Trim tab zincs gone after 3 months

Can someone post a picture of a trim tab with zinc on? My Ranger 25 did not come with zinc on the tabs. I curious how these install and if they interfere with the water dynamic of the trim tab when operating at higher speeds. They seem like they would be quick to install if they look like what I', imagining.
 
SEEKER":1hi14pq4 said:
Can someone post a picture of a trim tab with zinc on? My Ranger 25 did not come with zinc on the tabs. I curious how these install and if they interfere with the water dynamic of the trim tab when operating at higher speeds. They seem like they would be quick to install if they look like what I', imagining.
Click to expand...

These are the ones that I am using. Very easy to install.

http://www.boatzincs.com/bennett-trim-t ... e-kit.html

Howard
 
SEEKER":2sr2u7ts said:
Can someone post a picture of a trim tab with zinc on? My Ranger 25 did not come with zinc on the tabs. I curious how these install and if they interfere with the water dynamic of the trim tab when operating at higher speeds. They seem like they would be quick to install if they look like what I', imagining.
Click to expand...

The dealer installed 3-3/4" rudder/trimtab zincs on on the trimtabs of my R-25. Here is a link that shows a picture of the zincs at boatzincs.com. Installing this type of zinc requires a 1/4" hole to be drilled through the trim tab. I get some errosion on the trimtabs zincs but when I replaced them this spring I weighed the zincs I removed and they were only 30% to 40% gone after spending five months in brackish water. The same could not be said for the other zincs on the boat which were severly eroded. I installed a galvanic isolator on the boat over the winter so hopefully that will help this year with the zincs connected to the boats grounding system.

http://www.boatzincs.com/rudder-sizes.html
 
Just a note on placement of the guppy. I found it works well by runnnig a ground wire from the engine to a large bolt which I inserted under the wash out fitting in the cockpit consul. This way I never have to open the engine hatch. All I do is unclamp the large alligator clip and store the guppy when under way.
 
Ken Boyd":21npoa0b said:
SEEKER":21npoa0b said:
Can someone post a picture of a trim tab with zinc on? My Ranger 25 did not come with zinc on the tabs. I curious how these install and if they interfere with the water dynamic of the trim tab when operating at higher speeds. They seem like they would be quick to install if they look like what I', imagining.
Click to expand...

The dealer installed 3-3/4" rudder/trimtab zincs on on the trimtabs of my R-25. Here is a link that shows a picture of the zincs at boatzincs.com. Installing this type of zinc requires a 1/4" hole to be drilled through the trim tab. I get some errosion on the trimtabs zincs but when I replaced them this spring I weighed the zincs I removed and they were only 30% to 40% gone after spending five months in brackish water. The same could not be said for the other zincs on the boat which were severly eroded. I installed a galvanic isolator on the boat over the winter so hopefully that will help this year with the zincs connected to the boats grounding system.

http://www.boatzincs.com/rudder-sizes.html
Click to expand...

Where on the trim tab did they mount these? The vertical section at the back of the tab or on the horizontal section? These look pretty big, which maybe why they were slow to degrade.?
 
SEEKER":2trp7o9x said:
Where on the trim tab did they mount these? The vertical section at the back of the tab or on the horizontal section? These look pretty big, which maybe why they were slow to degrade.?
Click to expand...
[/quote][/quote]

They are mounted in the middle of the trim tab blade (the part that moves up and down). Latterally, they are set off a little to one side so they will clear the trim tab actuator assembly.
 
An update after a second season in the water. Our R27 was launched the first week of April and hauled the last week of October. It was in salt water the entire time and connected to shore power while docked at the marina (Warwick, RI). The zinc anode life was significantly better. I did the following prior to launch last year.

1. Installed a Galvanic Isolator. (Guest 30 Amp Fail Safe)
2. Primed the trim tabs with two coats of epoxy primer (Interlux 2000E) and two coats of bottom paint (Micron CSC).
3. Used a hanging zinc while at the marina. (HangTuff from BoatZincs.com)

After the full season the trim tab zincs have more than 50% remaining. The prop zinc has about 30% remaining. The hanging zinc has some loss but should be good for a few more years. The trim tabs had no marine growth at haul out, I had spent a lot of time cleaning them the previous year. The primer/bottom paint did a great job!

Howard
 
Hi all, this may be a rookie comment, but in reading this thread it seems to me the major issue is the electrical systems in the place of mooring, if so will a galvanic isolator not improve on that?

--Jurgen
 
My boat is always in salt water. Lifted it out today for a pressure wash and zinc change. I usually find zincs need replacing in 4 or so months. Today -- after being in the water since mid July -- all zincs okay with at least 60% on each (shaft, trim tabs and thrusters). What's different? I have power problems at our yacht club -- GFI protected 30 amp circuits. Plugging in power cord (with a galvanic isolator in place) frequently caused GFI to pop. All I really need is battery charger working, so I now plug the battery charger directly to shore power. I have a male plug on my charger so it's a simple solution. I have a 3' extension cord plugged into the charger and it comes up the back of the cockpit liner and hangs over the top. I plug shore power in there. If I plan on going to another marina, I just replug the charger into the boat system and use the 30 amp power cord. I'm at the only marina with GFI in my cruising area.

Dave
"Lobo"
 
Jurgen and Howard:

Howard, did you leave the trim tab metal exposed where the trim tab zinc would come in contact with it?

Jurgen, you are correct in that a Galvanic Isolator helps protect the zincs by keeping bad power from getting to them via the boat power source.....ie shore power.

Jim F
 
Hi Jim,

Yes, I masked the area where the trim tab anode is installed. I suspect that the epoxy primer helped to isolate the stainless steel trim tab from the salt water and reduced the ion flow allowing the zinc anode to last much longer.

Hi Jurgen,

The gavanic isoloator helps by blocking DC current (caused by low galvanic voltages, less than 1 1/2V or so) between your boat and others in the marina. When you connect shore power you are also connecting your boats ground (and underwater metals) to the ground of every other boat that is also on shore power. If other boats do not have proper anode protection then the anodes on your boat can end out protecting them (and get rapidly consumed). Another boat with faulty DC wiring, such as broken insulation in bilge pump wiring, can induce even higher currents and eat anodes at an alarming rate.
The gavanic isolator still allows AC current flow to allow a breaker to trip if there is an AC fault condition. I used a Fail Safe isolator, if it fails it should go into a short circuit. It will no longer provide galvanic isolation but will continue to provide AC fault protection. They need to be tested periodically, this is easily done using the diode test function on a digital multimeter. I plan to do this each year before launch.

An isolation transformer is even better than a galvanic isolator, but the transformer is much larger, heavier, and costs more.

Howard
 
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