Stern Thruster Removal 2011 R29

fishheadbarandgrill

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
672
Fluid Motion Model
R-29 Classic
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Sunfish; Vespa GTS 300 Super
Vessel Name
Sea Shanty
MMSI Number
368069690
Anyone have experience removing the stern Thruster on their R29 Classic? My motor is seized and I need to remove the entire motor assembly. Looking for any hints on how it comes out.
 
I have replaced a shear pin for a stern thruster in both a 29 and a 31 - it is essentially the same thing. If you are removing the whole motor, I would start by removing the power cables and the control signal cable/connector.

Note: Make sure to keep the power cables physically separated /insulated from each other.

Then, with the handy ratchet (this is essential as there is not a lot of clearance) that you should have gotten with your boat, simply remove two allen head bolts, around the collar - then slide the motor forward. Be prepared to support its weight, as it is rather heavy.

Regards,

Ed P.
 
EdandJeanne":2fa4ti3c said:
I have replaced a shear pin for a stern thruster in both a 29 and a 31 - it is essentially the same thing. If you are removing the whole motor, I would start by removing the power cables and the control signal cable/connector.

Note: Make sure to keep the power cables physically separated /insulated from each other.

Then, with the handy ratchet (this is essential as there is not a lot of clearance) that you should have gotten with your boat, simply remove two allen head bolts, around the collar - then slide the motor forward. Be prepared to support its weight, as it is rather heavy.

Regards,

Ed P.

Is the handy ratchet a Side Power product or something RT provided?
 
The Allen head bolts are metric. You can buy a metric size at Harbor Freight and cut the short side to fit into the small space in front of the Allen bolts. Side Power does sell the wrench to fit. How did the unit freeze? I found that my stern thruster while sealed in that fiberglass case had moisture intrusion on the brush holders consequently corroding the holder. It can be rebuilt but a savvy marine electric motor rebuilder. It may be better and buy a new unit and save the old one for parts, Check the bow thruster too, mine had a stuck brush and would only occasionally turn over. The inexperienced tech said it was the relay,$$$ later and still the same problem. I took it to a more savvy tech he found the problem and also replace the bearings with sealed bearings. Motor for front and rear thrusters are the same. Tip, take the whole motor out and bench check it. Also, check the gear legs for freedom of movement and not frozen from corrosion. There was another thread on this same issue a while back.
 
I have to remove my Stern Thruster to repair a leak in the mounting to the hull. How do you remove the control cable? Does it pull straight off ? Twist off ? Or some other way?
 
S Todd,

I had a leak around the bolts/flange that secure the stern thruster to the transom on my R 27 C last summer. Once the boat was on the trailer, I proceeded to remove the square head bolts from the flange, which was å real pain as the previous owner had tried to tighten them and rounded off the square head. I left the thruster intact and only disconnected the power cables for safety reasons. I tied a line around the thruster housing and supported it from the back rail in the cockpit. I never removed the thruster from it's location, only separated it from it's securing flange, recaulked it and used new stainless hex bolts. I've not tested the repair as yet but hope the leak has been fixed. All of this work was difficult due to limited access and having to reach way down from above. Especially the bolts at the bottom of the flange.

Bob Allan
Annie M R-27C
 
allanrs74@gmail.com":y6cjanrz said:
S Todd,

I had a leak around the bolts/flange that secure the stern thruster to the transom on my R 27 C last summer. Once the boat was on the trailer, I proceeded to remove the square head bolts from the flange, which was å real pain as the previous owner had tried to tighten them and rounded off the square head. I left the thruster intact and only disconnected the power cables for safety reasons. I tied a line around the thruster housing and supported it from the back rail in the cockpit. I never removed the thruster from it's location, only separated it from it's securing flange, recaulked it and used new stainless hex bolts. I've not tested the repair as yet but hope the leak has been fixed. All of this work was difficult due to limited access and having to reach way down from above. Especially the bolts at the bottom of the flange.
I've got the same issue to deal with. Not looking forward to it.
 
Thrusters aren't too bad, I’ve replaced stern thrusters in the R25 and R29 with the R29 being far easier to access.

On the R29 I had to remove the stern gas tank which was not too bad then you just inchworm yourself in there to fight the two fasteners that hold the thruster motor to the transom.

To get them to begin to turn I used a cut down allen wrench as mentioned above but I had to put a 10 or so inch piece of plumbing pipe on the end for a cheater bat which helped immensely as i couldn’t get them to break loose just tugging on the allen wrench.

I also tried a cheater bar on the tool shown in the link and it made a crunching sound as it exploded, hence the advice to use an allen wrench for breaking the fasteners loose in the beginning.

First make sure the socket on the fastener is clean and hopefully not stripped ‘cause if it is or you strip it you’ll need to cut the head off and how to do that in that confined space would be quite the challenge. You’ll need a spinning ablative cutter for trimming the allen wrench down and use a good quality wrench, again, you really don’t want to strip out those fasteners.

Also, I used new fastiners in the install as the sockets on the originals showed signs of wear, I always try to think of the next guy ‘cause usually it’s still me. Needing two I bought four, two to use, one to lose, one spare.

As you undo the two fasteners you'll have to bump the thruster assemble away from the transom so there continues to be sufficient room for the tool that’s turning the fasteners.

Once they're loose and turning the difficulty isn’t turning the fasteners it’s changing sides with the wrench, getting it back in the fasiner. So after my R25 adventure I bought three wrenches having destroyed the first one and on the R29 it was break the fasteners loose with the allen wrench with the cheater bar on it, put two wrenches in place, five yanks on one wrench, five yanks on the other wrench, yank on the thruster, five yanks five yanks thruster yank etc.

Also, I built a little cradle for the thruster to take its weight off the fasteners while backing it and them out but if this causes the wrenches to not ratchet you’ll have to just let it dangle there during the removal and I don’t think this causes any harm. The cradle is handy on the install to keep things in line as they go together and the instructions I received with the new thruster actually advised to support the thruster if it’s mounted horizontally but I think this is likely due to the pounding on go more faster boats than our Rangers but Yes, I did leave it in place.

So I bought my new thruster at a place called Marine Warehouse in Alabama for $2,200 and $28 shipping to the west coast which was by far the best price i could find. I also found those ratcheting allen wrenches for $8 or so bucks which took the sting out of having to buy three but I forget where I got ‘em.
 
The two bolts on my stern thruster were frozen with corrosion. I had to carefully cut them off from the outside. New bolts with open hex heads were used along with never seize. Use the caulk that Imtra recommends.
 
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