strange buzzing noise

C

Captain Mike

Active member
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
31
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
2016 25 ranger with the D3 engine. Last week just as I was about to leave our boat, a buzzing noise began, sort of an electrical whine? High pitched. After much searching, the noise appears to be eminating from the rear starboard storage locker. It seems to be coming from either the water heater or somthing behind the water heater. Given that the water heater was not turned on and there are really no parts in a water heater that can buzz (at least to the best of my knowledge) I really dont think it is the heater. the only other things in this locker are the inverter, the transducer, a water pump and the stearing fluid tank. The only way I can get the noise to stop is to turn off the house power. None of the switches on the power panel will get rid of the noise. Even tried removing the fuses one at a time and the noise persists.
It starts out quite low but the noise intensifies to the point where if you are on the boat you have to turn off the house power.

Anybody have any idea what could be causing this noise.?
 
The pump for the shower drain has been known to start up without any apparent cause. It seems that the problem is related to the pump's float switch. Some of us have installed a switch mounted on the base of the sink cabinet to control power to the pump. Switch on only when needed to clear water from the sump in which the pump is located. Not a fun job getting to the sump. The four screws for the cover are quite awkward to remove and remount. Installing the switch is easier. all you need to do is identify the correct power lead, This can be done without removing the sump cover. However, I would want to get into the sump to investigate the problem.
 
We've had a couple buzzing investigations on our 2016 R27. Here's what we've found:

One time the diesel heater was on and we didn't know it. I believe there's a small pump associated with that.

Just a couple weeks ago, one of my passengers says he heard a faint buzzing, none of us could hear it. When I turned the propane solenoid off he says it went away.

Probably plenty of other things on these boats that could "buzz"
 
Do you have cicadas out there?
 
I vote the sump pump as well. I had the same issue and couldn't get into the pump box to solve the issue with the float switch, so installed a manual switch as mentioned above.
 
Thanks for the comments, shower pump? It does sound load when in the bathroom.
Where would the fuse for this be located so that I can test this theory. I did try pulling all of the fuses under the dash that can be accessed from the fore cabin side.
 
Re: location of the shower pump fuse. For my 2012 R27 it is located within the PDP fuse block. This fuse block is in the forward, port side cockpit locker i.e. near all the battery main switches. The fuse is clearly labeled.
The circuit diagram for the tug shows 20 a fuse. I changed mine out for a 5A.
 
Thanks Osprey
I pulled the fuse and the buzzing stoped so it looks like it is the shower sump pump.
We have never used the shower so what next.
I could just pull the fuse or put in line switch beside the fuse block?
There are no wires or access hatches under the sink so the access to the sump pump must be via the removal of the hot water tank. That seems like a lot of work to fix somthing that we really dont use.
So I guess the question is if we dont use the shower, we dont really need to the sump pump to work? Or does this have other roles to play that require this device to be functional?
 
Pretty sure the your R25SC is the same as our R27. No need to remove the water heater. In the compartment under the head sink there is a triangular piece of white Starboard (white plastic board) in the floor with a hole in one corner allowing you to use your finger to lift it up and out. Under that piece is the shower sump box. There are four screws, one in each corner, that need to be removed to lift the lid of the sump box. Very tight! Use a right angle Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws that hold the lid down. Throw the Phillips screws away! Once you have the lid off you can get access to the filter screen, float switch, and the pump. You can test the float switch with a lever on the side in case it is obstructed and needs cleaning. Otherwise it has failed and needs to be replaced. You will have to go by feel to the remove screws for the float switch. Replace the float switch using sealed shrink crimp connectors (outside the sump box) and use stainless thumb (or eye screws) that you can turn by hand for the lid when you put it back together (for easy cleaning, it does not need to be tight). Clean the filter screen in the sump annually, the thumb screws will make it much easier!

Hope this helps!

Curt
 
Captain Mike, on your R25SC the shower sump box only serves the shower drain located in the head. So, if you never use the shower, there is no NEED to do a repair. Pulling the fuse is sufficient. However, if you follow the clear instructions posted by Red Raven, the repair process is within the skills of the average or better DIY person. I like working on my tug so repair was my choice. I have been retired for 25 years so I have the time.
 
Thanks
I will follow Red Ravens advice and see what I can do to fix the issue.
Will let you all know how it goes.
 
Is there a trick to getting the tubular perforated screen out of the sump box? I can't see how it comes out. Do you have to remove the hose clamp on the outside of the box? Thanks, GF
 
No, Just give it a squeeze and pull. It should pop out. May need a push to the side.

Curt
 
Yes the screen just pops out when you grab it, just removed it today. By the way, it was my float switch that was deffective. thanks to all for the advice and guidence.
 
Squeeze and pull worked. Thank you gents. Didn't want to force anything on my own and break something. The issue I'm having is that my sump will fill up with water but not pump out. I go home and ponder the matter for a day or two. When I return the sump is near empty. I pulled the filter and cleaned it but it only had a little debris in it and still looked serviceable. To clear out the remaining crud in the box and inside the pump and swithc (which doesn't look that bad except I can't see behind the float switch body) I was going to pull the fuse and fill the sump with vinegar. After a day of soaking I would scrub around the box with a long Fuller like brush, pump out, rinse. Good/bad idea? I didn't know about the test switch located by the wires - that's handy and I'll try testing that too.

Open Sump: https://photos.app.goo.gl/A98SyxoBhonZQFUr9

With regard to installing a switch. Wow, how on earth did you access the wiring which on my boat is located on the far side of the sump box and stuffed underneath the H/C water hoses? Did you locate / install the switch somewhere else along the wire run? I can't see how to do a good wiring connection in that small cramped space.

Pump wiring: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ErFUncYiRfeH17SG9

GF
 
I went down to the boat and poured some vinegar and water into the sump box and then scrubbed all around using a flex-handle brush. The box, pump and switch body cleaned up nicely. To drain the box, I had to fiddle with the manual test lever in the back of the float case. I would press it up and down a couple of times and then the pump would activate and drain the box. However, I couldn't consistently get that switch to work. I wondering if the switch is failing or there is crud inside the switch body impeding something. If the switch is bad and needs replacing, does anyone have advice on what wires to cut and where to splice in the new unit? GF
 
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