Sorry, another question. Wood surfaces

[Scouters]

Since we took delivery a couple of weeks ago my Co-captain (tried to explain that is not a legitimate title) is concerned about water rings and stains on surfaces. The dinette top in our R-27 has a nice solid finish but most of the other flat top wood like the dashes and top over the cave is made of rather porous teak? From experience I know there are many different grades and varieties of the same wood depending where it originates. Does anyone have suggestions on a good protective finish for this wood?

 

[Ken Boyd]

I use West Marine Teak Oil on the interior teak in my R-25 because I like the look of oiled teak but I will be the first to admit that traditional teak oil does not provide a great deal of moisture protection. Glasses sweating will leave rings on oiled teak but for the most part the rings can be blended out with additional teak oil applications. There are several brands of teak oil on the market and they all seem to be fairly similar.

If you would like to use something more durable, look at the teak in the head and the table top, they are coated with some type of varnish/sealer. If you like the look, contact the factory to find out what they use. Epifanes makes nice marine wood finish products that come in both high gloss and softer finishes.

You also have products like Semco Teak Sealer which penetrates the teak and provides a moisture barrier. In the past, I have used it on the exterior teak of boats I have owned and one application will generally last for a boating season but it does change the appearance of the teak a little.

 

[pugtug613]

IMO, teak oil is not the way to go. I find it darkens the wood too much and could cause mold over time. I just did mine with Epithane varnish. I lightly sanded the surface to make the color even, taped everything off, tacked everything 2 times and applied Epithanes with a stain rag. Let it dry overnight and apply a 2nd coat after a light sanding with 240 paper, tack it off 2 times. It is a very thin coat, but gives you very good protection against cup rings and food spills and such. I love the look. It looks like the factory finish. The exterior walls, table top and inside the head. It takes a little time, but it's worth it. Just do it one section at a time so your boat isn't out of commission too long. The "wipe on" method is the trick. No brush steaks or brush hairs! And a very thin coat.

Chester

 

[knotflying]

Everybody will have their opinions on this one. I use either Daly's Teak oil or, which I now prefer Pledge Revitalizing Oil. The pledge can just be rubbed on and rubbed in and has a pleasant orange smell. It also lasts a very long time.

 

[coreychamness]

I use three different finishes - depending upon which wood surface. I use the Pledge revitalizing oil on most surfaces because it is relatively inexpensive and isn't too shiny. I use a furnish oil from a local furniture maker on some of the surfaces because it smells great and looks good. Neither are that great for water glass rings. I put sikkens cetol natural teak finish on the rail/trim in front of the sink that runs on the edge of the galley in addition to the horizontal shelf that runs along the bulkhead behind the sink. The porthole over the shelf will drip water when opened and I got tired of wiping away the water stains. The holy war of varnish vs other finishes like Cetol is not worth fighting for me but the cetol is really, really easy to apply and looks good.

 

[pugtug613]

Varnish on the interior is not like varnish on the exterior. There is very little maintenance on interior surfaces. I agree with you on exterior, varnish is not worth the trouble. There are many opinions, but 2 coats or Sikkens and 2 coats of varnish (wiped on) take the same amount of time. As far as rings go, varnish will pass that test. Just sayin!
Chester