Raw Water Supply for the Head Question?

HawaiianFish

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2022
Messages
115
Fluid Motion Model
R-23 (Outboard)
Hull Identification Number
FMLC3010F819
Vessel Name
Pau Hana
I am in the process of commissioning my newly purchased 2019 C30 and trying to figure out how to get the raw water supply to the head.
I initially got the toilet to flush and fill with the pink antifreeze, but then it went dry and now just clicks.
I opened the multi port seacock which also feeds the A/C which I got working, so the issue is not with the seacock or strainer.
I’m thinking there is a ball valve between the sea water strainer and the head but can’t find one in the manual or engine compartment.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. - Also if you have experience in commissioning a larger FM boat, I got the water tank filled and water going through the hot water lines, turned on the water heater A/C breaker, but can’t figure out what else I’m supposed to do. Whoever winterized the boat did put a tag on the cockpit helm which reads “hot water heater bypassed”, however the only ball valves I found were on the forward port side of the engine compartment where I think the hot water lines go into the engine for heating while running.
 
Koi, on the toilet (at least on my boat), there’s a pump in the engine compartment that feeds the toilet. Is that pump working? It says seatech / thetford on it. I have the tecma electric macerator toilet.


https://1drv.ms/u/s!An3QgiOrn39pqwjc80KMPyDdCtUz
 
The Ranger Tug series " As the Prop Turns"on You Tube would help your learning curve.....especially the #1 and #2 Spring Maintenance videos.
 
dbsea":3smvx25j said:
Koi, on the toilet (at least on my boat), there’s a pump in the engine compartment that feeds the toilet. Is that pump working? It says seatech / thetford on it. I have the tecma electric macerator toilet.


https://1drv.ms/u/s!An3QgiOrn39pqwjc80KMPyDdCtUz

Dbsea, thanks for the photo. Yes I have that pump, but am unsure if it is working. Does it have a dedicated on/off switch, or fuse? I searched my fuse panels and could not find out which one it is?
 
Catch22":2hepaanx said:
The Ranger Tug series " As the Prop Turns"on You Tube would help your learning curve.....especially the #1 and #2 Spring Maintenance videos.

Thanks Catch22, I just finished watching both videos, and the raw water pump for the head was not covered. But I did learn about the bypass for the hot water heater by watching Robin Shoop’s videos. He works on a R31 and his videos are pretty good. I really liked his oil change of a D4, convinced me to do my own D6 which is almost identical.

https://youtu.be/bmxtPNNYQgg
 
I have to assume it’s tied to the 25A “head” fuse in the mirror fuse panel. Don’t see anything else in the wiring diagrams on that. When you flush the head you should hear the pump run if it’s working. Might need two people to listen while the toilet is filling.
 
dbsea":2fhaalyt said:
I have to assume it’s tied to the 25A “head” fuse in the mirror fuse panel. Don’t see anything else in the wiring diagrams on that. When you flush the head you should hear the pump run if it’s working. Might need two people to listen while the toilet is filling.
The head is getting power because it flushes and the lights are on, i am not sure about the raw water pump. The toilet was able to supply pink anti freeze several times before it went dry, so it worked when they winterized it. I will check the pump and continue to look for a possible ball valve or separate in line fuse for the pump. I find it very hard to believe the pump wouldn't have its own fuse. Thanks again!
 
The C30 has a second raw water strainer on the starboard side for the head and cockpit washdown. It has a separate seacock, not obvious to see under the air filter. Did you check that? And if so, is the cockpit washdown working?

If cockpit washdown works then the problem may be with the head pump. Alternatively, could it have been converted to a fresh water head by previous owner? Then it might be a separate valve or check valve.
 
Hi HawaiianFish,

The fuse for the head pump is in the compartment behind the mirror in the head. You'll see a 25-amp fuse below three green 30-amp fuses and atop a one-amp fuse on the left side of that panel (Dash 1) The rest of the gang here pretty much already dialed in the rest of the info for you. Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ralf
 
Thank you SJI Sailor, the C30 LE has a multi port raw water strainer in the starboard engine bay as well that supplies the A/C, Head and cockpit raw water wash down. The A/C is working so I am positive it is not the strainer or seacock.

Aloha Ralf, perfect, I have been trying to figure out which fuse it was, this is a great help. I’m really hoping to remove it tomorrow to find it blown…

As far as the water heater, I worked out what by passed meant. (See photo) I routed the water back into the water heater today and will turn it on tomorrow to see if it is operational.

One take away after working with the PEX connectors used in my Cutwater, these things are not of a very high quality. I rather they had used crimped connections which are actually cheaper.
Also I found one of those QC issues with my water tank outlet. When they screwed down the bracket to secure the PEX pipe, it bent the threaded PEX barb, and attempted to caulk it instead of fixing it. (see 2nd photo) Not a hard fix though…

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GmlR5f6beOsLT4L9huz4B45vNnMe_Dhp/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N-AVcDzj0VJuYTbVxee23hDlCZ80sWSi/view?usp=sharing
 
For what it’s worth I had the same problem of the electric head on my 2020 C32-CB not supplying water to the bowl during the flush, and had determined it wasn’t an electronic issue with the fuse. The raw water wash down still worked, so I didn’t think it had to do with the intake ball valve or the sea strainer. The root cause was that the ball valve at the pipe junction just after the raw water wash down pipe in the engine compartment under the cockpit had jostled closed. Easy quarter turn to reopen it.
 
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