Tips On R23 Upgrade/Repair Access

[az9133bm]

We've been asked to provide some tips on accessing the guts of an R23. We thought others might be interested in our experience to best access the R23 for upgrades and repair:

There are five access points that are the gateway drugs to R23 upgrades (in order of priority):

1. Starboard recessed light
2. Starboard panel
3. Refrigerator
4. Overhead panel
5. Head bulkhead

Starboard recessed light:

- Gently use a channel lock to rotate the bezel and remove screws.
- Just let the light dangle there is no need to remove it or the base.

Starboard panel (wire-way):

• No need to remove the porthole trim.
• Loosen the base teak trim by removing the screws. You will not be able to remove the base trim yet.

First removal is the hardest. Yes, FM used brad staples...really... As best as you can pry the panel ripping the brads away from the star board behind. There is a solid teak edge trim attached to the teak plywood that is stapled through to the star board behind. Start at the top (this is why removing the recessed light is first step). If you're careful and methodical you can avoid damaging the teak trim and veneer plywood.

• Once the top of the panel is clear of the light fixture, gently pull up and out.
• Install four small stainless screws in the teak edge trim to engage the star board to replace the brads and make for easy removal in the future.
• The technique for installation/removal is "hinge" out/in from the top by just clearing the recessed light fixture base.

Refrigerator:

• Remove the door, hinges and brackets.
• There are four screws recessed in the face trim. Remove.
• Place heavy cardboard on the floor in front of the fridge.
• Gently pull/walk the fridge all of the way out.
• FM provided sufficient length on the power lead so no need to remove the wire.
• Once the fridge is out, gently slide aft on the cardboard. Be ready for a boatload of construction debris...

Overhead panel:

• Easy: remove four screws.
• Prepare yourself to be showered by construction debris.

Head bulkhead:

• Remove bottom shelf behind head by removing screws.
• Remove bulkhead by removing screws.

We installed easy access panels for subsequent ease of access:

1. Below the throttle in the helm area.
2. In the head bulkhead.
3. On the main power panel in the cave.

A couple of other points:

1. The wiring harnesses and electrical installation used by FM can only be described as DIRTY DIAPERS; hanging loose, nasty, and ugly.
2. The NMNA 2000 bus is inaccessible, mounted in the worse possible place behind the helm station. We moved ours to the area behind the head bulkhead easily accessible through the access panel we installed.
3. Snaking wires between the cabin ceiling liner and the deck between the overhead access and the starboard wire-way is tricky and requires care not to damage existing wires. Removing the trim around the deck hatch can help if the snake gets wedged.
4. Water tanks and associated tank plumbing/fittings are inaccessible..FM, really...?? We haven't figured out how to get there yet. Likely, will have to cut cabin sole if ever we need to get there...

 

[OverTime]

We've been asked to provide some tips on accessing the guts of an R23. We thought others might be interested in our experience to best access the R23 for upgrades and repair:

View attachment 27685View attachment 27686View attachment 27687View attachment 27688

There are five access points that are the gateway drugs to R23 upgrades (in order of priority):

1. Starboard recessed light
2. Starboard panel
3. Refrigerator
4. Overhead panel
5. Head bulkhead

Starboard recessed light:

- Gently use a channel lock to rotate the bezel and remove screws.
- Just let the light dangle there is no need to remove it or the base.

Starboard panel (wire-way):

• No need to remove the porthole trim.
• Loosen the base teak trim by removing the screws. You will not be able to remove the base trim yet.

First removal is the hardest. Yes, FM used brad staples...really... As best as you can pry the panel ripping the brads away from the star board behind. There is a solid teak edge trim attached to the teak plywood that is stapled through to the star board behind. Start at the top (this is why removing the recessed light is first step). If you're careful and methodical you can avoid damaging the teak trim and veneer plywood.

• Once the top of the panel is clear of the light fixture, gently pull up and out.
• Install four small stainless screws in the teak edge trim to engage the star board to replace the brads and make for easy removal in the future.
• The technique for installation/removal is "hinge" out/in from the top by just clearing the recessed light fixture base.

Refrigerator:

• Remove the door, hinges and brackets.
• There are four screws recessed in the face trim. Remove.
• Place heavy cardboard on the floor in front of the fridge.
• Gently pull/walk the fridge all of the way out.
• FM provided sufficient length on the power lead so no need to remove the wire.
• Once the fridge is out, gently slide aft on the cardboard. Be ready for a boatload of construction debris...

Overhead panel:

• Easy: remove four screws.
• Prepare yourself to be showered by construction debris.

Head bulkhead:

• Remove bottom shelf behind head by removing screws.
• Remove bulkhead by removing screws.

We installed easy access panels for subsequent ease of access:

1. Below the throttle in the helm area.
2. In the head bulkhead.
3. On the main power panel in the cave.

A couple of other points:

1. The wiring harnesses and electrical installation used by FM can only be described as DIRTY DIAPERS; hanging loose, nasty, and ugly.
2. The NMNA 2000 bus is inaccessible, mounted in the worse possible place behind the helm station. We moved ours to the area behind the head bulkhead easily accessible through the access panel we installed.
3. Snaking wires between the cabin ceiling liner and the deck between the overhead access and the starboard wire-way is tricky and requires care not to damage existing wires. Removing the trim around the deck hatch can help if the snake gets wedged.
4. Water tanks and associated tank plumbing/fittings are inaccessible..FM, really...?? We haven't figured out how to get there yet. Likely, will have to cut cabin sole if ever we need to get there...

"We haven't figured out how to get there yet. Likely, will have to cut cabin sole if ever we need to get there..."

This is where I sell the boat.