Stern Thruster Not Working - Need Help

Gypsy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2021
Messages
138
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
Hull Identification Number
USFMLC2804F
Vessel Name
Gypsy
The stern thruster on my C28 stopped working. No noise, no click, no nothing. I found the large 150A fuse and it is OK. Can anyone tell me where else to look? (Brian, if you are out there chime in).
 
Bill I would start by using this troubleshooting guide.

download/file.php?id=307

Good luck! After going through the troubleshooting steps. Post your findings if you sill are having issues.
 
Also how do you know the fuse is OK? Visual inspection only may not pick up hairline cracks or cracks hidden by the fuse body. Or did you do a continuity test across the opposite ends of the fuse?
 
In my case - benefit of hindsight - I should have seen it coming:
- 12 year old thruster.
- I missed signs of impending motor failure: too many instances of "gosh, need a stronger thruster" lately.
- failed to thoroughly investigate rusty salt water dribble suddenly showing up in aft port limber hole into bilge.
- confused by eventual/brief inconsistent control behavior - got too focused on the controls.

The plastic casing on the rear thruster had developed a progressive crack; seawater bounce-back from a tightly mounted dinghy was reflecting the weird jet that fires out from the exhaust side at high speeds thus continuously spraying the transom; motor was full of rust mud. Replaced it rather than attempting rebuild (casings have evolved, parts not available, probable damage to "everything"). Amazing that the thing didn't short out long before the rotor seized (maybe it did - would explain transient control interruptions).

/tmm
 
Alright, I ended up removing the stern thruster motor with the help of my skinny grandson. The first thing I noticed was that the area where the shear pin is located was all rusted. After removing the plastic housing around the motor I noticed a lot of moisture and corrosion around the electrical components and the motor. When I spun the motor shaft, it was not smooth turning. Obviously, water is getting into the unit, but I'm not sure how. Could it be coming through the propeller shaft seal, through the gear housing, and then through the seal that goes around the shaft that goes through the transom? There is no water in the bilge. The boat is kept on a lift, and it has less than 400 hours of use. I know I have to replace the motor assembly. Do I need to replace the propeller assembly also? The manual says that the gear assembly is lifetime lubricated.
 
With the motor removed turn the gear housing shaft. I know it is hard to get down there to do that. See if the shaft turns freely without binding. If the seals were bad the gear housing would be in bad shape. It is a sealed unit. Next I would lower the boat in the water and check to see if there is water leaking in around the thruster/ transom seal and the gear housing seal. If yes you will need to remove and access damage.

My guess is the water is leaking in from up top. The aft seat is awesome to use but also is a easy place for water leaks into that aft section. I had this issue with my C26 Cutwater. I had a full enclosed cockpit which sealed this area from water. When I would cruise with the aft curtain off the seat area was exposed to any water wash that would make its way up to the starboard hinged board under the seat. Water would leak in through this area. Not much but enough that I could see water stains from leakage when I open the two beckon plats at the bottom of the storage pan. Fortunately this was early just after I had purchased the boat. There was evidence of water on the motor assembly. My first thought was if I was boating in salt water and this was leaking like this it would destroy that motor. I remove the rear seat yearly to inspect steering components, grease the rudder box, and spray the thruster motor and components with CRC penetrant oil to protect it from moisture. When reassembling the seat components I stick a weather strip down on the fiberglass first , then reinstalled all components and screwed it back down. This helps stop water from leaking into the compartment. There is also a storage pan that is fastened there that will leave a leak path. You just removed all this stuff to get to the motor. Seal all of this well.

My opinion or guess without seeing the damage, you may find that over a few years of using the boat this is where the water came from that damaged your motor.
 
Brian,
Thanks for the input. The shaft from the gear case turns smoothly. I will address the water intrusion from the seat area.
 
Update - Just received the replacement stern thruster motor from Imtra. When I unpacked the motor it was different from the old motor. The old motor had a plastic shroud that totally enclosed the motor and the electronics. The replacement motor only had a plastic shield over the electronics. I assumed, incorrectly, that the replacement motor was a newer model and didn't need the shroud. In the parts bag a locking washer (C ring that holds the shear pin in place) was missing. I figured I would just use the old C ring, but it was too rusted. So, I called Imtra's tech guy, Mike, who I must say was very knowledgeable. Turns out that the old motor was "ignition protected", which is why it had the plastic shroud around it. The shroud also helps keeps moisture from entering the unit. Mike said that stern thrusters are usually ignition protected and that if I installed the unit they sent me, the standard unit, that it would not last very long. He said that if I checked the bow thruster, it would most likely be the standard model, but I have not verified that. So I am sending the the standard motor back and ordered the IP model. The motors are expensive. The standard motor is $1400. The IP motor is $2000.
Mike also mentioned that there is a weep hole in the mounting plate that comes through the transom. The plate must be mounted with the hole facing down so that water will not collect between the mating plates. I saw nothing in the installation manual about this, so it would not surprise me that during construction the plate could be installed upside down which could attribute to why my motor rusted out so soon.
 
The story I tell myself about the rear thruster involves both build quality of the unit, weep holes and attitude of the boat while traveling- both on trailer and in water. The area the thruster lies in is not water tight, hence the weep holes. They have no valves so will let water in as well as out. To me this means when the angle of the boat changes, when the boat accelerates, is pulled out of the water on a steep ramp, when it is trailered up steep hills (especially in the rain) water enters that “hold” and rises to a higher depth than normal soaking the rear thruster unit. When I replaced mine which had obvious signs of being submerged in water, I took the risk of spraying the entire unit with a rubberized sealer quite thoroughly, so far so good (perhaps 7 years). I don’t see a down side to this but there might be one. Just a thought.
 
I took the risk of spraying the entire unit with a rubberized sealer quite thoroughly, so far so good (perhaps 7 years). I don’t see a down side to this but there might be one. Just a thought.


Will give this further consideration, but first reaction was "genius"!!!! :idea:
What an effective and simple solution!!!!

Thank you!

Mark
 
Bill I feel your pain had the same issues on Piglet before we left for the loop. Replaced the rear thruster my water intrusion was from a cracked housing they( IMTA) pressurized it submerged in water and saw bubbles coming from the case. This thruster was but a year old. Buy the Grandson a special gift for Xmas as the thruster removal is a PITA. I slipped as I was trying to pull it out and fell on the the edge of the seat and broke a rib.
 
Done, done, and done. I can now report that my replacement "ignition protected" thruster motor is now installed and works. I received the replacement motor a few days ago and installed it, correction, my skinny grandson installed the motor. My job was to hold the light on my cell phone, which I didn't do very well seeing as how I dropped it in the water in the bilge where recovering it required a very long skinny arm. Again, my grandson. Anyway, when we attempted to attach the data line to the motor, the new plug was different from the plug on the old motor. The data cables both have plastic snap/lock connectors on the ends. However, the new cable is pretty short, whereas the old cable is long and traces somewhere back through the boat. So, replacing the cables was not an option. I called Imtra, and they said the the cables could be spliced together, which is what we did. And, the motor worked.

Now, why did my motor crap out after very little use. Here is what I think. When the boat starts off and the transom is low in the water, and there is water in the bilge, it can cover the thruster motor. The mating surfaces between the motor and the gear mounting plates are not water tight. Water gets into the area around the motor shaft and causes corrosion, and eventually motor failure. We checked the weep hole, and it was facing down. So, because the mounting plates are not water tight, water actually can enter the weep hole. If the boat sits on the ramp, or on trailer at a steep angle, the water will have more than enough time to fill the enclosed shaft area. When the boat is level, the water goes back out the weep hole, but by then the damage is done. I thought about applying a sealant to the mating surfaces, but my grandson said that if we ever had to remove the motor in the future that we would play hell trying to get it apart. Instead, we opted to heavily coat the void with marine grease. Hopefully, we made the right decision.
 
For Gayles: go to Home Depot and invest in a decent (not the most expensive, necessarily) digital voltmeter (DVM) ... on a boat, they are indespensible!
As for your question about fuses: pull the fuse and do a continuity check in midrange. Tip: always check '0' before testing ...
The meter will be the best fifty bucks you can spend. If you have never used one before, snag your local electrician and have him give you a 10 minute lesson - or a local ham radio operator (and he will be your new best friend). Two rules: voltage is defined as difference in POTENTIAL to flow / current (which you should not try with your meter unless you know what you are doing and have a shunt and all of that) is the actual flow of current ...Lotz online about using DVM.
 
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