Towing Ranger 27

[Alibi27]

Preparing to have boat towed on its own trailer 1200 miles.
Is it advisable to remove the radar dome when dropping the mast and store padded inside.
Seems like it would create a bit of a moment arm in the down position on its support pole even with guys snugged up.
Same with a Rocna #10 ( 22 lbs) which fits nicely in the bow roller but the self launching arm tends to move up and down slightly no matter how tightly the end of the anchor shaft tied to the cleat in front of the windlass.
Any other tips are welcomed.
First long haul.
Dick Keith
Ranger 27 Alibi

 

[scross]

Just some trailer basics that I'm sure you know but didn't mention:
1. Tires checked for wear and condition and are properly inflated
2. Have a way to jack up the trailer if you need to put on the spare tire
3. Make sure the axle hubs have plenty of grease
4. Double check the action of the surge brakes including knowing if you can back the trailer without activating the trailer brakes
5. All trailer lights work even if not towing at night

I have two long towing trips (over 1,500 miles each) with my 242 Monterey Cruiser getting it from Kemah, TX to Anacortes, WA and #1 (tire blister) and #2 (see #1) both became an issue for me.

Good luck!

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Dick:

I would not take the radar dome off when lowering the mast for towing or otherwise. With that said I use a round wire lock pin as added security when placing the mast in the down position when I secure the mast to the deck post. The pin that came with my mast almost came out on one long distance trailering....can only imagine the damage a bouncing mast could have caused on the bow of our boat. On the anchor, any anchor, I connect a lanyard line to the anchor (roll bar on the rocna) and tie the bitter end off on the cleat just behind the windlass. This method holds the anchor in a tight position wether on the water or while trailering and acts as a safety measure in the event the windlass wheel lets loose. I'd also suggests you have tie down straps to secure the transom of your boat to the trailer and another from the bow trailer hook down to the trailer.....keeps everything where its supposed to be.

Jim

 

[Scuffy]

I would make sure your trailer tires are balanced. The radar dome I think will be fine. Coat it with dishwashing soap so the bugs come off easier. Make sure the tires are inflated to recommended pressures and also check the spare. Get radial tires on the trailer if possible. We use a 4" wide ratchet strap from each side of the trailer frame over the gunnels in the cockpit. Towels under the strap to prevent it from whipping the jel coat to death.We also would add a stainless steel turnbuckle arrangement 1/2 inch threads from the trailer to the boats bow eye. We u bolt the bottom part of the turnbuckle to the trailer using aluminum channel and a 1/2 bow eye and then a length of chain a then use a shackle to the bow eye. We don't go crazy tightening it down. Just tighten it up and get some tension and use the jamb nuts to hold the position on the turnbuckle. Some folks carry a complete spindle set up complete with bearings etc. with the spare tire mounted on it. I usually use my fingers and hands to feel the hubs and tires every time I stop. Some carry infra red thermometers with a aiming laser to take temps of wheels and hubs. I added gussets to the right angle aluminum brackets that hold my rear lights. I throw AWAY the standard license plate holder as they eventually break anyway. I use a 10'' piece of conveyor belting and put a 1/4 backing plate behind my license plate. I put the conveyor belting under my rear light and bolt that up then use four stainless 1/4 x 20 stainless steel bolts to fasten the license and backing plate to the lower portion of the conveyor belt material. If that were not enough I fashioned small cables from the light brackets to the top two bolts of the license plate using 90 pound stranded fishing wire with crimps to make the license plate stays with us. I carry a 3' long 4"x 4" piece of wood should I need to change a tire and a decent 4 way chrome lug wrench to break loose the lug nuts that the tire guy installed with an impact wrench. If your like me you will use never seez or wheel bearing grease on the lug nuts. We added extra bracing for our Float On trailers fenders to minimize the shaking around which causes them to crack. It's a good idea to check all your brake lines for signs of rubbing. I slit clear plastic tubing and zip tie them in place to prevent brake line failures. Your trailer tongue should be dead level when you are loaded. We carry about 700 pounds of tongue weight. I might slide the boat up an inch or two as I think I could use a little bit more tongue weight. Our truck with boat on the trailer weigh a little over18,000 pounds. The boat an R-27 and trailer weighs in at about 10,000. Safe travels

 

[Captain Steve]

If you put just 1 twist in your strap it will not flutter in the wind, wearing away the gel coat.

 

[Irish Mist]

hope all goes well with your tow. With my boat I find keeping the bow sunged down to the trailer makes a huge difference. I just rachet strap it down. Check all your tie downs and bearings whenever you stop.As well on your first stop go inside the boat and see what you didn't put away properly. 🙂 One thing I started doing is I wrap a rag around the turn buckle for the mast guy wires and zip tie it in place, as with mine they were rubbing a bit on the gel coat. As well I zip tie the VHF antenna down. Then just enjoy the trip

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Another thing to do is to take the cockpit canvas completely off of the boat and stow in your truck. Once off fold the stainless support bars forward so they are all bunched together. I use zip ties and or heavy duty velcro to secure everything in place.

Jim

 

[Crewdog]

Don't forget to pull up after fueling at the truck stop before you go in to pay; gives the guy behind you a chance to start his fueling and get back on the road.

 

[Alibi27]

Thanks for all the helpful advice.
I do have a wide ratchet tie down strap to go from the trailer beam across the cockpit to the opposite trailer beam.
Plenty of soft padding for wear areas.
There is a strong turnbuckle to snug down the bow from the bow eyebolt.
I have repacked the hubs and am having the rusted calipers and rotors replaced.
Have heard too many horror stories about brake problems on long hauls.
Trust our interior packing and cushioning will do the job.
Again, thanks for the speedy advice.
Dick Keith
Alibi

 

[knotflying]

Regarding the brakes and calipers, I replaced mine with all stainless steel. A big difference even with the braking power. I also carry an insect sprayer filled with salt away. After I dunk the trailer in salt water I spray the wheel assembly's to get the salt water off of them especially if no hose is available to do a good flushing.

 

[nzfisher]

I read some folks put bubble wrap under the window canvas while doing long hauls. More rock protection. I have not done it but will next time I haul. You might add to your list.

 

[S. Todd]

Do others actually tow with the window canvas on? I have always towed my Sea Rays with full road covers and it keeps things nice and clean but was concerned about using the snap on window covering if one of the snaps let go while traveling and what damage the slapping canvas in the wind might do to the painted window frames even if the snaps held. I was planning on just washing off the bugs when I get to the lake, but if the canvas is a good thing to leave on, I as a new Ranger Tug owner am listening for any advice(its a couple hundred miles to get to the lake so there will be bugs).

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

We never leave the window cover on, for the snap reason you mentioned and besides if I did leave it on I'd have a bug stained window cover. I find its easier to clean the window glass.

Jim