Towing an R-29 CB from Chicago to Anacortes

[mlanger]

I’m going to be finishing my Great Loop cruise in August in Chicago and will be towing my R-29 back to Washington, hopefully in time for the next Rendezvous. I’d like to hear from anyone who has experience towing an R-29 or R-31 across state lines. Right now, I’m looking at the JJ Keller website to possibly get my permits, but would consider other organizations that folks here have experience with. I’m also very interested in getting instructions for prepping the boat for towing and tips for making what will likely be a weeklong drive more bearable. Can you help me prep for the big drive? If you’ve got any information based on your own experience, I’d like to hear from you.

Thanks.

 

[S. Todd]

I am a firm believer in having a padded windshield cover on the boat before towing. Rock damage is costly and far more difficult than calling Safelite for your automobile. Obvious, but still make sure you do it - close and lock all roof hatches (once I failed to do that for a super short haul and it cost a few hundred $). I drain the water tank and tow with as little fuel in the boat as possible for a long haul. I like to travel with heavy items like tools, etc. in the back of the truck rather than in the boat. Velcro wrap the radio antenna to the handrail, I put a section of pipe insulation on it to prevent it from actually touching the handrail. I also put pipe insulation over the mast guy wires and Velcro them to the roof handrail on the port side. You don't want anything flapping in the wind or bouncing around inside the cabin. Put blue painters' tape on the flagpole mount or remove the set screw completely so that it does not vibrate out. Remove the drain plug to completely drain the bilge and in the event you get rain on the way home. Make sure your safety line is on the anchor. All docklines and fenders should be removed and stowed in the truck or somewhere secure. Tie downs on the bow eye holding it back in the event of a quick stop and on the stern eyes. I use only the mesh oversize load signs. The one on the front of the truck needs to breath to keep from cooking the transmission. You can easily attach a mesh one to the rails on the swim platform with zip ties. I cover my horns with plastic bags and blue painters tape and also cover the search light (I hate cleaning off bugs and don't see any reason not to do this)(but others might call it overkill). I have had issues with the cockpit door to the swim platform opening on the highway so blue painters tape holding the latch closed and the door taped will stop that from opening and swinging. 55 MPH is generally the maximum speed for towing an oversize load and only during daylight hours, so plan accordingly. (In my experience, you don't want to go any faster than 60 mph and after dark anyway.) Pick your stops carefully - our truck hooked to the boat takes 60 feet so if the semi-trucks don't fit where you are going you might not either. When not on the highway watch for overhanging tree branches - my last block on our dead-end street is the worst, but I have had issues is various towns on the way to launch ramps. Have a safe trip! We cruise Lakes Michigan and Huron a lot and hope you enjoy your part of the journey as much as we do on those freshwater wonders.

 

[S. Todd]

Our R29 is the Sedan not the Command Bridge, so I don't have tips on what you do about getting that section ready for the long haul. Hopefully someone else will chime in on that aspect. I have only gone through the trouble to get permits in Indiana and Michigan but based on the time and effort that took, l don't think you are making a mistake to have someone with experience do it for you. Every state is different - for example Indiana just requires one permit, Michigan requires three - one for the truck, one for the trailer, and one for the load (the boat). The one time I was stopped, the State Trooper just wanted to see the permits and know what the speed limit was hauling such a load. He was pleasant and was just doing his job (probably wanted a closer look at the boat). Most states also don't let you haul oversize loads on holidays or holiday weekends so plan your trip to avoid the Labor Day holiday.

 

[Bruzer]

Congratulations on nearing the end of your Great Loop experience!

The two previous responses are spot on. Below is my recent towing experience:
Last month, I towed, our new to us, a Ranger 29 S from Pensacola, Fl to the Minneapolis area, a 1,250 mile trip. I used JJ Keller to secure the permits I needed for the 7 states that I traveled through. I highly recommend them. The agents I spoke with were extremely helpful and patient. Because of heavy rain and flooding in the Midwest, they kept me informed if there were any needed route changes as I made the 2 ½ day trip north.
Prior to owning the Ranger, I had owned 4 different sailboats including a J/92 (30’ loa, 10’ beam) that we towed into the Chicago area 6 times for the Chicago to Mackinac sailboat race. I had the boat splashed by Crowley’s, once on the Chicago River when they were in the loop and twice on the Calumet River when they moved their yard to the southside of Chicago. We launched 3 times at Larsen Marine in Waukegan, Il. I highly recommend Larsen’s. They are 50 miles north of downtown Chicago. You will be able to avoid the nasty traffic in Chicago and would have access to I-94 which might be your primary route back to Washington.
I towed the Ranger with a Ram 2500 diesel on a new Float On trailer. The boat and trailer tracked beautifully—no swaying whatsoever. I had brought with me a load leveler hitch, but because of the trailer design I was unable to use it, but I did not need it. Traveling to Florida, I averaged 18-21 mpg. On the return trip with the boat in tow, I averaged about 10 mpg with a low of 9.1 mpg while going through the rolling hills of Arkansas and Missouri. Be sure to check your lug nuts for proper torquing (that’s another story). You will need 2 Oversize Load signs, front of truck and on the stern of the boat along with 6 flags—2 for the front corners of the truck, 2 midship on the boat, and 2 at the corners of the stern of the boat. If you don’t already have them, you can get them at Amazon. I used 2-2” ratchet straps to secure the boat to the trailer. I made sure where the aft straps came in contact with the boat that I had padding to prevent any chafing. The mast was lowered and secured to the cabin top. The VHF antenna was lowered and zip tied to the cabin top hand hold railing. I taped the two wire stays that support the mast to railing. We secured everything in the cabin. The only item that came loose was one of the forward cabin radio speakers.
Safe travels.

 

[glider4]

Great advise above!
I’d add that you need to make sure your trailer tires are not under inflated and are in otherwise very good condition. I check inflation every 500 miles with a visual inspection at every gas stop.
For the trailer bearings I use this to check both bearing and tire temps at very gas or overnight stop as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-IR1- ... 192&sr=8-1

My longest tow was from Kemah, TX to Anacortes, WA a few years back. Towed 2,450 miles in 5 1/2 days taking it easy. Not a wide load and a lighter boat than a R-29 CB though. Snow in late April in Colorado and a trailer flat tire in WY were the only unplanned parts of the trip. I strive to have zero unplanned parts to my towing trips….

PS: For anything longer than a few miles we take the dinghy off the swim platform and put it in the truck bed. Dinghy stern towards cab and bow of dinghy hanging over tailgate. All strapped down of course. Having the dinghy on the swim platform has negative tongue weight impacts, negative trailering sway impacts and just seems like you have a drag chute back there!

 

[S. Todd]

I agree with glider4 on the use of the infra-red thermometer. I typically do a walk around whenever we stop and check the bearing and tire temperatures. Tires and bearings will typically show elevated temperatures before failure. The temperatures will vary depending on the weather, so I typically look for a discrepancy between the six trailer tires and between the six trailer wheel bearings or the six truck tires (dually F350). There will often be a hotter side due to where the sun is hitting them so a less than 10-degree difference from one side to the other is not too much of a concern (as long as the hot side is the side in the sun). Front and rear tires on the truck will also not typically be the same temperature.

 

[mlanger]

First, I need to thank all of you for your quick replies and suggestions. I'm going to go through them in detail now and may have additional questions for you.

This is the best part of having a strong owner community -- we can get answers from others based on their experiences.

 

[mlanger]

I had the boat splashed by Crowley’s, once on the Chicago River when they were in the loop and twice on the Calumet River when they moved their yard to the southside of Chicago. We launched 3 times at Larsen Marine in Waukegan, Il. I highly recommend Larsen’s. They are 50 miles north of downtown Chicago. You will be able to avoid the nasty traffic in Chicago and would have access to I-94 which might be your primary route back to Washington.

I used Crowley's to launch, but the shipper dealt with the traffic. Traffic is a major concern so I will definitely look into Larsen. I assume they have a lift? The trailer has never been in the water and I'm not confident about loading the boat on a ramp. The only reason I lean toward Crowley's is because to technically cross my wake, I need to go past the Chicago River entry onto Lake Michigan. But I could always double back, maybe after a celebration at DuSable Marina.

I towed the Ranger with a Ram 2500 diesel on a new Float On trailer. The boat and trailer tracked beautifully—no swaying whatsoever. I had brought with me a load leveler hitch, but because of the trailer design I was unable to use it, but I did not need it.

I'll be towing with a Ford F350 diesel with the towing package. It's already towed heavier loads. My trailer is a bumper pull, which I'm not happy about -- I prefer goosenecks but beggars can't be choosers. It tracked perfectly when I brought it home from its previous owner in southern Oregon. I'm a little concerned about the hitch and why you couldn't use it. I have an adjustable hitch on order with the heavy equipment guy in my town and I want to make sure it'll work. What was your problem?

Traveling to Florida, I averaged 18-21 mpg. On the return trip with the boat in tow, I averaged about 10 mpg with a low of 9.1 mpg while going through the rolling hills of Arkansas and Missouri. Be sure to check your lug nuts for proper torquing (that’s another story). You will need 2 Oversize Load signs, front of truck and on the stern of the boat along with 6 flags—2 for the front corners of the truck, 2 midship on the boat, and 2 at the corners of the stern of the boat.

I already expect dismal mileage. I'll likely be on I-90, which is all up and down hills through Montana and Idaho. I've towed a 15000 pound fifth wheel in the past; I'm hoping the boat is more streamlined. I have 2 Wide Load signs that came with the trailer. I believe they're mesh. I did not know about the flags. I hope the folks who help me with the permits fill in any other gaps I have in my requirement knowledge.

Thanks for this info.

 

[mlanger]

I’d add that you need to make sure your trailer tires are not under inflated and are in otherwise very good condition. I check inflation every 500 miles with a visual inspection at every gas stop.
For the trailer bearings I use this to check both bearing and tire temps at very gas or overnight stop as well.

I actually have an infrared thermometer. I never thought of using it for this, though. Thanks! I am worried about the brakes and hubs. As for tires, I'm going to have them inspected before I depart Washington and then again when I get to Chicago. My truck tires have several years on them and if there's any question of condition, I'll get them replaced before I head back with the boat. I'm hoping I don't have to replace the trailer tires, too.

PS: For anything longer than a few miles we take the dinghy off the swim platform and put it in the truck bed. Dinghy stern towards cab and bow of dinghy hanging over tailgate. All strapped down of course. Having the dinghy on the swim platform has negative tongue weight impacts, negative trailering sway impacts and just seems like you have a drag chute back there!

Yes, the dinghy will definitely come off. I'll likely remove the motor and stow that inside the truck, then deflate the dinghy and put it in the bed. My boat is stern heavy in the water; I know it will be the same on a trailer.

 

[mlanger]

I agree with glider4 on the use of the infra-red thermometer. I typically do a walk around whenever we stop and check the bearing and tire temperatures. Tires and bearings will typically show elevated temperatures before failure. The temperatures will vary depending on the weather, so I typically look for a discrepancy between the six trailer tires and between the six trailer wheel bearings or the six truck tires (dually F350). There will often be a hotter side due to where the sun is hitting them so a less than 10-degree difference from one side to the other is not too much of a concern (as long as the hot side is the side in the sun). Front and rear tires on the truck will also not typically be the same temperature.

Thanks for this advice. I'll probably record readings in a notebook so I can watch trends. (I'm like that.) Are you actually measuring the temperature of the tires themselves and the bearings? If the tires, then what do you point the thermometer at? Where they touch the road? Sorry if this seems like a dumb question, but I have zero experience at measuring temperatures.

 

[mlanger]

I am a firm believer in having a padded windshield cover on the boat before towing....

What's interesting is that your advice about covering things up is exactly the opposite of what the long-haul trucker who moved it to Chicago for me wanted. No covers at all! He was afraid things would come loose. I had bought ratchet tie-down straps and duct tape to hold down the covers on the command bridge but I had to strip everything off to make him happy. No damage en route, though. I have the snap on canvas cover for my windscreen and will try to secure some bubble wrap under it. I'm sure a windscreen, which is curved, would be costly to replace. All this advice is extremely helpful; thanks so much.

 

[mlanger]

OK, I have a few more questions...

I was hoping to sleep in the boat at overnight stops along the way. Truck stops, probably, parked with the truckers. Has anyone done this? My trip is about 2000 miles. 400-500 miles a day means 4 to 5 days. Fuel is already going to cost me a fortune. I'd sure like to eliminate motel costs and maneuvering my load in motel parking lots if possible.

Has anyone been able to rig up something to use the toilet, which takes in water through the hull? (I know it's a long shot, but a question not asked is never answered.)

What switches need to be turned off for trailering? Master battery switches, I assume. Thruster battery. What else? Do any circuit breakers need to be turned off? Fuses pulled?

Going back to my original question, is it OK to leave house batteries on in transit so I have power to my fridge and DC equipment? What are the dangers of leaving it turned on?

What am I forgetting to ask about?

 

[scross]

We sleep in ours while towing about 6-8 nights a year. Mostly in rest stops in WA state. Every state has different rules about sleeping at rest stops. If you see truckers doing it it’s probably ok. Also you can overnight at Loves and Flying J if they have an area for trucks to do so. We’ve done that too and not had any problems other than one night next to a truck hauling pigs that pulled in after we were in bed.
We carry fresh water and use the faucet (with the long hose for showers) in the head to rinse and flush the toilet.
All switches off except house bank. Our 335 watt solar will power the refrigerator indefinitely. On cold nights we use the diesel heater. For cooking we use the propane cooktop.
We don’t look for an RV campgrounds to overnight because we don’t need AC power. We don’t use the inverter either. If you must have 110 volt power to run air conditioning consider an RV park to overnight. Some will take boats and some won’t. Expect to rig something up to catch gray (sink) water if you are in an RV Park.
Regardless of where we stay we bring up our step ladder, lock the cabin doors and have bear spray plus an air horn just in case. That said, in 14 years of overnighting while towing we have never had an issue.
Obviously you want to start the trip with your black water tank empty. Pumping the boat out while going overland is complicated and something to be avoided if possible.

 

[Eddyprice]

I recommend using a trailer tire TPMS system to monitor pressure and temperature. I’ve used this one for the past couple of years and am happy with it. Or more sophisticated units out there, but this one does it for a reasonable price. Good to be able to know what Trailer tires as you’re going down the road Real time. Tymate RV Tire Pressure Monitoring System M12-3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07PP55Q ... asin_title

 

[mlanger]

We sleep in ours while towing about 6-8 nights a year. Mostly in rest stops in WA state. Every state has different rules about sleeping at rest stops. If you see truckers doing it it’s probably ok. Also you can overnight at Loves and Flying J if they have an area for trucks to do so. ...
We carry fresh water and use the faucet (with the long hose for showers) in the head to rinse and flush the toilet.
All switches off except house bank. Our 335 watt solar will power the refrigerator indefinitely. On cold nights we use the diesel heater. For cooking we use the propane cooktop....

I was planning on overnighting at truck stops. They're actually very well suited for overnight stays, although the noise of refrigerated ("reefer") trucks can be bothersome. My stock solar panel (160w) will probably NOT be able to run the main fridge for my entire trip; I'll see if I can figure out the power draw on the cockpit fridge and, if it's considerably lower, use that instead.

But what's confusing me is the toilet. My toilet draws water from outside the boat -- at least that's what I've been told. It's definitely not using the fresh water pump when I flush. How can I flush with water I bring along for the purpose? In other words, how can I safely (without damaging the toilet or pump) bypass that water source? Any ideas? Or maybe this is a question for Ranger Tug support?

Thanks for your answers!

 

[mlanger]

I recommend using a trailer tire TPMS system to monitor pressure and temperature....Tymate RV Tire Pressure Monitoring System M12-3

Thanks very much for this. I just watched a few videos about it, including some video reviews. Folks seem to like it. It would certainly take a load off my mind. I'll likely give this a shot.

 

[Bruzer]

I used Crowley's to launch, but the shipper dealt with the traffic. Traffic is a major concern so I will definitely look into Larsen. I assume they have a lift? The trailer has never been in the water and I'm not confident about loading the boat on a ramp. The only reason I lean toward Crowley's is because to technically cross my wake, I need to go past the Chicago River entry onto Lake Michigan. But I could always double back, maybe after a celebration at DuSable Marina.

Larsen Marine is a full service marina, and they had a Travel Lift when we launched there. I called in advance of arriving, and they were always ready to launch and to lift-out back on our trailer.

I'll be towing with a Ford F350 diesel with the towing package. It's already towed heavier loads. My trailer is a bumper pull, which I'm not happy about -- I prefer goosenecks but beggars can't be choosers. It tracked perfectly when I brought it home from its previous owner in southern Oregon. I'm a little concerned about the hitch and why you couldn't use it. I have an adjustable hitch on order with the heavy equipment guy in my town and I want to make sure it'll work. What was your problem?

I used a Curt weight distribution hitch that I borrowed from a friend with a 2 5/16” ball used on a bumper pull. The spring bars were not long enough to attach to the brackets where they were able to mount on the Float On trailer I-beams.

I already expect dismal mileage. I'll likely be on I-90, which is all up and down hills through Montana and Idaho. I've towed a 15000 pound fifth wheel in the past; I'm hoping the boat is more streamlined. I have 2 Wide Load signs that came with the trailer. I believe they're mesh. I did not know about the flags. I hope the folks who help me with the permits fill in any other gaps I have in my requirement knowledge.

Thanks for this info.

 

[cmwahl]

I used a Curt weight distribution hitch that I borrowed from a friend with a 2 5/16” ball used on a bumper pull. The spring bars were not long enough to attach to the brackets where they were able to mount on the Float On trailer I-beams.

I’m going to be finishing my Great Loop cruise in August in Chicago and will be towing my R-29 back to Washington, hopefully in time for the next Rendezvous. I’d like to hear from anyone who has experience towing an R-29 or R-31 across state lines. Right now, I’m looking at the JJ Keller website to possibly get my permits, but would consider other organizations that folks here have experience with. I’m also very interested in getting instructions for prepping the boat for towing and tips for making what will likely be a weeklong drive more bearable. Can you help me prep for the big drive? If you’ve got any information based on your own experience, I’d like to hear from you.

Thanks.

Hi, we boaterhome from Arizona to Anacortes with our classic 27. Look for Love's RV travel stops. They are a little bit away from the main truck stop. Also, state parks will take you. We plug into power Using a 30 amp to 15 amp connector. As far as shower and toilet, use the bathroom sink spigot to add water to the toilet. my husband made a manifold that sticks into the thru-hulls for the kitchen, bathroom sinks and shower sump pump. This connects to a garden hose that uses a sewer connection for a full hookup. You can do a similar connection to the macerator thru-hull to the sewer that is all neat and tidy for those parks that want everything tightly connected.

 

[CaspersCruiser]

I used a Curt weight distribution hitch that I borrowed from a friend with a 2 5/16” ball used on a bumper pull. The spring bars were not long enough to attach to the brackets where they were able to mount on the Float On trailer I-beams.

Weight distribution hitches not approved for use with some aluminum I-Beam trailers. Check with the manufacturer.

 

[glider4]

Weight distribution hitches not approved for use with some aluminum I-Beam trailers. Check with the manufacturer.

I’d say MOST ‘manufacturers do t approve. You will literally bend the aluminum I-Beam with a WDH.