1,969
Location
seattle
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Cutwater 28
Vessel Name
Living The Dream
We came back to the boat after 6 weeks and when pressing the toilet flush button the fuse instantly pops.

The head worked when we left

I have isolated the flush button so that’s not the issue so my current conclusion is that some build up has jammed the motor and it’s pulling too much current and popping the fuse.

I can’t see a way to manually try and turn the motor like the jabasco units.

Any ideas ? Has anyone had this?
 
I think it was year 8 or 9 the flush switch died due to corrosion. Replaced the switch. Now this year first time the motor completely died. No noise, no clicking, no nothing. Motor was dead and had it replaced. There is a spinning blade inside the assembly which may have something jammed into that area. Also looks like my seal to the motor leaked, but whatever destroyed it, it was successful in its quest. Also might want to check the joker valve and replace it if it hasn't been replaced. I think I got 8 years out of mine.

Stuart
 
I started blowing fuses on my Tecma after it was less than 3 years old. The pump was corroded and viewing it, obviously, needed replacement. Since replacing the pump and joker valve, I now use the shower to flush, most of the time, which eliminates bad odors and I am hoping with lengthen the life of both the pump and joker.

Several folks posted techniques to clean the input line and eliminate odor, however, it's pretty easy to flush this way. I also consider re-plumbing, but like having the option to use raw water if needed.
 
ive never tackled the head disassembly job (had joker valves serviced by someone else)

I feel its time to tackle and learn this job. any advice?
 
Cutwater28GG":3nguj37i said:
ive never tackled the head disassembly job (had joker valves serviced by someone else)

I feel its time to tackle and learn this job. any advice?

The opposite for me...I replaced my own joker valve and learned enough that I had someone else replace the pump. It was ridiculously difficult since someone had epoxied the joker housing which is meant to easily separate.

The space is so limited that you have to remove the head to work on it. Removing it requires cutting several wires. I did have the mechanic use bullet connections when he reassembled, so I won't need to cut the wires next time.
 
I replaced the joker valve on our C28 and it really wasn't that bad. Brian Brown gave some good advice that I followed when I did mine http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.ph...&sid=acdc9e6f984b2565dd24e39b39f32c68#p105506. I only had a stubby screwdriver on board which wasn't quite long enough, so had to borrow one from the marina office. Other than that, it was fairly easy. If I recall, I had to take out the 4 screws that hold the drain hose on, swapped the valve, and then put the 4 screws back.
 
I’ve decided to replace the lower assembly unit. It’s 10 years old and not a lot more money than just the motor and macerator.

In theory this should be easier than the disassembly of the lower unit. Let’s see
 
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