Smaller table for Banjo

[golftrek]

We are both tall people and we found that the original table on Banjo was too large. We could not sit comfortably at the table nor could we easily pass each other when walking in front of the table. So we had a local carpenter make us a new table that is both shorter and narrower. The new table is made of teak veneer and is 29 inches from the wall and 36 inches from bow to stern. We did not include the raised edge on the table as we found it unnecessary and uncomfortable.

The bed cannot be made with the new table so we are keeping the old bed in storage in case a future purchaser wants it.

It is amazing how much larger the interior of the boat seems with the smaller table.

Jim and Jo Ann
Banjo
2008 R 25

 

[JamesTXSD]

I understand the manufacturer's desire to "up the advertised sleeping capacity", but it sure seems that most of us with boats this size are cruising couples. I would think the manufacturers could improve on the ergonomics by offering a "family truckster" model and a "cozy couple" model. The table in our boat is bigger than it needs to be and the seating is compromised by the concern to make the area into a berth. Or, trying to seat more at the table.

Your new table looks great and, no doubt, works better for your use. Kudos!

Best wishes,
Jim B.

 

[baz]

I like your new table. 🙂 ...and as you mentioned, the extra space it provides.

In considering what you done I think this is an easier task and less expensive than trying to construct a table with a raised leaf as Ranger Tugs has done with the R-27 which has same cabin dimensions as the R-25.

How did you center the new table on the supporting posts ? Did you make it so 18" extended each way from the post's centerline ? For us, this would be ideal as the stock table on our R-25 measures 41" long and at the stern end it's 36.5" deep and at the bow end it's 33.5" deep. It's essentially tapered to aligned with the gangway angle. The stock table is centered such that some 22" extends to the rear from the support post's centerline and some 19" to the front/bow. The 19" is just fine but would like for the 22" to be reduced down to at least 18" as getting up onto the rear seat is kind of difficult plus when seated the table end can stick into your tummy as you lean forward some.

So with the above in mind and considering building a table like yours with similar dimensions I would center it with at least 18" to either side of the supporting posts.

You say your table is teak veneered...

1) So how thick is your new table ?
2) Was teak veneer used on the edges and importantly around the table's two gangway radii ?
3) Maybe the edges were glued on as a bull-nose moulding ?
4) Also, did you employ any kind of support brackets where the table butts up to the cabin wall's monkey fur ? Our table rocks some on its support posts which we find annoying if drinks are on the table.
5) What kind of waterproofing application was applied to the new table's top surface ?
6) Could you take a photo showing how the table is attached to the supporting posts ?

Thanks... 🙂

 

[golftrek]

Gill, I do not know the answer to your questions off the top of my hand (remember we hired an expert carpenter to do the table so we were not involved in the construction). We will be back on the boat in a week or so and I will take a picture of the posts. I think the posts were attached just like the old table. I will also get the dimensions on each side of the posts. We had the carpenter to position the table so that it is slightly behind the copilots seat. The table is very sturdy and does not rock so no other support was needed.

There is very nice teak molding along the edges. The table is not quite as thick as the original table, I will measure the thickness when I am on board. We could have gotten a thicker table, but this increased the price and we did not feel it was needed.

We did not waterproof the table. We use placemats and rubber coasters to protect it. We will use a teak oil on it as needed. The table looks very similar to the other teak on the inside of the boat.

Jim and Jo Ann
Banjo

 

[golftrek]

One thing we forgot to mention, the carpenter made the table as a straight rectangle, it is not tapered as the original was. The tapering is not needed on the smaller table so the construction was simpler, again saving money.

Jim and Jo Ann
Banjo

 

[golftrek]

Another added benefit of the new table is that since the new table weighs considerably less than the old table (which was very heavy) it is easier to balance the boat. Our boat had a slight lean to port due to the heavy table, the generator and the air conditioner being on the port side. This list is much less with the lighter weight new table and we can balance it off by putting some extra water (and the Chapmans book!) on the starboard side. 😀

Jim and Jo Ann
Banjo :

 

[golftrek]

More info and pictures regarding Banjo's new table. The table is centered on the posts so that it is about 18 inches on each side from the post to each of the seat boxes. The table is rectangular but the front corners are rounded. The table does not touch the monkey fur on the port side of the cabin and is slightly behind the co pilots seat when it is flipped over facing forward. There is teak trim all around the table which is glued on. Picture below.

The table is thinner than the old table, the new table is one half inch thick. The trim is a little thicker and sticks out below the table on the bottom. We did not want the trim to be higher on the top because we think that makes the table uncomfortable.

The leg posts are attached like on the old table, but it there is a plastic filler to make the table a little taller for us since we are tall and the new table is thiner than the old table. Picture attached.

If anyone is interested we can put you in touch with the boat carpenter that did the work here in Southport, North Carolina.



Jim and Jo Ann
Banjo
2008 R25
Southport Nc