Sea Strainer Cleaning

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Sea Leggs

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Feb 2, 2021
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Fluid Motion Model
C-30 S
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2935E818
Vessel Name
Black Crab
The Sea Strainer on my 2018 RT 29 S is different than what is in my Volvo Manual. I want to clean it but am unsure how to take the top off. It is made of brass and has a square inset in the top which looks like a ratchet head would go in to allow you to turn it. And has 2 prongs which look like you could put a heavy duty bar between and then twist. What is the proper way to open it?

Thanks
 
Sounds like what we have on our C30. Just grab the two prongs and unscrew as usual (counterclockwise). If that's too tight, them I use a screwdriver between the prongs to get leverage.

The tricky part is to get the basket to seat back all the way down to rescrew the top!
 
Also close the sea strainer valve to keep sea water from flooding your bilge, but you probably already knew that. After you clean the sea strainer and before you reinstall, I find it a good idea to open the seacock momentarily to see that water is coming into the strainer properly. If not you know you’ve got debris in the inlet hose that would need to be addressed.

Jim
 
Consider also lubing the o-rings.

Last summer, I decided to check my strainer after going through some shallow areas with a group of other boaters when we were exploring the sloughs of the lower Columbia. The bronze top started to come off, then bound up and wouldn’t budge. I recruited two of my boating friends, one of whom is young and strong, and the other of whom is a savvy old salt who seems to understand all things mechanical about boats. They tried a stout breaker bar across the bronze tabs, but it didn’t budge. The savvy old salt felt sure that the o-ring was dry and had compressed into the threads. I found it hard to believe an o-ring could be the cause. I feared I had cross-threaded it somehow. He and my other friend finally freed it through gentle coercion — about 20 minutes of using a ping hammer to tap first on one bronze tab, then the other, to get the top to turn evenly in very small increments. Off it came, with the bronze threads perfectly in tact. We were lucky: at the time, we were in Astoria where there was an excellent fully stocked chandlery within walking distance which had o-rings of just about every size on the planet. I got a replacement o-ring on the spot, and of course, a couple of spares as well.

I think what happened was similar to the issue described in this thread: http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15326&p=101362&hilit=sea+strainer#p101362

I had a different o-ring issue this last December. I was mid-way through the 3 week period of Christmas Ship parading when I began to notice a small amount of water under the strainer during my day checks of the engine and all fluids. I reached out to someone at the factory (Tim, probably), who pointed me to a small drain plug at the base of the see through bowl. He said it was a likely source of the leak, and could need (a) tightening; (b) a new o-ring; or (c) a new bowl (it isn’t common, but the plastic bowl can crack due to very cold weather, etc). In my case, I closed the sea cock, drained the bowl, lubed the o-ring, and tightened it up. Problem solved.

The experience caused me to get a full complement of replacement parts (o-rings, drain plug, plastic bowl) and keep them in my stock of spare parts. Fisheries Supply carries them. Lubing those o-rings is also now on my list of things to do regularly.

Gini
 
What do you use to clean and lube your O-rings? If they are made of rubber, they could be degraded by petroleum products, or dried out and hardened by alcohol products. Does anyone know what material the O-rings are made of?
 
O-ring silicone lubricant - can be purchased at any local hardware store. Bob
 
I used this for the o-rings on both my on airplane and now on the boat. Seems to work well. I think most silicone based lubricants would work. Don’t use Vaseline!
Super Lube 56204 O-Ring Silicone Lubricant, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3CZ9CL/re ... UTF8&psc=1
 
In the thread I linked to in my earlier post, Brian explained that most o-rings are NOT made of rubber, precisely because rubber does not stand up to petroleum. I took some comfort in that info, because only Vasoline was available when I needed to unexpectedly replace mine on the sea strainer. When I balked at using Vasoline (which I had been coached not to do), some of my boating buddies assured me it was fine. Two of them (both earn their livings in and around all kinds of boats) are boaters I have deep trust for. They have never steered me wrong on anything. Both said they have used Vasoline for many years on all standard o-rings on their boats and the boats they work on, and I shouldn't sweat it. Brian's post helped me better understand why.

That said, I still use silicone o-ring grease and keep some aboard all the time now. Belt and suspenders, maybe. I like to avoid problems entirely whenever possible. But if anyone ever needs to use Vasoline in a pinch, you should be able to without losing sleep.

Gini
 
scross":3tmfchvt said:
I used this for the o-rings on both my on airplane and now on the boat. Seems to work well. I think most silicone based lubricants would work. Don’t use Vaseline!
Super Lube 56204 O-Ring Silicone Lubricant, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3CZ9CL/re ... UTF8&psc=1

This is spot on. Super lube is the only thing you should be using on o-rings (just not silicone ones, which it’s unlikely you are dealing with except in high temp applications or by accident).
 
Thanks everyone. Valuable info as I will be attempting the cleaning of the strainer this weekend.
 
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