specifics on Aqualarm flow meter install R25

N

nzfisher

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Messages
593
Fluid Motion Model
R-25 SC
Vessel Name
Swims with Tuna
Looking for information on the water flow sensor-

I am about to install the Aqualaram water flow sensor on my R25 and wanted to know if there were any tricks involved. I intend to cut the 1.25 line just after the strainer removing about 1.5 inches and try to muscle the sensor between the two ends with vasoline lubricant on the hose ends. I hope to do this without removing any other part of the system. Any advice from people that already installed this sensor?

Thanks
 
That's about it. I'd use soap rather than Vaseline. And using a heat gun to warm up the hose makes it easier. Make sure and install it in the right direction You don't want to do it twice.
 
I just did an install on my R31. I did exactly as you are proposing. I cut the raw water intake hose with a hack saw. The only challenge I had was that there is a wire in the hose making it VERY rigid. The hack saw and side cutter cut through the hose and internal wire ok. But getting the hose on the barbed fittings was a real challenge. It appears that the barbed fitting is a slightly larger out diameter than the inner diameter of the hose. I was unable to get the hose on all the way to the end of the barbed fittings. The wire in the hose prevents it from stretching much. I used dish soap as a lubricant. I have room to get two hose clamps over the hose on each side of the barbed fitting but that was it. I am not completely happy with the fit on the barbed fittings of the hose but I will probably just have to live with it. You may not have the wire in the hose like I did which would make it much easier for you.

Everything works well. Hit ignition, hear raw water tone, start engine tone goes away. Pretty good validation you have water flow.

Good luck with your project!
 
I removed the hose and cut it at the tee location and shortened it to make up for the tee. I packed the tee on the unit with ice to shrink it and placed the ends of the hose upright in boiling water to soften and expand. I then used a bit of dish soap. then eds slid on with no unnecessary force whatsoever. The hardest part is running the wires to the helm.
 
Thanks for the suggestions on how to install the Aqualarm flow meter. I found that the oversized barbed fitting from Aqualarm to be problematic and probably expedient in their manufacturing process, (cheaper to make). It is basically a low pressure fitting, (almost no pressure) so making it 1.43 inches in diameter rather than the standard brass fittings 1.25" relates to irrigation standards rather than radiator hose standards. This requires much more work than necessary to install this puppy- heating the hose, stretching the hose, cooling the barb etc. I ended up cutting the hose about 6 inches from the strainer with a Festo type vibrating tool to avoid cutting other hoses, grinding through the spring wire, then removing the 1.5 inch section, then removing the hose from the tapered fiberglass elbow to ease the installation process. After enlarging the hose ends with large wrench sockets and a heat gun I pressed the sensor onto the removed length of hose then pressed that into the stationary 6" section attached to the strainer. The fiberglass elbow attached to the block by another short section of hose had just enough flex to allow reinstallation of the hose with attached sensor. Overall I am not very impressed with the quality of the Aqualarm product. The dash alarm indicator can be called nothing but cheaply made with its fragile plastic backing and globs of glue holding various components in place. The oversized plastic barb makes no sense. I also found the lack of scale drawings for their products on their website a drawback to preplanning the project. I would not have purchased it if I could have seen the oversized dimensions of the barbed ends on a drawing.
 
Sorry, but I did forget one very important thing that you found to be an obvious problem. I did sand the dickens out of the barbs on the "T" fitting. I apologize for not mentioning it, but I completely forgot about it until I read your post. I agree, such a low pressure fitting does not require such huge and sharp barbs. As flimsy as the raw water plate is if it does its job that will make me happy.
 
Just because you have installed the Aqualarm unit I would advise to not completely rely on the alarm sounding and then going going off to tell you the raw water flow is AOK without also looking over board to make a sanity check that water is exhausting correctly.

I would also say a good periodic maintenance check would be to throttle the raw water flow using the stop cock to make sure the alarm sounds as the flow rate deceases.
 
nzfisher":23l6h1lp said:
I found that the oversized barbed fitting from Aqualarm to be problematic.
Click to expand...

WOW - I'm surprised you all had a hard time installing the Aqualarm. I had NO problem fitting the hose to the fitting - it was snug but easily inserted. I wonder if the difference is due to the fact that I had just replaced that hose. Maybe the age of your hoses contributed to the problem?????

By the way,I found a very handy tool for removing hoses. You know how when trying to remove a hose, it's like the Chinese finger puzzle - the more you pull the tighter it gets. This tool helped a lot, and was the right price too:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4521-Hose...65&sr=1-1&keywords=OTC+4521+Hose+Removal+Tool
 
"WOW - I'm surprised you all had a hard time installing the Aqualarm. I had NO problem fitting the hose to the fitting - it was snug but easily inserted. I wonder if the difference is due to the fact that I had just replaced that hose."

I would conjecture that your new hose did not have a spring steel winding in it maintaining a 1.25" diameter.
 
nzfisher":2s5firsv said:
I would conjecture that your new hose did not have a spring steel winding in it maintaining a 1.25" diameter.
Click to expand...


No,my hose does have the steel winding, however, I had second thoughts about my post. I have a 2008 R25 wilh the 110HP Yanmar. My hose is 1" and I specified that when I purchased the Aqualarm. So my 1" fitting fits my 1" hose better than your 1.25" apparently.
 
If any of you installed the flow sensor on a Volvo Penta engine, can I ask where you tapped into / got your ‘switched power’ from? on our 21, the ignition panel has one VP cable running to it that looks after many functions. there are no exposed wires or connections at the ignition panel.

thanks...
 
There was a thread not too long ago where someone found the spot to connect it.

Re: 31CB Electrical Source for AquaAlarm Question
Postby NorCal on Fri Apr 15, 2016 8:44 pm

So I was able to get the power as I hoped. There is a relay harness from Volvo Penta designed for this exact purpose. I am fortunate that since I have the 31 this harness is used to power the circuit for the light that shows the seats in the cockpit are not folded in. Other models may not have the harness but it is something that can be connected to the main gear selector/throttle on all the Volvo Penta models as I understand it. I found a manual online that shows that the relay harness just plugs in to what is already there. When the ignition switch is switched on the circuit is energized and the alarm sounds. Start the engine, water flow starts and alarm stops.

I hope this will be helpful to others looking to do the same thing.
NorCal

Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:40 pm
City: Walnut Creek
State/Province: CA
Ranger Model: R-31 Tug
Vessel Name: Invictus
 
Thanks ‘knotflying.’ Didn’t find that one in my searches. Appreciate it.
 
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