Removing thruster anodes

D

dpiano

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
51
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Vessel Name
Spindrift
Does anyone have a fancy way to remove the bow thruster anode?
I change the anodes yearly on our R-29 classic, and each time the bow thruster anode is a nightmare to remove. The screw comes out fine, but the anode just doesn't want to come off. Working in that tunnel restricts most tools. There is better access with the stern thruster. The best I've come up with is a very long sharp screwdriver and hammer. Last year I applied silicone grease to the area when attaching the new anode. Just changed them again, and no better. Worse, actually. I have wondered about installing a piece of aluminum foil between the shaft and anode, or something like that. There's got to be a better way!
 
Mine were stuck BIG time. I emailed SideThruster and got an immediate answer. He suggested PB Blaster overnight and pliers. Pliers don't fit, but the basin wrench does! Not looking forward to it again.
 
thanks for the tool tip. On my way to home depot when I get back to port.
 
I use needle nose pliers. One tip in the bolt hole and the other tip on the outside of the anode. Always comes right off.
 
Red Raven":2dwzvcs7 said:
I use needle nose pliers. One tip in the bolt hole and the other tip on the outside of the anode. Always comes right off.
Click to expand...

Same for me. Never had an issue, they pop right off with needle nose pliers.

Howard
 
I simply use the bolt and allen key/wrench as a lever to pop it loos. Just back the allen screw out past the threads then apply a bit of sideways pressure on the wrench. This method likely wouldn't work if the zinc is severely depleted.
 
Red Raven":sj5hnykx said:
I use needle nose pliers. One tip in the bolt hole and the other tip on the outside of the anode. Always comes right off.
Click to expand...
Curt, I tried needle nose pliers, but they were too short to fit in the thruster tunnel. Do you have an extra long set?
 
I do have a long set which makes it really easy but I can get in there with a regular set as well. The tunnel is 5 inches across and my needle nose handles only need to open to 3” to get a hold of it. That leaves an inch for fingers on each handle. I only need to open the tips a half inch or so because one tip is in the hole. Maybe your pliers are larger?
 
This thread came at just the right time for me. I removed the thruster anodes today. The bolts were 4mm hex head and I used these with a 3/8” socket wrench to remove them:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-i ... /202934858

To reach the bolt head in the bow thruster, a 4” extension was needed. The bow thruster bolt broke loose with just a little extra torque. Not so with the stern thruster. Wouldn’t budge. I sprayed it liberally with Liquid Wrench and let it sit for an hour or so, but it wouldn’t break loose. I let it sit for a while longer and then applied enough torque to where I thought either the hex wrench was going to slip in the bolt head or the bolt was going to break loose. Thankfully, the bolt broke loose.

After removing the bolts, the anodes were still stuck tight. I first tried needle nose pliers. No joy there with either the bow or stern. The bow thruster anode came off by twisting it with the basin wrench mentioned in a couple posts above, but I couldn’t gain a purchase on the stern thruster anode using it. What worked on the stern anode was grabbing it with a big pair of Channel Lock pliers and giving it a twist.

After getting the old anodes off, I used emery cloth to brighten the anode mating surface on the thrusters and cleaned the threads for the new bolt.

The Sidepower documentation says to use “thread sealer” on the bolts to keep them from backing out. I could see no evidence that thread sealer was used on the bolts I removed. For those who have done this job, did you use Loctite on the bolts?
 
I've changed mine out quite a few times, never used Locktite, haven't lost one yet.
 
Howdy y'all. I learned years ago when dealing with salt water, there's a tube of an aluminum grease that will sit in raw water 10 years and release the way it should. It's called Permatex. One tube will last a lifetime--you only need a LITTLE bit. Put a dollop on the underside of the screwhead between the anode and the screw and when you're all done another dollop inside the hex head opening after you snugged her up. Be careful not to put any on the threads going into the motor, where the Locktite should be. It saves a multitude of headaches!

Joe Lane - Nixie R25 Classic
 
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