This could happen to anyone with an inboard engine

2savage

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2021
Messages
65
Fluid Motion Model
C-30 S
Vessel Name
SAVAGE II
After almost being disabled off the New Jersey coast and struggling into NY harbor it was time to get the diesel mechanics to work on my R29 again. What they found was eye opening and a potential failure for ALL Rangers with an inboard engine and/or bilge fuel tank.

The symptoms and engine codes pointed to fuel delivery issues and the mechanic started at the primary filter, which was new and should not have been suspect. It did however show significant discoloration of the internal element after it had been removed and cut open. So now the fuel pickup tube was pulled from the tank and what we found was shocking. Thick black crud blocked the entire gauze mesh that serves as a primary defense to fuel debris. Using a camera a photo of the tank inside showed more dirt at the bottom of the tank. What had happened here was a boat being used for flat water bay cruising over a period of 11 years, then a new owner (me) heading into rough waters on a 600 mile delivery that included an Atlantic passage in significant seas that stirred up fuel tank deposits. The resulting clog of the mesh at the bottom of the fuel pickup caused a low fuel pressure situation whose significant engine code for a Yanmar was P0088.

The solution was to suck out tank deposits using an oil change machine then remove the gauze mesh off the pickup tube. Going forwards the primary filter will be the first line of defense, not the pickup tube.

So, I imagine that every Ranger with a fuel tank in the bilge has a similar arrangement and could suffer the same demise. I hope this helps others diagnose and cure their fuel delivery issues.

Alan
 
I recently sold my 2010 25SC with a Yanmar 150 with close to 1200 hours. I treated every gallon of diesel with FPPF and added BioBor when it was winterized. I never had a fuel related problem and the filters were changed yearly. I was told early on that Yanmar only recommended the FPPF product. I stressed to the new owner to continue using the product.
https://fppf.com/product/marine-diesel-fuel-treatment/
Would fuel polishing help clean out your tank?
If the tank isn’t cleaned out your primary filter will continue to clog up.
 
IMO polishing would not bypass the mesh gauze. Fuel additives would not tackle the foreign content of a fuel fill up either. I think what I had done is the only permanent remedy.
 
This is not only a issue with a bilge fuel tank it is an issue with any fuel tank especially diesel. Diesel fuel and the fuel components have to be maintained. Maintaining is keeping fresh fuel in the tanks and if the fuel is to be stored for a while some type of additive added to prevent the fuel from going bad. Water/condensation, heat and Microbial activity are some of the contaminants that contribute to what you experienced. A boat that is not used much and is not well maintained will be a perfect candidate for a dirty fuel tank. Normally what happens is the crud is all on the bottom of the tank. The fuel pickup is 1" off the bottom of the tank. Microbial growth occurs when water is in the bottom of the fuel tank and the diesel fuel temperature is between 50F to 100F which is most of the time. ... Under severe conditions, this causes sludge to accumulate in the bottom of the fuel tank.


How do you prevent this additives can help, keep fresh fuel in the tank, add a servicing port to the tank so you can check for water a sludge in the bottom of the tank. If you purchase a used boat and don't know the past history of the boats use have the fuel tank polished as part of your boat commissioning. This way you are starting fresh.

I installed a fuel polishing system in my C26 Cutwater. Below are some threads that I posted.

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=10989&hilit=+fuel+tank#p75443
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10635&hilit=fuel+tank#p73254

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52981

In 5 years of cruising 650 hours of operation the water separating filter of the polishing system had very little water or debris. My primary Racor filter never had any discoloration or water in it and the secondary filter the same. I did get bad fuel one time in Florida (Indian Town) fortunately I polished the fuel the evening after fueling there and did a sample and found the filter full of water. I then polished it several more times until I saw no more water. The primary and secondary filters were both water free and debris free when I did my 100 hour inspection and replacement of filters. I always used PRI D fuel treatment. One of many products on the market that helps maintain the fuel quality in the tank.
 
I had a PDQ 34 with 2 100 HP Yanmars. Many problems were caused by the mesh on the pick up tube. It was highly recommended the remove the mesh and let the racors do their job.
 
Biomass sludge in the fuel tank is the most common cause of loss of power on marine diesel engines. Bar none. Particularly on boats that get very little use. Sludge can build up undetected in the bottom of a tank for years and the engine can run fine idling in the slip or puttering around calm water. Then when the boat hits choppy water for the first time the fuel sloshes around and stirs up the sludge. Bingo, clogged filters. It's not only pleasure boats that have this happen to them. It happens to commercial operators/fishermen all the time. The problem is easily avoided by adding fuel additives and biocide as mentioned above. However most people only do so when fuel is added. And it's not practical to continue putting additives into the same volume of fuel. So boats that sit idle for a long time and don't use much fuel are almost guaranteed to have this issue when they return to service. "Back in the day" most fuel tanks had inspection/clean out ports. Fuel polishing can give a false sense of security if it isn't done properly. If the tank isn't stirred somehow and if the regular fuel pickup is used the sludge can just lay there undisturbed. There has to be some way to stir the tank.

Removing the in-tank screen was a good move.

I add FPPF and Biobor with every gallon of fuel that goes in the tank and a "shock" dose at start of season. And the tank stays full through the off season. We still get a few ounces of water out of the primary filter bowl when the tank gets stirred up during our first trip of the season.
 
The only tow I've ever had in a sailboat was when the crud clogged the intake line and it wouldn't start.

Often (but not always) the first sign of this is dropping RPMs in rough weather where the tank get stirred up, before total blockage and failure.

Additives help, but don't solve the problem. The absolute most important thing is that you keep the tank FULL or mostly full whenever you aren't operating the boat to minimize condensation in the tank. It's a little less important if you live in a dry climate (Seattle in the summer, but not in the winter) but in the northeast absolutely critical.
 
This issue I had was NOT caused by bacteria in the fuel. It was rust and other such debris delivered into the tank by fuel filling locations.

I have been told the algae that lives in diesel fuel actually lives in the water at the bottom of a tank and simply feeds on the fuel. The stuff that blocks filters is dead algae cells.
 
2savage":2nvgi72a said:
This issue I had was NOT caused by bacteria in the fuel. It was rust and other such debris delivered into the tank by fuel filling locations.

I have been told the algae that lives in diesel fuel actually lives in the water at the bottom of a tank and simply feeds on the fuel. The stuff that blocks filters is dead algae cells.

I agree your issue was probably not algae but it was MICROBIAL GROWTH.

" significant discoloration of the internal element after it had been removed and cut open. So now the fuel pickup tube was pulled from the tank and what we found was shocking. Thick black crud blocked the entire gauze mesh that serves as a primary defense to fuel debris"


The thick black Crud" This growth forms in a fuel tank that has water in it. The Microbial Bacteria needs two things to grow (food)- diesel fuel and water. The water sits in that 1" layer of unused fuel that can not be removed because the fuel pickup does not reach the bottom of the tank. The bottom 4 gallons in the tank collects dirt, rust, and water over time. These contaminants are usually from fuel docks. Condensation is not usually a large contributor to water in the tank but it can play a small roll. The rust and dirt and other debris usually does not cause harm if the filters are replaced as recommended. The fuel filter will collect the debris and not let it pass through. The "Black crud " Microbial material" is a gummy sticky substance that will cause the filter to get dark and restrict the filters flow. Just as it did to the fuel pick up screen. ( that screen should not be used in a diesel engine application). The technician removed the screen ! Why? There should not be a screen there. Why was the screen there ? Because tank manufactures build tanks for gas and diesel same tank different fuel use. The screen is installed as a safety requirement by the ABYC for gas powered boats that require an anti-siphon valve be installed at the tank. The screen is to stop larger debris from being pulled up the tube and getting lodged in the check valve. Diesel powered boats are not required and should not have anti-syphon valves installed at the tank.

The issue that you had is a common issue with diesel powered boats that are not maintained, low hours, or not used for a period of time. If the boat is used often, it will have a continual replenishing of fresh fuel. The contaminants that are introduced into the tank are mixed over and over again and are slowly pulled from the tank and caught in the filter. The water is also removed from continual use or natural fuel polishing from the diesels fuel system ( Diesel engine fuel systems pump up to 50 to 60 gallons of fuel in an hour. The engines burn 2 to 6 gph all of the fuel pumped is run through the fuel filters and the unused fuel is returned back to the fuel tank. ( the returned fuel is polished) A dirty tank with old fuel and crud will foul a filter quickly)

Your warning to all is a good one. The fuel tank maintenance and fuel system in boats is usually over looked when purchasing a used boat. Both Gas and diesel fuel degrades quickly because of the new requirements, additives that have been added or removed from the fuel to make it compliant with EPA standards.
 
You say "The rust and dirt and other debris usually does not cause harm if the filters are replaced as recommended."

Again, my point here is that the gauze filter on the pickup tube is BEFORE the other filters so replacing of primary or secondary filters in this case is irrelevant.
 
2savage":37bvzggb said:
Again, my point here is that the gauze filter on the pickup tube is BEFORE the other filters so replacing of primary or secondary filters in this case is irrelevant.


Usually the large debris that can not pass thought the screen does not foul the screen.That is the only purpose of that screen to prevent large particulate form gettin stuck in the anti syphon valve in a Gas powered boat! The debris that does pass through the screen is captured by the filtering system Primary 10 micron or in some cases 30 micron and secondary 2 micron. The issue with the screen used in a diesel application is if there is a constancy of "MICROBIAL GROWTH" (THICK BLACK CRUD BLOCKED THE MESH SCREEN ) The screen gets fouled with this tar like substance. It was not all the rest and debris that blocked the screen it was the sticky black Crud.

The black crud had fouled your primary filter based on your first post.
" issues and the mechanic started at the primary filter, which was new and should not have been suspect. It did however show significant discoloration of the internal element after it had been removed and cut open."

While that mesh screen may seem like a filtering element to you. It really is not.It will allow fairly large particulate to pass through it. That particulate will not pass through a 30, 10 or 2 micron filter.

The fact of the matter is the screen on the pick-up tube should not be there any way! The black crud should not be there either if the tank is maintained. The debris, rust, dirt and small debris is inevitable ! The fuel comes from refineries ( carbon steel pipes ) Then into Tanker Trucks, Then into under ground fiberglass tanks or above ground Carbon steel tanks. It should be filtered at each step but the finer particulates get by and end up in your tank. There is nothing you can do about that. Filters are designed to maintain this issue.

I went through extensive work on my last boat C26 to prevent what happened to you from happening to me. Its called preventative maintenance. In your case the previous owner may have neglected some maintenance or not used the boat much. Now that you have a known clean fuel system with proper maintenance this will never happen to you again. When changing the fuel filters there are warning signs. Each time you drain the filter housing and capture the fuel, inspect it, water ? rust? debris? filter element light brown to medium brown ? YES , the filter is doing its job and you are doing preventative maintenance. If during the inspection you notice that the filter is dark brown with significant discoloration you have a problem and it is time to look into the tank. If you don't you may be "dead" in the water!

A simple installation of a inspection port that will allow you to insert a pick up tube into the tank placing it to the bottom and pulling a sample will tell the story of what is going on in the tank.

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52966 The second port from the left has a pipe plug that can be removed. I use a 1/8" stainless steel tube and insert it in the tank though the opening I attach this tubing to a oil pump and pull a sample from the bottom of the tank. The sample should look like clean diesel fuel. In all my samples taken it always did.
Enjoy your new to you R29 there will be some great cruising experiences in the future. Good Luck.
 
Alan / 2Aavage,

3 questions, please:
1. What error code was being thrown on the Yanmar engine dash interface? “Check engine”? I assume you got the P0088 code after the diagnostic computer was plugged in.
2. What year R29 do you have?
3. How easy/accessible was it for you to get assess to the tank to pull out the pick-up line and mesh?

Thank you in advance?

Scott
 
Hi,
I don't think Savage II is on the forum anymore as i bought his boat. He has a youtube channel called Savage Expedition Trawler. But his old Ranger Tug was a 2010 R29 and it ran well for me last year. Also he did have all the injectors replaced after this fuel issue .
 
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