Replace T handle Primary fuel filter with a Racor? (Can I?)

Someday*

Someday*

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2021
Messages
214
Fluid Motion Model
C-30 CB
Hull Identification Number
2909
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Yellowfin 24
Vessel Name
Scotian
The existing Primary or Pre Fuel filter on my R29 is the solid metal one with the T handle on top.
Checking for water in the filter is a pain as you have to unscrew the bottom drain plug and catch the drainage with something to see if there is any water in it.

Can I replace that filter with a Racor one that has the clear plastic bottom one? That way I can visually check for water and drain it easily with the built in drain valve.

Like this:
https://www.jmesales.com/racor-200-seri ... a8QAvD_BwE
 
yes, no reason why you couldn't. The Volvo one uses racor/parker filters... not a bad idea in general... i might consider the same on my C30.
 
The D4-300 in my R-31 (same as the R-29) shows a max fuel burn of 15 GPH on the Volvo display. The D4-320 might burn a bit more at WOT, but 30 GPH should still be fine.

Either way a good idea to see water before it comes into the next fuel filter that's on the engine block.

The one dbsea linked looks like it might be a bit cleaner to replace the filter though, thaht alone is probably worth the additional cost
 
The concern I would have here would be in the case of an engine room fire. Haven't researched it myself.
 
Maybe the concern is the plastic bottom melting? The hoses are rubber, so all bets are off in a fire.
 
Another option might be to install a drain valve in the bottom of the all metal filter. I did that, and it is an easy way to drain the filter or draw a small amount of fuel from the bottom of the filter to check for water or other contaminants. I have used it less than I thought I might — my local fuel sources are reliable and condensation in my tank hasn’t been a problem. If water in your fuel is a chronic problem, the clear bowl would be an easier way to check for water on a daily-use basis.

Here’s one possible source for the drain valve. [https://discountracor.com/shop/acc...od plumbing supply house for much less. Gini
 
Gini - does the existing filter housing have a thread already for this?
 
Watson1987, the answer is yes. On my Racor 500MAM, there are two plug bolts at the bottom. One is at the very bottom of the filter, dead center. The Racor schematic calls it a “Bowl contaminant brass drain plug 1/4 -18 NPT”. There is a second larger bolt that is slightly off-center and a bit (1” or so) higher. The schematic marks it as an “optional water port” plugged with a “1/2 20 steel plug”. The lower, smaller, centered plug is where the Racor drain valve (spigot) taps in.

Gini
 
If you want to have a transparent bowl you must have the spark deflector or fire shield installed. This is the metal ring that mounts to the bottom of the bowl. This stainless steel ring is to protect the plastic bowl from heat. It is required when the filter housing is located in a machinery compartment. Racor does make a valve that replaced the drain plug. This valve can be threaded into the bottom of the bowl housing. The drain plug that is removed from the bottom of the housing is then threaded into the bottom of the drain plug for a safety. It does not need to be thread sealed it is just a safety. This makes checking for water easier. The one issue with using this method is it requires bleeding the filter housing by loosening the top cover to bleed all the air out of the housing so that the filter will be fully used. If the filter housing is not bleed the fuel level will only go has high as the " out " port of the filter housing. This leaves some of the filter cartage unused. It does not stop the fuel from passing or cause air in the system. It just reduces the amount of filter element surface to be used.

I have Racor 500 series filters in my Mainship 34 Pilot. I have filter housings with the fire shield. It was difficult for me to see the bottom of the bowl for debris with the shields installed and the location that the filters were located. I removed the shields and placed them outside the machinery compartment in a location that was easier to get to and see. I also removed the T -handles and installed vacuum gauges on each filter. I can now easily check for water or debris in the bowl and the filter condition during my daily engine checks. No guessing or messing with draining.
 
+1 on replacing the standard T handle with a vacuum gauge.

Gini
 
Gin":2o6vcya1 said:
+1 on replacing the standard T handle with a vacuum gauge.

Gini
Click to expand...
How does that work? (ie what does it tell you?)
 
I totally defer to others on an accurate description of how it works. My non-technical explanation is that, as your filter gets dirty and clogged, it requires more suction for the fuel pump to pull fuel into the engine. The vacuum gauge on the filter measures that suction. There is a needle on the gauge that shows you the highest amount of suction that it has registered. The gauge is also marked with yellow and red zones so you can tell if the vacuum is getting excessive. If it hits red, change the filter. And if it is yellow or approaching it, at least check the filter, and possibly change it as well.

That's how I understand it. I'm counting on others for a better explanation!

Gini
 
Gini, Good description ! I will add to yours.

There are two filters used in the Tug/Cut fuel systems with Cummins, Yanmar and Volvo.

The Racor is the Primary filter. The primary filter is normally coarser filtering 10 micron. It filters debris and water that is picked up from the tank. It is a pre-filter for the fuel system and and also protects the lift pump, electric or mechanical from damage due to contaminated fuel. The Racor is on the suction side of the lift pump.

The secondary filter is the filter mounted on the engine. It is normally engine manufacture specific. The filter used at the secondary on most common rail Diesels ( Volvo and Yanmar ) is a finer filter usually rated at 2 micron. This filter is on the discharge side of the Lift pump (fuel pump) and it's purpose is to remove any residual water that passed through the primary and to remove extremely small particles that could damage the high pressure injector pump and the injectors.

Primary = suction side
Secondary = discharge side of the pump

Racor filter without a gauge relies on the captain to determine the condition of the filter element. If the fuel tank and fuel system are clean and all fuel that is pumped into the fuel tank is clean. Filter inspections are done as preventative on a manufactures recommended interval. If contamination gets into the tank this could create an unknown event. Example: The boat is under way and a power loss is experienced or in worse case the engine dies when making way, under way. The only way for the captain to know if the filter is fouled is by inspecting the bowl and removing the filter for inspection.

Racor filter with a gauge gives the captain a good reasonable condition of the filter element. The gauge has three needles to read. (1) The present needle. This is set based on what the engine manufacture determine what the highest vacuum should be without harming the pump or engine performance. Normal setting is 8in mg to 10in mg. The (2) needle is the telltale. This needle can be zeroed after each day or left alone until the needle reaches a higher than normal vacuum reading. The telltale needle is moved by the (3) needle, This is the gauge needle that reads actual real time operating vacuum and moves needle (2) to the maximum reading and that needle stays in that position until the captain resets it. Vacuums can change based on engine speed and pump speed. The engine is using more fuel when at 3000rpm when compared to 1800 rpm so the vacuum can increase even if the filter is clean. This maximum value should be known and recorded when a new filter element is installed. This gives the captain a reference as to a start point with a clean filter.

My use of the vacuum gauge. I set the max needle (1) to 9in mg, I reset the telltale to zero when I have a new filter element installed. I run the engine at max WOT on the first day with new filter element. When I end the day of cruising I check the telltale reading. I record this value. This is the total vacuum created by the fuel system with a clean filter with maximum engine fuel flow. This value on my boat is 2in mg to 3 in mg is normal but I always check to make sure there are no other restrictions that have developed in the fuel system.

Examples: collapse fuel line hose, kinks, fuel valve position moved or not opened completely, full pick up obstructed.

Once I have determined the fuel system is operating at normal values I reset the telltale needle to zero and then monitor it when I do engine checks.

If and when I do see a increase of vacuum reading of 4 to 6 in mg I reset the needle and operate the engine for a cruising day and recheck the gauge. If the value returns to the elevated reading again it is time to inspect the filter, drain and replace the element.

The gauge can be used to troubleshoot the fuel system condition. Just because the gauge reads a high vacuum does not always mean that the reading is cause from a fouled filter. Normally it is but as I stated previously the can be other factors that can contribute to a fouled fuel system.

I believe a vacuum gauge should be standard equipment with diesel fuel systems.
 
Thanks everyone!
 
Brian, I was hoping you would jump in on this one. Thanks for all that info. I learned lots. Including the tip to run at WOT after a filter change and mark the position of the telltale needle afterwards. Perfect timing on your response. I wrapped up my annual maintenance over the weekend, which included new filters, and am taking the boat out this afternoon. I will record the reading afterwards. Thanks!

Gini
 
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