Warped cabin door

B

baz

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Messages
6,085
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
It seems my R-25's door has developed a warp such that the lower rubber seals don't do a complete job of sealing air and/or engine noise from the cockpit area.

I'm not really sure if it has always been this way or has developed the warp since buying the boat in Aug 2009. I can press the door at its lower edges and there's definitely an air gap. I can slip a piece of paper between the rubber seal and the metal surround with ease. I don't believe the rubber seal has aged and has compressed over time from it's original shape.

It's not clear to me how to best approach this to remedy the warp. Maybe a thicker seal or some kind of non-tacky substance on the door frame area where the seal isn't doing its job might work. I hate to wrestle with the door and its frame for fear of cracking the glass or doing damage beyond repair. Also, I don't like the idea of readjusting the hinges as the hinge screws insert into the door's metal frame and would be difficult to modify or change their locations.

I'm thinking the best solution is to simply find a thicker/larger rubber door seal to replace the existing one. Has anyone tried this approach ? As with all rubber materials these days, over time it deteriorates. I understand from auto shops that talcum powder does a great job in keeping rubber seals in good shape over time!

Any ideas from others will be appreciated. Thanks... 🙂
 
Baz,

You might try shiming the hinge(s) with thin pieces of material underneath which ever hinge you determine helps correct your "warp". Possible materials to use are roofing paper, window seal (a little thicker comes in a roll with one side adhesive). Obviously this is not going to correct your warp but sometimes helps realign it. My guess is the door frame "settled" slightly deforming out of plan rather than the door warping unless you can see otherwise.
 
Barry:

Is your door a Diamond Sea Glaze? If so you might call them to ask your question as to what to do. As nzfisher explained you might be able to shim the hinges. I've done this on a prior boat that had a Diamond Sea Glaze exterior door. You should ask them about the shims as they supply them for installations.

Jim
 
Maybe the weight of my spares and toolkit has twisted the boats original frame alignment.... :lol:

Yes, I will try the 'shimming' approach. Either that, or I'll wait for my trusty brother-in-law to visit me from UK who's an expert at this sort of thing. On his last visit he inspected every door in my house and correct them for proper alignment and closing without issues. 😉 The promise of a boat cruise with him might just entice him over... :lol:
 
Barry, my R-27 is the same. It came that way from the factory and seems to be related to the tall door with not enough (IMO) metal to support it. I'd been thinking I would add some weather stripping to increase the bulk in the area that leaks, which is primarily on the lower area, but that job hasn't risen to the top of my list yet as my daughter who lives in the cave doesn't seem to mind the cold air seeping in on windy days. I suspect sealing the gap may reduce some engine noise as well, but turning up the Fusion Stereo may be more effective ;-). Let us know if you find a solution.

Ray
 
I don't think shimming the hinges will necessarily help with the warp. However if the hinges (not at my boat now) have slots at the screw holes then pulling the top hinge out and moving the bottom hinge in may help. You should also probably do it while the boat is in the water. I actually have the same issue on my boat, but it is one of those "to do" things that always winds up at the bottom of the list.
I figure a little make up air isn't all that bad. :lol:
 
knotflying":1pq5y0sd said:
I don't think shimming the hinges will necessarily help with the warp. However if the hinges (not at my boat now) have slots at the screw holes then pulling the top hinge out and moving the bottom hinge in may help. You should also probably do it while the boat is in the water. I actually have the same issue on my boat, but it is one of those "to do" things that always winds up at the bottom of the list.
I figure a little make up air isn't all that bad. :lol:
Click to expand...

It has not bothered us. I am aware that it does not fit near the bottom. I will check when I am back at the boat, but it might be the door frame and not the door. I do know that placement of lifting straps affects the shape of the door frame. So the solution as Ray opines maybe to build up the weather stripping rather than pulling the door tighter to the frame.
 
I resolved my issue with the cabin door today. I simply removed the two screws holding the frame to the cabin wall in the corner (looking at the door from the cockpit it's the lower left corner) where the door requires a better seal against the rubber sealing tube. With these two screws removed I was able to pry the door's frame away from the cabin wall and slipped in about a 1/8" thick compressible rubber material shim. After returning the two screws I removed and tightening down securely I find the door seals much much better in that area, and I can no longer slip a piece of paper between the seal and the door.

I also took the opportunity to grease the lock catch and its striker plate so that the door closes and latches just with a gently push/swing. It would not do this before and I found I had to slam it shut.
 
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