Replacing solar panel on 2013 R31 to free up deck space

pickles

Active member
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
32
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 SC
Hull Identification Number
FMLT3122G
Hi

Not happy on the amount of deck space the solar panel takes up on the CB. Was going to change the mounting so that it folds up the panel (against the railing) when required. Now have changed direction after seeing a recent video, am thinking I can replace the panel with a ‘semi’ flexible panel (or indeed panels) mounted on some of my canvas. Am all good with the canvas work but have not looked at the electrical considerations yet. So before jumping on and researching that wanted to see if anybody had already done something similar and therefore steal that knowledge.

All the best
Pickles
 
I replaced mine with 2 semi flexible 50 watt panels. they fit on the empty spots between the windows and one on top of the little area above the door. i used a Y connector to connect both of them up . They are unnoticeable unless your looking directly on top of the boat .
 
Hi hughesdave123

Thanks for the reply. Have you the details of the make and spec of the panels you used. Also did this swap require any other component change or was it just a straight swap?

Many thanks
Pickles
 
Hello Pickles,

If you decide to remove your panel, I might be interested in it. This is our first season with our 2009 29', so still getting to know what we need. Another panel might be on a future wish list. We're in Massachusetts, so I could pick it up.

Chris
 
I removed my panel then added a Thule box. I then attached the panel to the top of the Thule. Works well for us so far


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Finally finished (almost...just got to tidy the wiring) removing the old solar panel and mounted two semi-flexible 100W panels on the rear Bimini .
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Will you have any problem with water ponding on panel/canvas
 
Not so far … I installed a stainless eyelet to allow excess water to drain immediately below the central point of each panel, plus the panels are centered on the overhang of the upper deck…so offrset from the centerline. Difficult to see in the picture, but there a slant to starboard so water sheets off that way.

Thanks
Pickles
 
Thanks. I like it. We really need more roof storage
 
So what it your procedure if and when you need to remove the bimini? Do you have some type of quick disconnects for the wires?
 
Hi
The wiring is using MC4 connections rather than hard-wired. So these easily disconnect, the panels are secured using Push Buttons. The way the bimini folds means the panels collapse in two folds aiding the removal. Probably takes a bout an extra minute to remove the panels. I wish I could take the credit for this design but it is from a how to video from Sailriite.
 
Thinking of removing/re-configuring the panel off our '13 R31CB as well to have more usable space up top. Lucky that the boat lives in a boathouse, and tend to use that area/racks for paddle boards when in transit. Any recommendations on disconnecting it and potential connectors/caps to use for when it is off?
 
Great info/ideas gang. In the short term given vs. just removing, I like the idea of storing the panel vertically on the rail with the ability to fold it up into a working position if desired. Any ideas of hardware to do that? Don't think mounting in the middle with something like this makes sense https://hamiltonferris.com/products/Sol ... _Mounts/44

Rather having the mounts at the top of the panel and some way to fold the panel up from vertical to horizontal (or even better the best angle to the sun) with some sort of (adjustable) supports?.
 
Hey gang - going to remove the existing solar panel today and setup to be removable. What/where would I disconnect on the boat/system side before disconnecting. Boat is a boathouse with no direct sunlight.
 
If you decide to mount the solar panels to the rails, Magma mounts work well, too.
I used this technique for a prior sailboat and with the mounts about 1/3 of the width of the panel, they had no trouble keeping the panels in whatever angle is put them in, even with the boat underway.

But, remember that on our tugs more weight up high, or weight hanging off the side of the boat will adversely affect stability at anchor. I wasn't so concerned about this on a sailboat with 8,000# of lead in the keel.
 
FreeSoup":h3hcg797 said:
Hey gang - going to remove the existing solar panel today and setup to be removable. What/where would I disconnect on the boat/system side before disconnecting. Boat is a boathouse with no direct sunlight.

With any light (direct or not) at all on the panel you may get a spark when disconnecting the panel or controller. Cover your panel with a blanket before disconnecting and when reconnecting.

Curt
 
FreeSoup":1q5sw6oy said:
Hey gang - going to remove the existing solar panel today and setup to be removable. What/where would I disconnect on the boat/system side before disconnecting. Boat is a boathouse with no direct sunlight.

Was able to figure this out via the solar system manual. We pulled the 30amp fuses, then disconnected. Nice to have the extra space up top, and light through the hatch below. Will work through our next steps and share, cheers!

-D
 

Hey all,
So need to get creative about enlarging and/or slightly moving the hole, hoping to change out to this plug. What's under/behind the blue area? Was surprised there wasn't much/any play with the wires. Was hoping not to pull the blue part.
 
Thanks Curt for the safety input.

Giving up on the flush mount connector, seems tight behind the blue part. Was about to wire up connectors just for the panel to be removable, but since I have some flexible solar panels that roll out nicely on the back on the back canvas, trying to figure out the best/right way to have options of 1.) Just the original panel, 2.) original panel plus the flexibles, and possibly 3.) just the flexible panels. Could research/learn, but would rather "cheat" with some experts here...
 
FreeSoup,

Ideally the panels would all be the same model when connecting them in parallel. Not a requirement though if the specs are similar. In this case the specs are similar but I can’t say if they are close enough. The voltage is what is important. I recommend you reach out to the supplier where you got the flexible panel and ask what they think about adding them in parallel with the Kyocera panel.

The standard Morningstar controller should be able to handle all three as the flexible panels produce only 3 amps each and the Kyocera is around 10, The controller will handle around 25 amps from my recollection.

Curt
 
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