Has anyone installed a Rocna or Vulcan anchor on the C32? If so, which size fit? Looking at the Vulcan 12 kg model, I was a bit concerned the windlass wouldn't be able to handle the additional weight of the 15 kg. Thanks!
Rocna or Vulcan Fit on C32
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summer wind
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I changed to the Rocna MkII 15 last summer on my C30. Perfect fit without any modifications. The windless is a bit hesitant when pulling it up, but not because of the weight, but the increased bite into the bottom makes it hard to break. I have to use the engine when muddy or dense. The plus is no more anchor dragging.
RobMcClain
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I also changed over to a Rocna 15 on my C30. It fit fine with no modification. I included a Mantus swivel too and it fit with ~2” to spare.
RobMcClain
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I have no anchor guard for my Rocna 15, had no need for it.
abastos
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My C-30 came with a Rocna 15 and 250ft of 5/16"galvanized chain. Windlass handles well and the anchor + chain really holds. 100% happy so far. I am using the anchor ~2 times a week during the warm days at Lake Washington (Andrews Bay or Cozy Cove), depth ~25-30ft.
SKing
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How does the extra weight affect the trim on your boat? The previous owner did the Rocna and 115' of chain. I have been thinking of changing it to 250' because after it pays out and I'm on the rode the boat swings all over in the wind. When I happen to anchor in shallower depths and am all chain, with the bridal it becomes way more stable.
atruckenbrodt
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I have the Rocna 15 and 250 ft of chain plus rode. The trim of the boat is fine because our boats are stern-heavy anyway. Chain and rode fit into the anchor "lockers" on both sides of the windlass but you have to flake the chain all the time because of the missing depth of the lockers. No swivel required because the anchor always turns into the right direction coming up. Very happy with this setup.
abastos
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Like Andreas said before, I don't feel any difference in the boat behavior. C30 is stern heavy, so no problem getting on plane. When I got the boat, I thought it would be an issue, but after riding few times, I see it doesn't impact performance. Anchoring with a big Rocna 15 and 250ft of chain seems very straightforward, the anchor and chain holds very well at the bottom.
Andreas also provided the right guidance, the chain locker is not deep enough to accommodate all the chain under the windlass, so you need to use one hand to place the chain across both sides of the locker, avoiding the chain getting jammed under the windlass. Once you understand that, you can retrieve the anchor easily. Overall I am very very happy with the setup.
Andreas also provided the right guidance, the chain locker is not deep enough to accommodate all the chain under the windlass, so you need to use one hand to place the chain across both sides of the locker, avoiding the chain getting jammed under the windlass. Once you understand that, you can retrieve the anchor easily. Overall I am very very happy with the setup.
Cutwater28GG
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The real challenge for the windlass isnt the weight of the anchor but the weight of all the chain if its hanging free in deeper water.
abastos
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sorry for my dumb question ... I am still learning how to operate my boat. After dropping and anchor and confirming it is holding, I use a line passing through the chain and tie it in the cleats. I do that with the intention to alleviate any unnecessary pressure from the windlass. Is this a right thing to do? Am I creating a new problem? (I know you are referring to the time that the anchor is hanging with the chain, but it reminded me to ask this question)
After retrieving the anchor, I also lock it with a line, to avoid any accidental deployment (my anchor also has a metal thing, I dont know the name, that blocks the deployment).
Thanks for any advice.
Alex
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SKing
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Alex,
Search for "rolling hitch anchor snubber" lots of different videos and opinions but you will be able to do the version that works for your situation. If your not venturing weeks from home it's unlikely you will be out in heavy wind at night. So just start practicing different methods and when you need to step up your game you'll have the experience to handle anchoring in windy areas or try a stern tie etc..
Search for "rolling hitch anchor snubber" lots of different videos and opinions but you will be able to do the version that works for your situation. If your not venturing weeks from home it's unlikely you will be out in heavy wind at night. So just start practicing different methods and when you need to step up your game you'll have the experience to handle anchoring in windy areas or try a stern tie etc..
abastos
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Thank you!
Cutwater28GG
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You should always take the load off the windlass at anchor and tie the anchor rode to a cleat. a Rolling hitch method is the easiest in my book. as. I just use a dockline thats already at the bow.
I confess to forgetting this knot and use animated knots website on the phone as a reminder when setting it up.
You can buy an anchor bridle, but it's not necessary.
side note, remember to add the height from the water to your bow roller to your scope calculations. Therefore water depth at high water + height from water to bow roller multiplied by typically 5.
e.g. high water depth 25ft + 7 ft = 32 ft x5 = 160feet of rode out. for 5:1 scope.
The most important thing for good anchoring is the catenary effect from a long rode. not the heaviest anchor.
I confess to forgetting this knot and use animated knots website on the phone as a reminder when setting it up.
You can buy an anchor bridle, but it's not necessary.
side note, remember to add the height from the water to your bow roller to your scope calculations. Therefore water depth at high water + height from water to bow roller multiplied by typically 5.
e.g. high water depth 25ft + 7 ft = 32 ft x5 = 160feet of rode out. for 5:1 scope.
The most important thing for good anchoring is the catenary effect from a long rode. not the heaviest anchor.