RT 27 2016 Rudder not moving

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Walker2022

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Joined
Apr 24, 2022
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Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2722K516
Hello.
We cannot steer our boat. The steering has been drained twice. Thinking something with the smart pump. Where would the bypass valve be? Any ideas? Thanks!
 
Your facts about the issue are a bit cryptic. Without much info this could be a stupid question, but did you check to make sure the linkage is connected? They have been known to come loose if not tightened during a periodic maintenance.
 
Walker2022":2wghkwux said:
Hello.
We cannot steer our boat. The steering has been drained twice. Thinking something with the smart pump. Where would the bypass valve be? Any ideas? Thanks!

How did you purge the air from the system after refilling?

We just completed the steering bypass valve retrofit. It took the Garmin rep almost two hours and one unsuccessful sea trial to get all the air out of the steering fluid. He was using a specifically designed pump system to do it. He said it could be done manually but it would take even longer. But after watching the process he went through, I cannot imagine the time and effort it would take. The steering system is very sensitive to any air in it. Ours was not right with just a few pinhead size bubbles!

He mounted the bypass valve next to the autopilot steering pump. It is a small black box (about 4x4x1 inches) and has three hoses attached.
 
American Flyer, I believe you are referring to a check valve. This is used to block the back pressure on the auto pilot pump valves.
To bypass the autopilot pump turn the three screws, located on the pump manifold, all the way in. This should improve the manual steering but your autopilot will not work.
American Flyer is correct, this black, or silver, box , called a check valve, will solve the problem if the autopilot pump is to blame. By turning in these three screws you should be able to determine if this is the problem.
As others have mentioned above, make sure your fluid levels are full and the system has been properly bleed, (no bubbles), before deciding if you need a check valve or have a bad pump.
I have a picture identifying the screws and the check valve but unfortunately can not get it to post to this site.
I have a photo in my album but am unable to edit it with drawings. PM me and I will send it by email.
None of this may apply if you do have an operational Smartpump.
Terry
 
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