Stern Thruster - Is this a freaking joke?

B

BaylorU

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Messages
57
Fluid Motion Model
R-21
Vessel Name
Grace
All,
My stern thruster was working great, and now it isn't working at all. I've tested the joystick with a multimeter and confirmed that it's working fine and is not the issue. Next, I have to dig into the stupid stern thruster itself, which I guess I might as well do at the same time as replacing the idiotic Garmin GHP10 pump (third one).

Here's my question...to access the stern thruster solenoid appears to require removal of literally like 25 bolts, half of which are on the bottom of the plastic black housing, while reaching through a tiny access panel at the bottom of the transom seat well. Is this a joke? How in the Good Lord's name was this a good design???

Am I correct, or does someone know something I don't (i.e. the solenoid is remotely located elsewhere, or there is a better way to remove the black housing)? I'm honestly just considering saying screw the stern thruster, as I cannot imagine how big a pain in the butt it's going to be to remove all those bolts.

On another related note, it appears that my thruster remote receiver is either not working, or it's not receiving power of any sort. Anyone have any experience with that? I'd take all the wiring apart except seriously accessing all the wiring harnesses is about as ridiculous as accessing the stern thruster.

Thanks!
Ken
 
Stern thruster access is a bitch. As for remote not working on our Tug we have a master toggle switch on the helm station. Look around. Good luck.
 
Any chance it is a battery issue or something lodged in the thruster??
 
BaylorU":1tv41sc9 said:
All,
My stern thruster was working great, and now it isn't working at all. I've tested the joystick with a multimeter and confirmed that it's working fine and is not the issue. Next, I have to dig into the stupid stern thruster itself, which I guess I might as well do at the same time as replacing the idiotic Garmin GHP10 pump (third one).

Here's my question...to access the stern thruster solenoid appears to require removal of literally like 25 bolts, half of which are on the bottom of the plastic black housing, while reaching through a tiny access panel at the bottom of the transom seat well. Is this a joke? How in the Good Lord's name was this a good design???

Am I correct, or does someone know something I don't (i.e. the solenoid is remotely located elsewhere, or there is a better way to remove the black housing)? I'm honestly just considering saying screw the stern thruster, as I cannot imagine how big a pain in the butt it's going to be to remove all those bolts.

On another related note, it appears that my thruster remote receiver is either not working, or it's not receiving power of any sort. Anyone have any experience with that? I'd take all the wiring apart except seriously accessing all the wiring harnesses is about as ridiculous as accessing the stern thruster.

Thanks!
Ken
Click to expand...

Hi Ken,

I agree working on the stern thruster through the holes in the AFT seat well is difficult. The good news is that the seat well and lid can be removed in order to remove the whole seat well giving you MUCH more room to work with!!! Once you remove the lid there are 4 screws that hold the seat well down, remove those and then the seat well will come out and expose much needed room to work with. If you'd like you can email me direct (my email is below in my signature) and I could send you some photos or go more in depth into removing that to gain you access. Also the easiest way to access the thruster remote box is via the 1/4 berth, once down there you will see a panel in the STRBD FWD corner that has the Garmin compass on, remove that panel and it will expose all the wiring under the helm. Hope this helps and please don't hesitate to reach out.

Thank you,
Kevin Lamont
 
Thanks, everyone, for the comments!

To answer: nope, it's not a battery or a lodged issue...I checked the thruster prop and it spins freely and I replaced the batteries for the entire boat last month and it did not solve the issue (what MIGHT have caused the issue is the older batteries that have now been replaced were likely putting out lower than normal voltage, which could trip up the solenoid).

My boat is a 2012, and they didn't wire in a helm switch for the thruster remote (at least not that I know of...Kevin, if I'm incorrect please LMK because I don't see any switches labeled remote or thruster or anything).

Kevin, I've dug into the area from both the cave and of course from above, and I've located all the wires and harnesses...they're just a real pain to reach! 🙂 I actually got to the remote receiver box that way (via the cave) and in order for me to be able to push the little remote "pairing mode" button I had to unscrew it from the bulkhead. That is when I realized the receiver is not getting any power for some reason, as the LED indicator does not light up when the button is pushed.

Good tip on the seat bucket thing. I'll definitely remove that when working on the thruster next time. Or, I may just throw the boat up on her trailer and pull the thruster out from the transom. I dunno. Hopefully it's just a loose connection somewhere or a solenoid...both easy fixes!

Thanks!
Ken
 
Can you actually access the thruster, solenoid, and / or shear pin from outside the transom?
 
Why not just remove the whole thruster motor? Two bolts only to remove then you can bench test the whole thing standing on your feet not on your head!
 
Hi Ken, did you managed to get the remote working? My 2012 C28's remote is not working and I am totally lost where to find the remote receiver to pair with the remote! Any suggestions? Thank you,

Benjamin
 
do you mean the bluetooth remote or the joystick mounted remote?

they are different and have different troubleshooting.
 
Don't mean to be condescending here.... But check the fuses.
Switch them - - front vs rear.
Good luck.
 
Thank you for your reply, it is the bluetooth remote. Thanks
 
The thrusters work well with joysticks, only not communicating with the bluetooth remote control
 
Bluetooth... that's way beyond my paygrade.
Stay safe,
r
 
On my boat the Bluetooth remote needs power to the Bluetooth module which is on an accessory switch.

Also check the batteries in the remote. Do the lights come on the remote when pressed?
 
I have replaced both batteries inside the remote, and the lights are on when I turned on and blinking with holding both on button, and I am unable to locate the controller box (not under the joysticks). Thanks
 
so I have a couple of accessory switches one of which needs to be on to provide power to the bluetooth module. your manual may state which or someone with your boat model year may be able to help.

wait a a minute

turn on the joysticks so they have power

turn on the remote

test

if this doesn't work its either you still dont have power to the bluetooth module or the remote is not paired.

in the cutwater the bluetooth module is under the helm control which is accessed through the cave bulkhead below the drivers seat. you can unscrew the monkey fur panel off with a couple of screws and move it out of the way. you will see the water tank in front of you but up to the right should be all the electronics under the throttle controls.

this has instructions for pairing.
https://side-power.com/media/frontend_media/pdf/current_manuals/RC-10E manual A5rev1.3.LR.pdf

a call to the factory might provide some clues exactly where the power comes from for your boat and how to access?
 
I have turned thrusters on, and have turn the acc switch on as well as the remote power on (with both lights are blinking) but unable to locate the remote controller box to press the pair button... the wires under the starboard arm rest area is liked a maze and can't find my way in, don't wanted to knock some connectors loose... Any suggestions??? Thanks
 
The toggle switch for my remote is at the far right and second from the right. It is not labeled.
 
After days and hours on hunting down the controller which is buried in the jungle of wires on the starboard under the thruster joysticks (found by the marine mechanic and $300 labor), and found that the controller is packed in, and the marine shop ordered for me and will cost around $900 for the controller only. Well, can't wait to finish all these defects.
 
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