Towing with the R21

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Icetug

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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
140' CG icebreaker
My question is about the suitability of towing another vessel with the R21. Has anyone installed a towing bit on one? How about the side cleats, are they substantial and do they have heavy backing plates? My goal is to be able to stern and side tow a 35-40 foot live aboard barge type vessel limited distances and have the tug to use as a separate vessel when the barge is on the hook in a marina.

I realize that the R21 has a very small engine and speeds would be very slow. I am guessing in the neighborhood of 4-5 knots. The ability to buck wind and tide would be low also. There are just few options for small tug type vessels without going to an expensive steel commercial vessel.
 
I have towed several times, mostly sailboats and small power boats such as a Bertram 28, a Newport 27, and other sailboats in that range. The Newport was an open ocean tow for 10 miles on the way home from Catalina. I'm not sure of your towing experience but with a little practice it tows well. The sail boats are almost unnoticeable but a big displacement boat is not bad until its time to stop. Due to the natural weak backing power of the small direct drive prop. Its not too bad if you just think ahead a little. I rigged up a simple bridle for the open ocean tow from the two aft cleats and every thing else has been on the hip. just make sure when you are hipped up to a tow, your as far back as possible and your prop and rudder stick out past the transom of your tow. I'm always looking for something to tow it just feels good.
 
I looked at the backside of the rear cleats on my new R21-EC using a mirror. There is some kind of backing material about 1/2" thick that is covered with fiberglass. The backing material does not appear to be metal, as is usually the recommended material (either 1/4" stainless steel or aluminum plate). On my boat, the rear port side cleat installation missed the backing. On the starboard side, the cleat installation goes through the backing, but just barely on the side of it.

In an earlier post on May 18, 2010, Andrew Custis made this comment about using the cleats for towing,
"After talking with John Livingston about this, we both agree that using the stern eyes on the aft of the boat is a better idea. We lift the boat by those and that will be better for you all around. Easy to get to as well on the R21."

On my boat, the stern eyes have the same type of backing as the cleats, and they are properly installed through the backing.

When towing, I recommend using a harness that attaches to both sides of your boat (either the cleats or stern eyes). The the tow line should be attached to the harness. The harness should have floats so that it cannot sink and get caught in your prop.
 
Thanks for the comments. The is a problem with towing from the stern eyes with a bridle. It would not be possible to adjust the length of the tow line to obtain the proper cantenary (dip). If the cantenary is improper then shocks will transmit up the line to the towing and towed vessel as sea conditions cause surging. That is why you see cross shaped bitts on the stern of tugs and the Coast Guard boats that perform tows. I am sure some type of configuration could be fitted up to allow for this on a R21. It sounds like the R21 does have the capability to tow a reasonably sized vessel.

And how awesome would it look to have a bow pudding hanging off the nose? Although, I could probably forgo a row of old lawn mower tires down the side.
 
I'm a 26 year Coast Guard Auxiliary member and have been towing boats for many of those years.
The recommended length for the bridle should be 3 times the span between the stern eyes.
The length of the actual line should be adjustable to keep the tow "in step"; both vessels on the same part of a wave (climbing, top or the trough).
Just some additional info.
Bill
 
You may have to change the prop to get the gearing right for pulling a load. As I remember these 4 blade props also fit high speed drag style boats and may be needing a pitch change to be a barge puller. Bob Heselberg in Eatonville Wa
 
Since putting the "Queen Bee" into service as an Auxiliary Facility, we've had no issues with stern or side tows. On inland lakes the biggest thing we are likely to encounter is a bass boat or aluminum skiff. If we do end up with a disabled house or patio boat our practice is to call the marina and stand by while they send out something bigger. We did add 4x 8" cleats, two amidships and the remaining pair mounted at an angle just forward of the transom. This gives us several towing options with our bridle and various lengths of tow line. Each of the large cleats is backed with a 3x5" piece of 1/2" marine grade plywood and bolted through with Grade 5 stainless hardware. We also added backing plates to the two existing 8" cleats on the bow for good measure.

Cheers and Happy Sailing
Bob n Brenda
Queen Bee
R21
 
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