Refrigerator dysfunction!

[RDragon]

Good Morning! I need the concerted wisdom of the membership...
Mid-november we had a disconnect from shore power and it tripped our surge protection on the boat (Red light was on the shore power panel when I came down to the boat 1 afternoon) Anyway, the fridge seemed to be working harder on both AC & DC power. I didn't think too much of it, because it got really cold and it seemed that it was warmer in the fridge than the boat. During the holidays, we were out a few times and my wife noticed the fridge "didn't work on shore power." It did seem to work on DC though, so we just stopped using the AC aspect.
Last night, went to the boat to enjoy some down time and opened the fridge....Mold! It was truly hotter in the ice box than the boat. The DC circuit was on and the fridge was noisely running away but obviously not working correctly.

So my question...What happened? My wife thinks "the compressor went out" Course, I think that is everyone's answer when fridges and Air con units don't work right. I have looked and can't find another fuse other than the panels. I have not pulled the fridge out or the panels to make sure the connections are good.

Last question...Anyone remember what the warrenty is on the Norcold's?

Thanks!

 

[Spirit of Gratitude]

Try going here for warranty info: http://www.rekitchen.com/refrigerator/b ... rcold.html

 

[j&lgray]

My post follows in the next window

 

[j&lgray]

You should call Andrew at the factory to hear his wisdom on this. He has a background in boat refrigeration and knows the issues well. The factory now uses the Novacool make because it runs on 12 volt and uses very few amps and it is easy to service. The Novacold has been around a long time and has a good track record but it is more difficult to service because the unit is mounted on its mounts and then the galley unit is nearly put in around it. So getting to the issue will take more time and effort but it can be done.

Make sure you have 12 volt power to the unit-listen for fan and motor operations. Do the same in the 120 volt operation. If you do not have evidence of power, then look at the power supply issues. If you have power then the issue is within the unit itself and this came be as simple as connection broken or a clogged/blocked air intake to a more complex problem like a failed controller board.

Keep us up to date on what you found.

 

[sparky]

And if you have to pull the fridge out, first remove the passenger seat! I was mostly through removing the fridge last year when I discovered just how tight things are. :shock:

Our fridge only works on DC.

We are installing solar panels this week to keep things happy on board.

 

[commander bill]

I also have the older model frig with both 12VDC and 120VAC power. Does anyone know if there is a potential problem with having the unit powered from both sources at same time. I usually keep unit powered from 120VAC while at slip on shore power and shift to 12VDC when I take the boat out. Since this unit actually appears to have a compressor (as opposed to absorption type frigs found in RVs) I assume there may only be a single compressor which is DC powered but I have not seen an electrical drawing.

 

[bbrh842]

Commander Bill,

I have the 12V-120V fridge also. I don't think there is any problem having both power sources on at the same time.
If there was I would certainly have blown my out by now.

 

[RDragon]

Thanks for the thoughts!
R'dragon has gone to her berthing place and I look forward to further thoughts from Andrew and the crew...I will relay what I have bunged up this time! 😳 Thank god for the Ranger guys...Otherwise the boat gods would make me package my baby up and send her back....Too stupid to care for!

Have a great evening
Drew

 

[johnniethek]

If you do want to contact Nova Kool, here is the appropriate info:

E-mail: support@novakool.com

Phone: 604-523-6515 xt 104 from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. PST.

The brochure I have says they have a two-year limited warranty. Dunno if that applies in your case.