Volvo Penta timing belts
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Toucan
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We had the camshaft drive belt replaced early last year on our D3. The dealer pulled the engine from the boat to do the job. As long as the engine was out, they serviced the turbocharger, after cooler and heat exchanger. They replaced the water pump, cam drive belt tensioner and starter and probably more while it was easy. Total cost was about $12,000. I do most of the routine maintenance myself. It costs about $10 in maintenance per hour of engine operation if you get to the 1400 hour belt change point. If you are ever going to get to that hour mark, you are throwing money away going 5 knots to save on fuel costs (about 0.5 gallon = $2.50 per hour).
If you chose to skip the belt change and the belt breaks, you will likely have at least one piston hit a valve, damaging the engine. The D3 engine is no longer made. The Volvo car diesel engine, that the D3 is derived from, is no longer made. Replacement new engines are no longer available from VolvoPenta. Remanufactured engines are not commonly available from VolvoPenta at this time. Availability of parts to rebuild an engine is unknown. We know someone whose engine broke a cam drive belt at about 950 hours a few years ago. Their damaged engine was a throw away and they had a new engine installed.
Barry Thompson
TOUCAN, R-27 Classic
If you chose to skip the belt change and the belt breaks, you will likely have at least one piston hit a valve, damaging the engine. The D3 engine is no longer made. The Volvo car diesel engine, that the D3 is derived from, is no longer made. Replacement new engines are no longer available from VolvoPenta. Remanufactured engines are not commonly available from VolvoPenta at this time. Availability of parts to rebuild an engine is unknown. We know someone whose engine broke a cam drive belt at about 950 hours a few years ago. Their damaged engine was a throw away and they had a new engine installed.
Barry Thompson
TOUCAN, R-27 Classic
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D4 Volvo Penta engines do not have a timing belt. D3 does and it should be replaced @ 1500 hours if used in a boat that does extensive cruising 300 plus hours a year. The engine is in a dry well ventilated engine compartment. My opinion a D3 used in a Ranger Tug 25', 27' or C26 Cutwater that is operated 100 to 150 hours a year. 800 hours is the time to replace the belt. The maximum marine age that Volvo gives the timing belt is 8 years for replacement. My opinion is 6 years maximum in a Ranger or Cutwater because of the poor ventilation and wet environment in the compartment and poorly designed self draining cockpit drains.
Most of the D3 belt failures are not due to the belt integrity failing. The belt failures are due to the belt tensioner failing. The failure is due to moisture and water damage causing the tensioner to jam and not keep proper tension on the belt. This causes the belt to slip or wear prematurely. When the belt cogs wear and the belt slips the valve timing is changed and a valve will interfere with piston movement. D3 engine is light duty automotive engine that was marinized, 5 cylinder DOHC engine. D3 is an interference engine. The engine had a good track record as a automotive engine and in my opinion a good engine used in the marine environment as long as it is maintained and operated with restrictions.(1) Frequent oil changes,(2) frequent antifreeze changes,(3) frequent water pump impeller changes, (4) frequent raw water pump belt tensioner inspections, (5) operated with the proper prop to allow for maximum rated RPM @WOT 4000 RPM +150. ( timing belt tensioner and belt replacement) early !!!
(1) 6 quart oil pan is fine for a car that is operating at 1600 to 2200 with a transmission that maintains the load on the engine. In a boat the load is max all the time and a boat engine is operated at higher rpm with higher load.
(2) Anti-freeze changes are over looked often. Why change the anti freeze so often? The D3 is a small displacement aluminum block engine that has no anode protection. There are dissimilar metals used in the cooling system. Corrosion protection is key to longevity. Clean anti freeze provides better protection when compared to 3 to 4 year old antifreeze that has been sitting in an aluminum block. There are corrosion inhibitors that break down over a period of time.
(3) Water pump failures cause over heat, An over heat with an aluminum block aluminum head open deck block is not good for longevity
(4) The W/P belt tensioner is a weak link component if not inspected. The tensioner is low on the engine and susceptible to water. Water is the destruction of this component. My opinion of why this fails so often. When changing the impeller theater spills out of the pump housing and spills onto the tensioner. The Pump location in Rangers is a PIA . I always flush my engine with fresh water before changing the impeller while operating in salt water. I place several rags over the tensioner to protect it from water damage.
(5) Proper Propping is key!! Rangers and Cutwaters are weight sensitive. When my C26 was empty (basic safety equipment) Fuel and water. The factory propping was spot on. 4150 rpm WOT. When we were loaded for cruising 3850 in perfect conditions. That is a speed hill for a little 2.4L diesel to climb. I had to make adjustments to the 3 blade and probably should have replaced it with a four blade properly sized.
I'm not highjacking the thread just adding thoughts about maintenance and longevity of this compact diesel.
Replacement of the timing belt can be done with the engine left in the boat. If it were my boat I would do the belt replacement in the boat. It is a PIA but the time will be less for me the DIY owner. Exchanger, after cooler, belt tensioner, internal water pump, drive belts all can be removed , inspected cleaned or replaced with the engine in place. Again PIA but for a DIY owner faster than pulling the engine. If the starter failed I'm not sure I could replace it with the engine in place. I would give it a try before pulling the engine but it will be a tough job to clear the stringer.
If I was paying a shop to do the job I would want the engine pulled. There are to many areas that a technician will possibly over look and not fasten properly because of assess restrictions. This is a good time to replace bilge bumps, clean the bilge put another layer of paint on the oil pan or just repaint, replace all hoses, flush the block throughly, clean and paint the engine mounts, replace the packing and cutlass bearing along wit all other mentioned items. A lot of work but all stuff that should be done to a 7 to 10 year old boat with 600 to 1000 hours.
For me, I would hate to pay 12K to have service work done. Many do and Cudo's for doing it. It is call maintaining your boat. My problem I don't trust service centers. I have worked in the field and have seen some shotty workmanship. I know when I do it, what was done and what was not done and how it was done. When the project is over I have an aching back, sore knees, cuts and bruises, I have said every bad word that I know but $$$ in my pocket and the satisfaction of doing the job and knowing what was done.
Most of the D3 belt failures are not due to the belt integrity failing. The belt failures are due to the belt tensioner failing. The failure is due to moisture and water damage causing the tensioner to jam and not keep proper tension on the belt. This causes the belt to slip or wear prematurely. When the belt cogs wear and the belt slips the valve timing is changed and a valve will interfere with piston movement. D3 engine is light duty automotive engine that was marinized, 5 cylinder DOHC engine. D3 is an interference engine. The engine had a good track record as a automotive engine and in my opinion a good engine used in the marine environment as long as it is maintained and operated with restrictions.(1) Frequent oil changes,(2) frequent antifreeze changes,(3) frequent water pump impeller changes, (4) frequent raw water pump belt tensioner inspections, (5) operated with the proper prop to allow for maximum rated RPM @WOT 4000 RPM +150. ( timing belt tensioner and belt replacement) early !!!
(1) 6 quart oil pan is fine for a car that is operating at 1600 to 2200 with a transmission that maintains the load on the engine. In a boat the load is max all the time and a boat engine is operated at higher rpm with higher load.
(2) Anti-freeze changes are over looked often. Why change the anti freeze so often? The D3 is a small displacement aluminum block engine that has no anode protection. There are dissimilar metals used in the cooling system. Corrosion protection is key to longevity. Clean anti freeze provides better protection when compared to 3 to 4 year old antifreeze that has been sitting in an aluminum block. There are corrosion inhibitors that break down over a period of time.
(3) Water pump failures cause over heat, An over heat with an aluminum block aluminum head open deck block is not good for longevity
(4) The W/P belt tensioner is a weak link component if not inspected. The tensioner is low on the engine and susceptible to water. Water is the destruction of this component. My opinion of why this fails so often. When changing the impeller theater spills out of the pump housing and spills onto the tensioner. The Pump location in Rangers is a PIA . I always flush my engine with fresh water before changing the impeller while operating in salt water. I place several rags over the tensioner to protect it from water damage.
(5) Proper Propping is key!! Rangers and Cutwaters are weight sensitive. When my C26 was empty (basic safety equipment) Fuel and water. The factory propping was spot on. 4150 rpm WOT. When we were loaded for cruising 3850 in perfect conditions. That is a speed hill for a little 2.4L diesel to climb. I had to make adjustments to the 3 blade and probably should have replaced it with a four blade properly sized.
I'm not highjacking the thread just adding thoughts about maintenance and longevity of this compact diesel.
Replacement of the timing belt can be done with the engine left in the boat. If it were my boat I would do the belt replacement in the boat. It is a PIA but the time will be less for me the DIY owner. Exchanger, after cooler, belt tensioner, internal water pump, drive belts all can be removed , inspected cleaned or replaced with the engine in place. Again PIA but for a DIY owner faster than pulling the engine. If the starter failed I'm not sure I could replace it with the engine in place. I would give it a try before pulling the engine but it will be a tough job to clear the stringer.
If I was paying a shop to do the job I would want the engine pulled. There are to many areas that a technician will possibly over look and not fasten properly because of assess restrictions. This is a good time to replace bilge bumps, clean the bilge put another layer of paint on the oil pan or just repaint, replace all hoses, flush the block throughly, clean and paint the engine mounts, replace the packing and cutlass bearing along wit all other mentioned items. A lot of work but all stuff that should be done to a 7 to 10 year old boat with 600 to 1000 hours.
For me, I would hate to pay 12K to have service work done. Many do and Cudo's for doing it. It is call maintaining your boat. My problem I don't trust service centers. I have worked in the field and have seen some shotty workmanship. I know when I do it, what was done and what was not done and how it was done. When the project is over I have an aching back, sore knees, cuts and bruises, I have said every bad word that I know but $$$ in my pocket and the satisfaction of doing the job and knowing what was done.
rheimb1
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Gee Brian you paint a gloomy picture and seems like my boat just lost value! One of the reasons I have a mechanic do most of the maintenance to ensure the job is well done. I feel fortunate to have the same mechanic work on my R-25 2015 every time it needs it. I'm also fortunate the costs over here are far less than the west side. With that said I just had them take the belt off for inspection at 650 hours and almost all fresh water use, until this past summer where I had it store on the hard but spend several weeks on the water.
Either way I was planning to replace it in a couple more years perhaps 200 more hours, so to answer the question, no not yet.
Either way I was planning to replace it in a couple more years perhaps 200 more hours, so to answer the question, no not yet.
Just Right
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I replaced mine . Not a bad job, aleast on my 2013 CW26. Kit was under 400.00 . If you search you can find the post I made a while back. Not sure about the doom and gloom constantly posted here by some.
I've been through just about every system on my boat and so far nothing has been unusually problematic. Bought the boat with 67 hrs 3 years ago and we now 778hrs and over 5000 miles. Everything in engine compartment still looks new.
I've been through just about every system on my boat and so far nothing has been unusually problematic. Bought the boat with 67 hrs 3 years ago and we now 778hrs and over 5000 miles. Everything in engine compartment still looks new.
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rheimb1":1a9rubhq said:
To the contrary. You are maintaining the engine by a known good service technician based on your comments. My only question for your technician why go through all that work removing the belt and inspecting it 650 hours ( 8 years) and not replace it and the tensioner. Good or bad it just makes sense to replace it. The labor to remove and replace in a R25 or R27 exceeds the cost of the parts.The Kit, Volvo Penta New OEM Tooth Belt, #31359568 is under 400.00 OEM Volvo Penta. The R25 and R27 Ranger Tugs engine installation is nothing like the C26 Cutwater engine installation. I have worked in all three engine compartments. The C26 is a no brainier. Leave the engine in the boat. The access to the belt cover is accessible as is the Turbo, after cooler, motor mounts, exhaust manifold.......
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=44542&g2_imageViewsIndex=1 The R25 and R27 does not have this access it is a PIA to get to and remove but it can be done. Most servicing technicians will advise pulling the engine.
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=70019&g2_imageViewsIndex=1This is the same compartment with turbo, after cooler, exhaust elbow removed. it was tight quarters but doable with just a few swear words !!
This is not doom and gloom. This is my opinion based on working on D3 Volvo Penta engines. I have researched the history, pro's and con's of its design, along failures in the automotive industry and marine. I posted an explanation of preventative maintenance items and why they are important. If my post made you feel that your engine was going to fail and your boat is loosing value. I either did not explain the context correctly or you did not understand the context of the post. Do the research on a D3 Volvo. It has an awesome track record in the automotive industry. It is not a robust heavy duty marine engine. It is a small displacement open deck aluminum block, high horse power engine. The engine components are the same as a Volvo car engine. The only difference, modified software program (ECM), modifying the torque curve and a simplified starting sequence for marine applications. The water-cooled intercooler, a water-cooled exhaust manifold, heavier duty flywheel, seawater-pump and heat exchanger, are marinised components. Ranger Tug R25 with the 150 hp D3 is the perfect application for this engine. I have met many Tug owners with D3's with 1500 + hours on their engines. 1500 hours is nothing that is equivalent to 50,000 miles on a light duty truck. No doom and gloom as long as you keep up on maintenance you will have a dependable engine. By a trusted technician or DIY. (My opinion)
Just Right":1a9rubhq said:
The key comment: "I've been through just about every system on my boat and so far nothing has been unusually problematic". You have worked on all systems, not unusually problematic but needed servicing. I would assume the reason for going through the systems was preventative maintenance and or issues with failure? Its a boat!! 778 hours in a 10 year old boat. I'm sure you will be enjoying your C26 powered by a D3 for years to come. I'm sure it is well maintained !
tlkenyon
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My 2015 R25sc with the D3-150 is nearing 1,300 hours, mostly fresh except for some salt while on the Loop. Never any water splashing around on the engine. Lives on a trailer when not actively being used.
Looking for a recommendation from an R25sc owner for a shop that has actually done their timing belt replacement - and done it right. Nobody here in South Dakota, so will trailer just about anywhere to get it done, would double as a vacation.
Kinda planning on a second Great Loop, so passing the 1,400 hour service point is a near certainty, as is the suggested 8-year age.
THANKS
TK
Nellie May
Looking for a recommendation from an R25sc owner for a shop that has actually done their timing belt replacement - and done it right. Nobody here in South Dakota, so will trailer just about anywhere to get it done, would double as a vacation.
Kinda planning on a second Great Loop, so passing the 1,400 hour service point is a near certainty, as is the suggested 8-year age.
THANKS
TK
Nellie May
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If you want to take a trip to Lake Michigan north of Chicago. Full Throttle Marine in Waukegan IL. is a Quick Response Service Center for Volvo Penta. I did not use them for belt replacement but I did get all my parts from them when I had a Turbo failure. Volvo Penta customer service recommended them to me. I called them and they were very helpful. The technician that they sent out to look at my turbo under warranty was shocked at the limited room to work on the engine. The C26 is not bad when compared to the R25. It can be done and I believe they are fully capable of doing the job. They do engine replacements so even if they needed to pull the engine it would not be an issue. There is also a shop near Tarpon Springs Fl. that has done a timing belt replacement in a 2016 R25. I will get the name of the facility if you are interested in a Florida Run. A friend of mine had the facility do a full 1500 hour service on his D3 150 hp which included the belt replacement. The technician did it without removal of the engine. I was surprised that he elected to do it that way so it can be done.
tlkenyon
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Brian,
Thanks so much for the recommendation. I would be very interested in the Tarpon shop, mainly because of the R25 experience. It would also be a great place to spend some time - it was one of our favorite places on our Loop. I would go for the full 1500 hour service just to get it over with.
THANKS
TK
tim@nelliemay.com
Thanks so much for the recommendation. I would be very interested in the Tarpon shop, mainly because of the R25 experience. It would also be a great place to spend some time - it was one of our favorite places on our Loop. I would go for the full 1500 hour service just to get it over with.
THANKS
TK
tim@nelliemay.com