Stern thruster

C

cruiser

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2013
Messages
18
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Ranger R23
Vessel Name
Ta-Keel-La
Stern thruster seems dead. Have power at the controls.....both orange lights come on
Main thruster switch is on, stern thruster fuse intact- power on both sides of it
Thruster turns by hand


Any ideas?


Thanks much
 
cruiser,

A couple of questions that might help in diagnosing the problem:

1. Does the bow thruster work okay?
2. Have you connected a volt meter to the battery cable connections at the stern thruster to see if you have sufficient voltage there? The thrusters are somewhat voltage sensitive.

Imtra provides the Sidepower thrusters in the U.S., so you can get their contact info at this link:

http://www.imtra.com/contact-us.htm

If you call them, they are very helpful in assisting you in diagnosing problems.
 
Thanks for the link
Bow thruster works fine
Unfortunately the thruster seems to be behind the waste tank
 
Do search on stern thruster here on Tugnuts. There are lots of threads with information on how to troubleshoot and resolve stern thruster issues including description and photos on how to access it (though it is not pretty :shock: ).

Probably a broker shear pin. Good luck
 
First check the fuses. Take the fuse out to make sure it is not broken to visually inspect it. Next see if there is water in the thruster cavern. If there is, it is likely that the thing is fried- but Imtra (the maker of the thruster) has a whole list of things to trouble shoot before you give up on the thruster itself. There might be a link from the Tugnuts website from previous thruster failures.

I have strong feelings about the poor drainage from the thruster cavern and how it only drains properly in optimum conditions but come to your own conclusions.
 
I'm in the same boat so to speak, mine did the "actuate briefly by itself" a few times over a several month period and then flat quit while being operated. Checked with Ranger, Andrew said he "knows a guy" that rebuilds the units so I pulled it (tons of fun!) and sent it to Andrew who took it to "the guy." Thought about doing it myself, threads here speak about a controller that's $130 or so but "a guy" who knows what he's doing giving it a once over thoroughly appeals more.

My compartment can keep a bit of water in it and I agree with others here that's the problem. The drain hole is located towards the mid line and the list while on the trailer defeats draining completely. After washdown I use a wet dry vacuum and then leave the hatch below the bait tank open for evaporation.
 
The previous owner installed "Whale Supersub Smart 650" small bilge pump in the cavity in front of the stern thruster. The area stays dry. Perhaps that is something to consider when your thruster is back up an running.
 
Hey cruiser, We are going through this problem right now with out 2012 R25 SC. Give me a call and I can maybe help you out. I have been in contact with the manufacture.
Al (403 242-4387)
 
Sometimes it is the control wire that plugs into the back of the thruster.
Disconnect it both from the back of the thruster and the white plastic spade connector.
Check for rusty/tarnished pins and spades.
Also check continuity. If it takes a sharp bend behind the thruster to clear the holding tank shelf some of the internal wires made be busted.
 
Performed all diagnostics, looks like thruster is toast. Seems it doesn't have to contact water but just water trapped in vicinity will evaporate and cause issues......not the best in a saltwater boat

Anyway, of course the wrench to undo the thruster wasn't with my manuals.....tried to alter an Allen key
Anyone know manufacturer contact info so I can get one? What does it even look like?
Anyone have any yoga tips on twisting in there to get it out?

Looks like she's on the trailer fo a while
 
I purchased the tool from Richard at Ranger, $13. Took the bait tank out, took the hatch out, took the doors off, wire tied black water lines out of the way, used carpet and pillows for padding.

Learned a copla lessons in the removal: Found out that if you back the fastener out too far the wrench will become struck; (now I own two wrenches!) there's a picture of this in my album, so back each fastener out a little, side to side while backing the thruster out at the same time. I needed a cheater bar on the wrench to get each fastener to break loose.

Per the advice on the 'Nuts I took the exhaust apart. I was worried the fiberglass parts were barbed and fragile, difficult to disassemble and breakable, they are not. Andrew said he just works a small screwdriver down around them to break the "adhesion of time" I did that and also added some dishwasher soap overnight. I removed the U shaped one up top and then popped the other one off at the through hull.

Look at this as a multi day project, there's soaking time for the soap and of course delivery time on that second wrench!
 
I guess I was a bit Lucky. Since the boat is only a year old the bolts were not too corroded.
Cut down a 6mm allen key and padded up the hatch, hung upside down and both bolts came free fairly easy.
Has to be done mostly by feel and learn to turn the wrench a uniform amount so key goes back in. Only had to remove the drain tubes .....not the exhaust (maybe this is a redesign) Anyway I got the ratchet wrench now....this has to be done if you break a shear pin. Think I will use marine grease around the threads and caps to avoid corrosion.

Many thanks to everyone that contributed......a reasonably nasty job that most of us with stern thrusters will have to go through at some time
 
I had to replace the gear assembly - it had just worn out, the rubber water seals on the propeller and motor side were both worn and the propeller bearing was shot - the prop was hitting the casing and wearing a grove.

Not to hard to get the gear assembly out - the motor itself was easy after removing the hatch door, the side panel, tieing the hoses out of the way and drying the water that had entered since the leak began.

It was also fairly easy to get the gear assembly back in. Pushed it into place and wedged it in with a block between the assembly and the thruster housing.

Now - How do I get the motor back in? I have a cut off bolt on one side and the motor is on the bolt.

I have blocks of wood under the motor to lift it - and several cords tied to the motor to bring it higher.

But, I can't figure out how to get the motor into the flange so I can get the allen head machine screw in place.

I was thinking of getting two longer bolts, cutting them into studs, putting them in place and using nuts rather than allen head screws.

Will this work? How long should the studs be?

Thanks!
 
If the thruster isn't working AND it doesn't even make a noise, then it is not the shear pin.

I performed the "jumper test" at the rear control plug that should be somewhere near the rudder controls along the transom (white plug - takes a bit of muscle to unplug) Mine failed the Jumper test failed. (Jumper red to gray, it runs. Jumper red to blue, it runs. Test voltage, NOT JUMPER, red to black should show 12 volts. I also switched the fore and aft fuses just to make sure that they were both ok. That is about all you can do because the whole mechanism is sealed up in the "can". Beyond that you've got to pull it out.

I was able to take out my thruster myself with the help of a friend. Had to remove the top of the aft hatch compartment and the propane locker and the floor of the rear compartment. (2012, R-27) We used a piece of strapping going up to the aft railing to support the weight (friend wiggled it while I squatted in the small hole, upside down. I'm a spry old guy.) I made my own wrench by cutting down the short leg on an allen wrench. Also taped a long piece of string onto the long end of the wrench.... I often drop tools. (I just remembered that I have posted a photo of my cut down wrench.)

My local dealer, Pocket Yachts, repaired the thruster. It was only the controller circuit board... not the worst thing that could happen. Mat'l + labor about $300.

My friend and I put the thruster back in using my temporary stud method. Actually as easy as taking it out. The "temporary stud method" is explained in another posting under my name.

After doing all that, the often posted advice,"Do not quickly switch left-right-left-right-left." sticks in my mind. I would not want to go through all that effort for a stupid shear pin.
 
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