trailer light

[Two killicks]

While reading on the net, I noticed that some people unplug the lights on their trailer prior to put it in the water, Is this an important step prior to put the trailer in the water? I am getting a 2 axle with electric brake built for my tug, but I have never put a boat in the water before, I thought that I ask, it's better be safe than sorry...

thanks

 

[SGIDAVE]

While reading on the net, I noticed that some people unplug the lights on their trailer prior to put it in the water, Is this an important step prior to put the trailer in the water? I am getting a 2 axle with electric brake built for my tug, but I have never put a boat in the water before, I thought that I ask, it's better be safe than sorry...

thanks

HEllo Pat,

I believe "best practice" recommendation is to unplug the trailer lights from your tow vehicle prior to dunking into the water. A long time ago, I had a 1997 Chev Suburban that would reliably blow a fuse to the trailer lights if I failed to unplug... but with my present 2011 Chev Silverado pickup - no problems.

The plug to your 21EC trailer should have 5 prongs...one is to a solenoid which blocks the surge brake mechanism from engaging so you can back up without the trailer's brakes stopping you. ONce you are backing DOWN the incline of the boat ramp, the trailer won't be trying to stop you, so if you are disconnected from the tow vehicle there's no issue. Unplugging from the trailer is just another thing to do at a critical time of backing down the ramp. You will develop your own system.

Personally, I don't worry about it (unhooking the lights). Prior to backing down the ramp, I've unhooked the boat from the trailer realizing there is SLIGHT risk of the boat launching prematurely (i.e., onto the ramp rather than into the water). My trailer is a BUNK type so the risk of the boat sliding off too soon is almost nonexistent. Anyway, I don't want to stop AGAIN to unplug the trailer as it doesn't seem to be an issue with my present truck/trailer. Again, BEST PRACTICE is no keep your boat secured to the trailer until you have backed into the water and the aft end is floating - the DVD that comes with your trailer will demonstrate this technique. Certainly, no one wants their boat to fall off the trailer onto the ramp and, if your have a ROLLER type trailer then NEVER UNHOOK EARLY, but with a bunk trailer there is enough friction to keep the boat on the trailer until she's well into the water.

Also, my trailer has LED lights which are probably tolerate dunking whilst ON better than standard incandescent bulbs would. Unhooking the old style is probably good advise. Will your new trailer have LEDs? I think they are better (both brighter and more durable than filament-style lights).

dave

 

[Two killicks]

Hello Dave,

Thanks for taking the time to explain this issue to me. My trailer will have bunks and LED lights. I choose to have a 2 axle trailer because I find that this is more stable on the road and if I ever have a flat tire on the trailer while driving, the rig will be more stable... I had a flat on a trailer with a single axle once, the trailer was pulling so hard towards the ditch, that I almost lost control of the truck. never again!

Once again, thanks for the reply

Pat

 

[knotflying]

Dave is dead on. Removing the power to the lights was more critical with standard bulbs since the connections were not sealed and they were hot and quick quenching could kill them. You mentioned that you has electric brakes, I think they may be electric over hydraulic, but I could be wrong, If they are as I assume, make sure your controller in the truck is compatible with the brake unit. Also check your battery for the emergency brake by pulling the pin and making sure the brakes engage. You will here the unit whine when it engages,

 

[Two killicks]

This is the trailer that I am going to get I am quite sure that it's 100% electric brake. either way with my F1 50 if it's hydraulic over electric I am fine

http://www.excalibur-trailers.ca/traile ... f4555b.htm

When I am looking at the pictures, it seems like they are normal Bulb lights on the trailer.

 

[S. Todd]

It is a little difficult to tell from those pictures but I see no Electric over hydraulic braking system on that trailer and at that price I doubt that is what it has. I suspect it has surge brakes which for the weight of a 21 is fine. The photos appear to show brake lines to the front axle but I do not see them on the rear axle. You might want to verify that it has brakes on both, although again at the weight of a 21 it might not be that crucial, but in some states the law requires them on all axles.

 

[knotflying]

Yeah, I can't tell from the description or the picture what the brake actuation is. I would verify what it is just so you know what you are getting. Every state has different regulations when it comes to trailers and braking system v weight capacity. Just check to make sure what you are getting is okay for registration in your state.

 

[SGIDAVE]

This is the trailer that I am going to get I am quite sure that it's 100% electric brake. either way with my F1 50 if it's hydraulic over electric I am fine

http://www.excalibur-trailers.ca/traile ... f4555b.htm

When I am looking at the pictures, it seems like they are normal Bulb lights on the trailer.

Hello Pat,

Perhaps those pics on the webpage are a "generic" trailer? As it appears, I don't think it will adequately support a 21EC. My trailer, and others I've seen, have a support for the keel toward the aft as well as one forward - approx 1 foot or so aft of the bow thruster. The "bunks" are turned so the broad side is 'up' (or against the hull), and while they carry some load, the strongest part of the hull - the keel - bears a lot too. As shown in the pic, with the narrow edge of the bunk against the hull, there is TOO LITTLE surface area to support your hull in a 'healthy' fashion.

Here is a listing for a NICE 21EC with a trailer set up like I'm talking about. Click on the two pics in this listing to see the AFT and FORWARD keel supports.

dave

 

[Two killicks]

It is an example for this class of trailer. My trailer will be custom made for the 21ec 😉

I looked at the 2 picture that you mentionned, it is nice !

 

[Scuffy]

If your brakes are pure electric brakes like the type used on RV trailers. I would do my best to avoid salt water. I would unplug the cord from the truck when launching. I think you will have a controller to regulate how much force you want to have on the trailer brakes They are the cheapest of all trailer brake systems. As far as I know they are only available as drum brakes. Some report good results with them in fresh water. Heavier boats usually go with hydraulic discs brakes and an electric over hydraulic master cylinder that lets you adjust how much braking you set the controller to. Slippery conditions as opposed to dry roads. As with yours or electric over hydraulic brakes with no boat on trailer you need to adjust the gain on the controller way down (lower setting) as you will easily lock up the trailer tires if you use a lot of pressure on the brake pedal. Thus making flat spots on your tires by locking up the wheels. 😱

 

[Two killicks]

I'll have to ask the trailer shop to find out what's the deal with it. Up here it's all fresh water, but one of those day, we might go to the States with the boat in salty water. I'll keep that in mind if the brake are electric.