Replacing thruster zincs/anodes

baz

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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Subject: Replacing thruster zincs/anodes

I've always had my thruster anodes replaced by a diver service. I'm now keeping my R-21EC on the hard at my house. So I plan on doing the underwater anode maintenance myself. The thruster props are kind of embedded in the bow and wonder if special tools might be needed to access the bolts that secure the thruster anodes.

What tool(s) are needed to access and maintain the thruster anodes ?

Thanks.... 🙂
 
Hi Barry:

If the bow thruster is anything like our R27 then you'll need a long handled allen wrench (size I'm not sure) to loosen the nut that holds the zinc. I've found the bow thruster zinc on our R27 doesn't just fall off after the nut is released. I've had to spray WD40, tap it lightly and use a set of pliers to get it loose and off.....I hope yours is much easier. Congratulations on the R21 purchase.....I'm assuming it's new to you since you sold Laxey?

Jim F
 
Thanks Jim.... As I suspected a long handle wrench will be needed. I've several of those so will need to know how long to know if I need to go out and buy a longer one, and also the mm or inch size it needs to be. 🙂 The WD40 and tapping is good advice... thanks. 🙂
 
I use, on my R25, a stubbly ratcheting screwdriver type handle with the appropriate bit on it. It fits in my hand and I can reach it OK. Got the set at Home Depot for like 10 bucks complete with bits and extensions and even some sockets.... made by Husky. I have a small pair of vice grips that grab the zinc and I rock it off the mount.....changed the back ones too!
 
I spray some PB blaster the night before. Take out the center allen screw as described above. I use a long handle slotted screwdriver and tap around the perimeter of the zinc. Then with a small needle nose I put one Jaw in the center ( not too far in as to ruin the threads) and one jaw to grab the outside and wiggle. It usually comes out. However sometimes I have had to revert to using the slotted long handled screwdriver and hit the zinc to split it to come off. Don't forget to clean the end with emery cloth before installing the new zinc so that you get good connectivity.
 
On my R27 I have a plumber's tool, the one for loosening the nuts at the top of your household sink. It easily reaches in and loosens the zinc on the bow thruster once you have removed the allen head nut. Works like a charm.
 
What size is the allen key bit ? Metric or Standard size ? Thanks... 🙂
 
baz":31e5oynp said:
What size is the allen key bit ? Metric or Standard size ? Thanks... 🙂

Checking my spare, the thruster anode uses a 4mm or 5/32" hex key. I haven't changed mine so can't say what length T-handle wrench works.

Dave
 
Downey, you made my day. I wrestled with getting the old thruster zincs off for over 4 hours. I tried hub pullers, hammers, wrenches, etc.
The screws were no problem. I used a screw driver with allen attachment and 1/4" ratchet receiver on the handle. Easy leverage.
I read your post, went out and bought the basin wrench you described and had both old zincs off in minutes.

Best tool for the job, thanks!
 
trailertrawlerkismet":kwrw6nzn said:
Hi Barry:

If the bow thruster is anything like our R27 then you'll need a long handled allen wrench (size I'm not sure) to loosen the nut that holds the zinc. I've found the bow thruster zinc on our R27 doesn't just fall off after the nut is released. I've had to spray WD40, tap it lightly and use a set of pliers to get it loose and off.....I hope yours is much easier. Congratulations on the R21 purchase.....I'm assuming it's new to you since you sold Laxey?

Jim F

I'm a bit puzzled about the term "nut" as on my R-25 the bow thruster's anode was secured with a bolt and not a nut. Also, if care not taken for inspecting the thruster anode this bolt can be exposed to corrosion that destroys its male threads and the female threads inside the end of the thruster's axle.
 
I'm a bit puzzled about the term "nut"

Yes of course it's a bolt, I was so eager to describe the plumber's wrench I lost my mind 😳
As for size it's a 4mm, I didn't need a long tee handle, I bought a set of fold out metric allen wrenches and they work fine.
I have replaced mine 3 times and always use a little locktite on the bolt.
 
downey":3hwbqheh said:
I'm a bit puzzled about the term "nut"

Yes of course it's a bolt, I was so eager to describe the plumber's wrench I lost my mind 😳
As for size it's a 4mm, I didn't need a long tee handle, I bought a set of fold out metric allen wrenches and they work fine.
I have replaced mine 3 times and always use a little locktite on the bolt.

Hello Mark,

You get a PASS on this slip of tongue/keyboard (bolt vs nut) since the statute of limitations has passed on your five month old post. If it takes that long for someone to speak up about an error, well, YOU can't be held responsible.

This is ALL tongue-in-cheek since I can't find the right emoticon ...

dave
 
I was referring to Jim Favors posting. :roll:
 
Here's a trick I use. Use the allen wrench to remove the bolt, then stick the allen wrench into the bolt hole (through the zinc) and push down. The zinc pops right off with no fuss, no extra tools or sprays required.
 
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