We considered the same thing when we were planning for our extended cruising in Alaska (four month trip). It’s ironic because the Ranger model that you (and we) have is one of the very few that is supplied by the factory with fresh water flush. Most of the people who want to convert are going the other direction—from salt water to fresh. We thought about converting over and then I figured if I was going to go to that trouble, I should go a little further and make it so we could have the option of either one. Fresh water does keep the head cleaner and fresher smelling. (We also had a previous boat with salt water flush.)
It is certainly a matter of personal preference. If you do convert over, remember to put some “insurance” in the system, like a normally closed solenoid that shuts off the water. If the switch that calls for water gets stuck in the “on” position (or a hose clamp comes loose) and you are using fresh water, all it will do is empty your fresh water tank (water that was was already aboard), it won’t sink the boat. The seawater inlet, if you are using an on-demand pump like the fresh water heads use, has an inexhaustible supply.
In our case, I went so far as to get a back of the envelope drawing from a marine sanitation shop on a suggested configuration. In the end, we kept what we have and are happy we did. I figured we could just keep a small bucket of seawater in the head for manual flushing when we needed to conserve water and that would be a lot less trouble than replumbing. Turns out that we didn’t even feel a need to do that.
When feeling a need to conserve water, we learned to push both buttons above the toilet simultaneously for a flush and then push the left one to put a little water back in the bowl. This does not clean the bowl as well as a full automatic flush but then neither does seawater. Remember too that if you are cruising in the US, your holding tank rather than your water tank may be the limiting factor. Wherever you go for a pumpout you can usually take on fresh water nearby.
John