Replacing VHF Antenna and cable

[jwatson000]

I recently broke my Shakespeare 5101 antenna and I need to replace it.

My first thought was to simply replace it with another similar part and route the cable all the way back to the radio. I found how the cable on my R-23 comes on on the starboard aft part of the cabin, then runs forward about midway and down past the porthole window with some speaker cables and other stuff. From there I can't figure out how it gets down and forward under the VHF radio, which is mounted directly forward of the throttle. I tried going in through the fuse panels in the aft wall of the head, but the radio is about a foot lower than that can reach. Perhaps I have to remove the wood paneling from the aft wall of the head? Does anyone know how to get to the back of the VHF radio?

My other thought was simply to splice on a new antenna. I could perform the splice in the area inside the boat near the porthole. That might actually be much easier. Any advice from folks who've done this?

 

[glider4]

Just splice it with a BNC connector. Super EZ. No impact on signal strength if done well by a professional like we used. We did a significant upgrade in the new antenna so that helped too - a Shakespeare 5225XT Galaxy VHF Antenna (8-Feet) with a new base.

 

[Nwdiver]

Splicing antenna cables should be avoided if at all possible. Any impedance change can cause a loss of sensitivity and feedback when transmitting. There are ways to splice using connectors designed specifically for that, but unless you have experience, don’t do it yourself, it’s really easy to mess up. I was a professional (retired) and I got it correct about 70% of the time, but I had access to the equipment to verify it was correct.

Ed
Amateur radio call sign KC7ZBI

 

[wa7pug]

I do not think I would use a BNC connector - you might do better to use a male and female N connector (look on ham radio pages and you can order from Amazon or Ham Radio Outlet, bigger than BNC and has screw threads, etc.) or two N males and a female/female barrel, but pay attention to the instructions - even better for you to look at youtube videos on how to do it, OR get a friend who is a ham radio operator to do it for you. Solder connections preferred for long term robustness.
Depending on what part of antenna failed, some are screw out of base and replace that way (like a Shakespear) and then lately seems to be all kinds of variants.
One thing to consider when making N connector splices that might be exposed to moisture - I always put silicone grease (NOT the adhesive) in the connector before screwing it together. The grease is dielectric and if it is in there when you tighten it up, water cannot come into the connector. You will have to wipe it off afterward, but definitely worth the trouble. Also, tighten it pretty firm. The dielectric grease will also prevent galling of the threads.
There are probably a lot of hams on this forum ... no doubt someone is closer to you than you think who can help you with this. You can also just google your local ham radio club and get address for in your town, and then reach out to them - am pretty sure you will have to fend them off ....

 

[watson1987]

I used these last year to replace a bad end on my cable when I installed my AIS TX. It was easy and worked great. I later tested with an SWR meter and was well within spec with no signal loss

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VW ... UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8 ... UTF8&psc=1

 

[SgtAlf]

I cut the connector off my old antenna wire. Taped paracord to the old wire. Pulled out the old, attached the paracord to the new and pulled it back through.

 

[scross]

SgtAlf,
If only it were so easy!
The zip ties on the cable/wire bundles on our former 2009 R-25 Classic were uniformly so tight as it was impossible to pull any of the old cables or wires through them. Compounding the tight tie wraps were numerous “working loops” of extra cable and wire which also frustrated just pulling a paracord or anything else through the run. The only way to replace or add new fore and aft cable/wire runs was to take everything apart and fish through new cable or wire. A very difficult and time consuming process. Took me over 8 hours to fish through a new RJ-45 from the port battery to the port v-berth several years ago.

 

[Wenchris21]

Just did mine 2 days ago. Remove 3 screws holding teak piece above stove and window. Remove SS clamshell where wire enters fiberglass up by antenna and dig out old 3M caulk. Cut old wire by old antenna and tape new wire to old wire. Two people are better now. One out and one in. One pushes outside one pulls gently inside. When you pull all you need, leave enough outside as before. Person out comes in and jams themself under sink cabinet. Find old antenna wire and gently pull as other person feeds wire thru porthole wire chase. When all wire is down in the sink area, remove radio by pulling straight up. It’s just jammed in there. Unscrew antenna wire from back of radio and gently pull as person under sink feeds. Solder new connection on and put it back together. Simple on my 2019 R23.
Good luck Jimmy

 

[bchristie]

I have a 2014 Cutwater 28; has anyone pulled new antenna cable through to the VHF radio on this model and if so, how did you do it?

 

[DBBRanger]

Splicing antenna cables should be avoided if at all possible. ......... it’s really easy to mess up. I was a professional (retired) and I got it correct about 70% of the time, but I had access to the equipment to verify it was correct.
I

Ed, I am not splicing a cable, rather I'm simply installing a new antenna so all I have to do is solder the end connector. Do the issues you refer to also happen when soldering that connection? I don't have a SWR meter to check it, but if I did and the meter indicated a problem, what would I do? Resolder? Is the soldering process that touchy? I didn't solder the wire mesh, I just used the two washers that were in the package but I believe I did a good job at soldering the center wire. I'm land locked at the moment so I can't do a radio check to see if all is well! Also, the reviews on cheaper SWR meters (<$40) aren't too good so I hesitate to go that route and I don't want to spend a fortune either. Can you give me any advice?

 

[Nwdiver]

Hopefully you used PL-259 or better connectors. I’m not a fan of the connectors that you don’t solder the braid, they have a tendency to corrode over time (years). That said, if it’s not shorted or open (ohm meter tests) and the new connector is inside the boat there shouldn’t be much of a risk. Just do periodic radio checks to keep an eye on it

Ed

 

[DBBRanger]

Hopefully you used PL-259 or better connectors. I’m not a fan of the connectors that you don’t solder the braid, they have a tendency to corrode over time (years). That said, if it’s not shorted or open (ohm meter tests) and the new connector is inside the boat there shouldn’t be much of a risk. Just do periodic radio checks to keep an eye on it

Ed

Thanks Ed for the response. I did use the Pl -259 connector that came with the antenna. I'll just cross my fingers and hope that eventually radio checks prove all is OK!