Trailering Wiring Connections

[joempo]

I want to know what steps others have taken to ensure a good connection for truck-to-trailer/boat lights. As we are aware, due to the salt-water environment the connectors corrode, making for poor connections which lead to flickering or no lights whatsoever.
I've been thinking about trying applying a small amount of copper-based anti-seize lubricant to the individual pins. I believe, if done carefully so as to not short across circuits, it would protect the pins from corrosion and, when connected, would promote a good electrical connection.
Any thoughts or other ideas?

 

[Osprey]

Dielectric silicone compound is made for moisture proofing and protecting electrical connections. It is generally available at better auto supply stores. It is a bit expensive but a little goes a "long way".

 

[Scuffy]

Vaseline works, cheap or an old tube of chap stick. The chap stick also twisted into the spring side of your canvas snaps helps. A shot of WD 40 can't hurt you trailer plug and truck's socket.
D.D.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Another option is a product called Corrosion Block. Corrosion Block is a spray similar to Dielectric Grease however it works its way deeper into the electrical connector and wire for better, more lasting protection. It is a little pricey but it works, as we've never had any problems with our trailer and or boat lights not working. I used dielectric for our first 2 years of trailering Kismet and the Corrosion Block for the last 1 1/2 years. I got the tip on Corrosion Block from fellow Tugnut Mike Rizzo.

Jim F

 

[knotflying]

You also need to check all the connections down the line that run along the trailer to the rear. There are several. I disconnect them clean, apply corrosion block and swab a little silicone caulk on the joint after I reconnect. So far, no issues.