Solar Panel output measures 0 volts

[adrianmuir]

After a recent cruise I noticed my batteries were not recharging as usual without the engine running. The battery charger display next to the breaker panel shows 0V from the solar panel and putting a meter on the panel terminals on the duo charge controller also reads 0V. The panel does not appear to have removable wiring so it doesn't look possible to check the voltage at the panel itself. I'm guessing the diode in the panel is shot but am I missing something? I removed the cabin head liner to get at leak earlier in the season so I may have disturbed some wiring. I'll look at that next but if it is the panel, any tips on how to run wiring for a new one? I'm assuming there is a join somewhere above the head liner between the cables off the panel and wiring running down to the charge controller and I'd need to check the guage to ensure it was rated for any increase in panel power. Any tips from those who've replace their panels would be welcome.

 

[Eagle 2]

This may not help you with your current panel, I recently put up a post on an install of 2 200w flex panels on top of my Bimini on my CB 30. This is in addition to the existing Kyocera 135 original panel. You can see how I routed the wires all the way down to the controller I installed in the port Laz in front of the House bank.

 

[Martin610]

My old panel was not functioning properly either. I was getting less than 1 amp no matter what the conditions. My panel was hard wired as well.

I first upgraded the controller to a Victron Smart Solar 100/30. I got much more information from that panel. It confirmed the low output of the old solar panel. Not sure what is wrong with it, might have water intrusion. I used the Victron 100/30 to provide capacity for future upgrades.

I bought a Renogy Shadow Flux, 200 watts. I used the Gemini mounts. This was actually easy to put up.

I put a moving blanket on top of the old panel, and then cut the wires. I installed MC4 connectors so I could remove things in the future. There was enough wiring from the old panel to enable installation of the new connectors. The Bouge RV connector kit I bought made this pretty easy. You could use standard butt connectors and heat shrink, but I wanted the flexibility of MC4 type connectors. I will likely add another panel in future.

I am harvesting much more solar than I ever did before. While I do have a generator, the solar setup reduces the run time on that.

-martin610

 

[adrianmuir]

My old panel was not functioning properly either. I was getting less than 1 amp no matter what the conditions. My panel was hard wired as well.

I first upgraded the controller to a Victron Smart Solar 100/30. I got much more information from that panel. It confirmed the low output of the old solar panel. Not sure what is wrong with it, might have water intrusion. I used the Victron 100/30 to provide capacity for future upgrades.

I bought a Renogy Shadow Flux, 200 watts. I used the Gemini mounts. This was actually easy to put up.

I put a moving blanket on top of the old panel, and then cut the wires. I installed MC4 connectors so I could remove things in the future. There was enough wiring from the old panel to enable installation of the new connectors. The Bouge RV connector kit I bought made this pretty easy. You could use standard butt connectors and heat shrink, but I wanted the flexibility of MC4 type connectors. I will likely add another panel in future.

I am harvesting much more solar than I ever did before. While I do have a generator, the solar setup reduces the run time on that.

-martin610

Thanks Martin. I like your idea of adding MC4 connectors to make changing out a panel in the future easier. I'm looking at using a dual battery bank MPPT charger. My boat spends alot of time docked without access to shore power so It's a good way to keep my starter batteries topped up.