Bobby P.":maackuqg said:
Brian,
Thanks fo the insight.
You were right, the packing was in there. Packed way down and tight. It took me hours upside down to dig it all out, but finally got it.
Repacked with two rounds. Way tight and could barely get the second round in. Finally managed to get the nut back on. I'm thinking that I will go with two round and run it for awhile. I'll pull the boat in a few weeks and see if I can get a third row in. Do you think it will be a problem to run it with only two rows?
Thanks for your support.
Bobby
I'm going to give you two answers. The one that you want to read and the one that you don't want to read.
Running with two rows of packing will give you an adequate sealing for a while. You will have to adjust the packing more often until the packing fully seats. At this time most of your "adjustment threads will be used up. You should be fine for awhile.
As a person that serviced boats, engines and running gear I would say IMO I would not run with two rows and I could not turn a boat over to a client knowing that a 3 row gland only has 2 rows installed. The only time I installed one row less was when I was doing a in the water repack (different style gland than used in Ranger) I would leave one old row in so the gland did not leak badly as I was repacking. The end result in that was one old row and two to three new rows depending on the gland size.
Mike's method is a good method if you have room. There are all different ways of pushing the packing into the nut or gland. The bottom line is you want to have the correct number of rows based on the packing gland design. Because of the tight quarters in the Rangers and Cutwaters this job is much more difficult.
If your boat is out of the water the best method of doing this job is the two step. Remove the packing nut and clean it. Use a small wire brush to clean the inside bore of the nut. The cleaner it is, the easier it is to slide the packing in. Once this is completed. Walk away!!! You have been standing on your head to long and the frustration of the job has set in!
Measure the prop shaft OD if you do not know the size. I believe a R31 has a 1 1/2" shaft. My C26 had a 1 1/4" shaft. To make the job easier precut the packing on a bench. You can use ( Tubing purchased from hardware store a 1' piece. Tubing is measured OD so 1 1/2" tubing is 1 1/2 Inch outside diameter ) If you are at a boat yard ask if they have a 1 1/2" prop shaft (if that is the shaft size ) Laying in the shop you could use as a template. Trying to make a perfect cut standing on your head in the Ranger is tough. Cut a few extra just in case you damage one while installing.
Once you have the packing ready and you are rested. Get comfortable and start installing the packing one row at a time. Pick the best method that works for you.
Once you get the packing installed and the nut started. Don't tighten, just snug it and lock the nut. If the boat is on the trailer turn the prop several rotations to help initially seat the packing to the shaft. When you launch the boat it may leak a little. Tie the boat to a dock and then do you adjustment. Start the engine, put it in gear, inspect for leaking. Let the shaft and packing seat before tightening it. Tighten it slowly 1/8 turn at a time, start the engine and recheck, 1/8 turn and repeat until you have the desired drips 2 to 3 in a minute with the shaft turning at idle. This job is a PIA no matter what boat it is in. The good thing is if tightened properly and not over tightened you should get 1000 hours +/- couple hundred hour out of packing .
