Volvo D3 Total Failures?

[bensmiata]

I am just curious, has anyone else with the D3 engine experienced a total, catastrophic failure in their engine requiring replacement? If so, what was the year of your boat and engine hours at time of failure? What was the resolution?

We had a 2015 R-27 which experienced its second engine failure before 100 hull hours before having a third engine put into the hull which we traded on our current R-29. We did not even put 1 hour on the 3rd engine before trading the boat, I hope we never see that boat again.

 

[SJI Sailor]

Can you describe the failure? (I'm no expert but FWIW I have never heard of anything like this, much less a second failure.)

 

[bshillam]

Following

 

[bensmiata]

Can you describe the failure? (I'm no expert but FWIW I have never heard of anything like this, much less a second failure.)

In our case it was a pulley which seized and caused the engine to lock up.

Here are some other posts online about the D3 engine family and failures (there's more, this is just a snippet):

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/ ... ed-to-1500

https://www.myhanse.com/volvo-d3-engine ... c9860.html

https://forums.ybw.com/index.php?thread ... d3.228978/

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-fo ... gines.html

Of note, Ranger no longer uses the D3 family of engines in their boats and switched to outboards for these models (R-25/27).

 

[BB marine]

I have heard and read every horror story about D3 engines. Most of the story's are of the early versions of the D3. There are few of the newest version which is when Fluid Motion started using the Volvo Engine. Is the D3 an indestructible engine? NO!. Is the D3 an engine that I would want to run hard all the time? NO!. Is the D3 a dependable marinized car engine? YES ! Are there D3's that have had issues early on? Yes! ( I have replaced engines with less than 100 hrs under warranty from the following manufactures, OMC, Mercruiser, Volvo, Crusader, Evinrunde, Mercury, Cummins 400hrs, all total failure. I would not generalize all engines that fail are poor design engines. They are mechanical and subject to a defect that is why manufactures have warranties.

D3's are small displacement high hp engines. The power they produce is one of the highest rated in their class. I spoke with a Volvo engineer and asked him about longevity. He said they have tested the D3 operating it with 10% WOT and the rest at 85% to 20% loads and seen 3000hrs with no mechanical failure. I asked what rpm could I run at continuously and expect to get reasonable longevity. His first question was "what is your Max RPM" I told him 4030 to 4050 rpm. He did a quick calculation and said 3425 rpm would be 85% of WOT rpm and about 75% load. He generalized it by saying 3400 to 3500 rpm.

I have heard of premature engine failures. Most involve the timing belt failing. This is a 1500 hr recommended replacement. I would recommend if the engine compartment is showing evidence of salt water contamination, the boat experienced high water in the bilge at any time or saltwater contamination in the forward section of the engine the timing belt tensioner pulley and the belt should be inspected and if needed replaced. If the tensioner seizes there is a good chance the belt could slip and cause serious damage to the engine.

The big complaint that is out on the Websites is the Turbo. The Volvo variable geometry turbo is made by Garrett. If working properly it gives this little moro a lot of torque at any throttle position. It is not the most reliable turbo but if the engine is operated with good fuel, is not run at low rpm's for extended cruising it should be a reliable component. ( I had a failure of the turbo at 400 Hrs do to a bad hose between the turbo and after cooler. I had an issue with the hose leaking oil from 50 hrs to 400Hrs. I tightened it but it continued to leak and the hose material got very soft. It appears it was destroyed from heat.In the beginning of 2019 I had completed an extensive install of ventilation to help cool the engine compartment. I believe this has helped keep the compartment with in a reasonable temperature and have not had any issues with the hose after 200 hrs of use it looks new.

The D3 like many smaller displacement engines is a reliable engine that requires regular maintenance specified by the engine manufacture. I think of the D3 has the inboard diesel that is very similar to the new 4 stroke outboards. The biggest difference is the fuel that operates it. The engines are basically build similar a lot of horse power with small displacement. The D3 2.4L being a high rev Diesel 4000 rpm to provide the same Hp has a Yamaha 200hp 2.8L outboard at 5500 rpm. I believe both will provide equal longevity if maintained and operated within the manufactures recommendations.

 

[Chimo]

I try not to comment on posts like this because I’m unlikely to change anyone’s mind but I think it’s worthwhile adding a couple of comments so that D3 owners don’t panic.

Engines are like any other equipment. They will fail. Manufacturers expect failures under warranty and price it into cost of business. I know, I’ve run a manufacturing business in the drivetrain sector. You’re not paying the money to expect zero defects. It’s not a spacecraft. Hopefully you bought the 5 year warranty. Many of the aging issues, including hoses, will show upon in that time.

Often, with recreational vessels it’s low usage that causes problems. Try and run your engine under load at least every two weeks year round unless you go through the long term storage procedure. Read the manual and do your maintenance.

Brian has made some excellent points, as he often does. Check that turbo frequently and vary your rpm. Keep filters clean and fuel fresh.

A d3-150 will have a lower wear rate than a d3-200. The rpm limit is lower, as is the mechanical loading. That being said, the difference will be minor since you’re only doing very low hours. Again, try and use your boat.

Ranger did not go to outboards because of d3 issues. The 23, 25, 27 OB boats have a very different hull and meet a different market demand.

There are tens of thousands of these engines running in many applications. It’s a great little workhorse and the failure rate is very low. Use it, don’t abuse it and maintain it. You may be one of the unlucky ones who has an issue but you will be unfortunately one of only a few.

 

[max from alaska]

Question:

I saw Brian’s post above about timing belt replacement on a Volvo D3 200 hp (Ranger Tug 2014 R27 is what I have). Question....Last fall I replaced the seawater pump belt tensioner because it had seized and I needed to replace the seawater pump impeller. I am now concerned that the belt tensioner on the other side of the engine which tensions the belt for the alternator may need to be checked for seizure and replaced as well. Is this the “timing belt” tensioner who’s belt failure could cause an engine failure? Or does it only serve the alternator? In looking at the engine schematic I can’t see where this belt serves as a timing belt.

Also, this belt tensioner is different from the one for the seawater pump: it doesn’t have a bolt to turn and seems to have a smooth face. How to turn this tensioner to loosen the belt?

Any insight will be helpful

Matt

 

[BB marine]

The sea water pump belt tensioner is only for the sea water pump. It has a failure rate because of the seawater pumps location. Whenever the impeller is replaced, water from the pump housing, after cooler and plumbing from the transmission cooler drains out of the pump housing. If the belt tensioner is not protected with rags this water will get into the spring and bearings in the tensioner and eventually lock it up. I recommend any time the impeller is changed flush the raw water side with fresh water, wrap rags around the tensioner, then pull the impeller. After replacing the impeller I spray CRC at the belt tensioner and exercise the tensioner back and forth to help saturate the CRC. This will help prevent the tensioner from locking up. At the same time I remove the Alternator belt and spray CRC in and around the the alternator belt tensioner. Exercise it, inspect the belts and reinstall them.

The timing belt and tensioner is behind the plastic shroud located in the fwd portion of the engine directly behind the alternator belt. This belt and tensioner is to be inspected, and replaced every 1400 hrs or every 8 years. This belt is a very important preventative maintenance item. If it fails there is a good chance the engine will be destroyed. I plan on replacing it at 1000hrs which will be at my 7th year of operation. If the forward section of the engine has gotten wet or had high water I would recommend pulling the raw water pump and alternator belts and removing the plastic shroud to inspect for water or moisture damage. I do know of a Ranger R25 2016 that had a belt tensioner fail and the engine was destroyed. I met the couple last fall. They had just purchased the boat and started the Great Loop. They were very fortunate that the failure happened the day after they did the Gulf crossing from Carrabelle Fl to Clearwater Beach a 20 hour 160 mile open water trip. Their trip ended in Clearwater and a new engine was required to complete the repair.

31359568 is the Volvo Penta part # for the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, and idler pulley. If I were doing a timing belt change I would replace all of theses components together. Volvo Penta will sell each component separately or as a kit. At the same time I would replace the coolant pump ( closed coolant pump ) it is driven by the timing belt.

 

[max from alaska]

Thanks Brian, I understand this now. I do have one last question about the belt tensioner for the alternator belt. It has a smooth face without a nut to attach a ratchet to in order to rotate the tensioner. Is there a way to operate it?
Also just thought of another....can you access and replace the timing belt through the step hatch like you do for the seawater pump or do you have to remove the engine?