Removing scratches on hull

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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Sundowner 36 Tug
Vessel Name
Alaskan Star
Hello,
I have a 2022 Ranger 31 with a midnight blue hull. I have half a dozen scratches on the blue hull (likely from the Weaver davits hardware on my inflatable). I have followed the factory instructions for buffing out and waxing the scratched area. It was an improvement but did not eliminate the fine scratch. Is there any midnight blue touch up gel coat or something I can use to deal with these?
Thanks for any information you can provide.
John Schoen
Anchorage, AK
 
Buffing out scratches can be a difficult process. I'm not sure of the factory instructions. The first step is to determine if the scratches are as deep as the thickness of the Gel coat. If the scratch is deep it may be hard to make the scratch disappear. My procedure for scratch removal on a colored hull is determine how deep the scratch is. To deep, I compound, polish, wax. A heavy compound with a wool pad. Compound a large area around the scratches to help blend. This should polish the scratch making it less noticeable. The issue with using a heavy compound is, it leaves swill marks that look like fine scratches in the finish. To remove them use a polishing compound. If it is a small area I use a 5" foam pad white color. This will remove the swirl marks and fine scratches. The final step is a good wax/protectant. Apply the wax, let it haze over, then use a polishing pad or a foam pad black in color. If the area looks better but not good enough repeat. After second application that is as good as it is going to get.

If you feel the scratches are not to deep and the scratch does not penetrate close to the fiberglass then uses a1000 grit wet sand paper. Sand the scratches out. Don't sand only on the scratches move out several inches and sand a wider area to blend the scratches with the hull. This helps prevent from sanding through the gelcoat and removes the scatches and evens the surface. Once you see that the scotches have blended into the surface go over the area lightly with 1500 grit paper to reduce the sanding scratches. Using a heavy grit compound buff the area with a wool pad. Move outside the area that you sanded to blend the surface. Polish until you see a good shine. Use a polishing compound to remove fine scratches and swirl marks. Using a soft rag hand polish and look at the results. You may have to repeat the compounding and polishing again. Once you are satisfied with the outcome. Apply your finish wax protectant.

Touching up scratches in gel coat does not work! You will always see we=here you touched up and it will look worse that the scratches. If you want to apply a new finish to cover up the scratches practice on something else first. There is an art to Gelcoat work. It needs to be mixed to color match, then applied by spraying using the correct amount of hardener and thinner. Then wet sanded and buffed. For most folks this is a job for a professional.

Good Luck
 
I’ve dealt with several deep scratches from various sources as well. If you see light blue (not the black fiberglass) in the scratch it can be repaired without gelcoat work.

Took me a while to figure what worked best to bring back the glossy mirror finish. I was stuck at the point where I had a visible haze or hairline scratches/swirls.

I sand the deep scratches (from about 800 down to about 10,000 grit) with random or it polisher to where they can’t be felt with your fingernail. I then use a random orbit polisher with 6” wool polishing pads for compounding/polishing. I use Glidecoat products but figure others would likely be fine as well. First pass with their medium cut nano compound. There should be a little blue gelcoat visible on the pad. The next pass with their nano polish for a really nice, just about perfect, finish. Each pass I spent about 5-10 minutes working the affected area. Quite happy. Finally.

https://a.co/d/80544TB

https://a.co/d/23cidJ8
 
Much thanks for the valuable instructions.

John
 
I have repaired many scratches over 10 years on our 2014 Hero Red R27 Classic. Sanding out scratches wears through the gelcoat more quickly and will make a “hollow” in the area where sanded. Instead, I always fill all scratches with gel coat first. It turns out like new. I have matching gelcoat purchased from the factory. If they no longer sell it they can probably provide the color number.

I have found the key is to clean the scratch really well with acetone prior to gel coat application. Then I use a very fine tipped art brush to overfill the scratch with gelcoat (with added catalyst). After about 10-15 minutes set time I spray over the new gel coat with mold release wax (a foam brush works too). The gel coat won’t cure properly if exposed to oxygen. The next day I wet sand down the new gelcoat area to the level of the surrounding gelcoat with 600 to 800 grit paper. I sand carefully until the scratched area matches the immediate surrounding area careful not to take it too deep. Then sand again with 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit. Then follow with the heavy compound and a wool pad on a rotary buffer and finally with polish/glaze with foam pad on a dual action polisher. Then wax or ceramic coat the area (or whole boat!) depending on your preference.

Curt
 
If you have deep scratches I’d suggest filling them with matching gel coat before sanding. You will sand less material next to the scratches if the scratches are filled first.
https://marinecoatone.com/product-categ ... _1EALw_wcB

Tell them you have Ranger Tug Blue and they have that color available. It was an excellent match for our C-28 anchor hull small ding.
 
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