Waterlock melt down

C & P,

Thank you. There is a Harbor Freight right around the corner, I'll pick oe up.

Sort of figured out most of the run - but I can't figure out how to get out (or maybe in) to to the dash console.

Is there an opening I can't see?
 
It strikes me as kind of odd that a boat of this quality and price has neither a raw water flow alarm, nor a manifold overheat alarm.

My R-25 impeller failed just a minute or so after completing the pre-departure check. As you might expect, the Vetus muffler melted down as expected.

I replaced the NMLP-90 Vetus just before the Ft. Lauderdale boat show - only to learn that Vetus now makes an identical form factor Vetus NLP-90 HD that has a 550 degree F temperature rating. I bought my original replacement from Defender - and they are the stocking dealer for the new one, although I can't find it on their web site.

There is an alarm suited to the engine monitor for about $600 from Yanmar. The seemingly identical unit is about $60 from Aqualarm - I'm putting that one one and getting an Aqualarm flow gauge as soon as I can figure out how to get a wire to the front of the boat. The temperature alarm can go anywhere, but the flow needs switched 12 volts on the engine and you might want to push the silence button since it sounds every time the engine is started until the flow is established (a good thing).

My Ranger is a 2010/11, hopefully Ranger puts the alarm on the new models.??.
 
SGIDAVE":3rx46szx said:
Lobo":3rx46szx said:
I'll toss in another recommendation for Aqualarm -- particularly the water flow alarm.
Dave
Lobo
Click to expand...

And I'll second Dave's (Lobo) recommendation for the Aqualarm Cooling Water flow alarm. I put on on my 21EC


With the Aqualarm there is no wondering if cooling water flow is present...as others have said, if your FIRST indication of trouble is an engine overheat alarm, you are several minutes into a problem which could cause damage such as the water lift muffler melting, shredding the raw water pump impeller, etc.

This is an easy DIY installation.

dave
Click to expand...

Dave what hose size did you get for this Aqualarm device with for your R-21EC ?
 
baz":1x2qvsq4 said:
Dave what hose size did you get for this Aqualarm device with for your R-21EC ?
Click to expand...

My 2013 R21EC has 3/4" raw water hose. I used the "kit" sold from Defender.com for 1/2"-3/4" hose. It is oversized compared to 3/4" ID hose, so there's no restriction.

dave
 
Vetus now offers a high temperature fiberglass replacement for the NLP-90 used on the R-25. It is the same designation with HD after the name - costs about $200 more and is identical in shape and size. No plumbing changes needed.
 
It seems to me that the cooling water flow detector, when installed on the suction side of the raw water pump will only alarm up to the discharge of the pump. Any failure of hoses after the pump will simply allow the water into the bilge and not to protect its intended purposes. However I do believe that suction loss is the biggest risk we have. For full protection I think we also need the exhaust temp sensor. Having said this I will probably install only the flow detector and frequently inspect all hoses and the water lift muffler after the pump.
Aqualarm does not stock 1" npt to 5/8" barb fittings as needed for my application. I am looking for these fittings in CPVC before I buy as that is what I am told the sensor is made of.
Regards Don
 
Just a thought in reply to the last post. Wouldn't a pressure/vacuum switch not suffice to detect flow. If there is flow in the suction line it should be accompanied by a negative pressure. The more suction the more flow. Would that not allow a better monitoring than for instance a flow sensor with a side effect of restricting flow?
 
stwendl":3qa7ca98 said:
Just a thought in reply to the last post. Wouldn't a pressure/vacuum switch not suffice to detect flow. If there is flow in the suction line it should be accompanied by a negative pressure. The more suction the more flow. Would that not allow a better monitoring than for instance a flow sensor with a side effect of restricting flow?
Click to expand...

As I see it,If you use a pressure/vacuum sensor It would not protect your raw water system from no flow if the raw water intake is obstructed by debris. (one of the reasons for the sensor) The pump would be trying to move water and pulling a vacuum when no water was available. The impeller of the pump would soon fail along with the over heating of the critical plumbing down stream.
Don
 
I installed the waterflow alarm and the one time I needed it, it actually failed me. I suggest that you install the water flow and exhaust temp alarm together.
 
GA-Midnight Cruise":3th3b17y said:
Excellent. Thanks for the link. Will be installing one along with a Vernalift wet exhaust system.
Click to expand...

Can you update us on your new muffler/exhaust system?

/dave
 
Captstu,
Can you be more specific about the Yanmar and Aquamarine devices - part #. Thanks.
RB
 
I installed a replacement water lift muffler and hoses identical to those provided as original equipment on the Ranger 25 when she was built in 2011. It operates exactly as it did when new.

I also installed an Aqualarm Exhaust Overheat Alarm Kit (One Detector And Panel) from Defender that is intended to sound an alarm insufficient time to prevent exhaust system damage in the event of an impeller failure. Unfortunately there is no way to really test it without damaging the exhaust system.

I considered installing a companion Aqualarm raw water flow meter, but the thought of cutting and splicing a below water line hose raised more concerns than the flow meter gave assurances, so I opted not to put the flow meter in place.

I installed a nearly identical horn and sensor in the oil pressure system to sound an alarm if the engine oil pressure went below safe limits. This gets tested, briefly, each time the engine starts because the low pressure when the engine is not running trips the sensor - as it should. I feel the alarm is a much better safety system than the analog to digital to analog system delivered with the Yanmar engine as installed by Ranger.

I also feel,strongly, that on a boat of this expense for the intended users of this boat that the omission of the water flow sensor and temperature gauge in the initial offering is irresponsible of Ranger. Both are "standard" Yanmar options - the instruments are on our panels, but there is no sensor behind them. Everyone has a price point when designing a boat, I know Ranger made hard decisions to build this boat -- but I believe, strongly, that safety instrumentation necessary to prevent engine damage in the event of a common failure should either be included in the initial build or at least available as a standard factory option.
 
Had a meltdown once. Forgot to open the raw water intake valve. The water flow sensor was installed but sounded too late since I had to accelerate immediately upon leaving the dock. I am adding the exhaust temperature sensor. I think both make the most sense. I replaced it with the plastic one, which I really hate but not sure how to fit another one in there and when it happened it was about 110 F outside. Wasn't in the mood to re-design.
 
doke01":2rlj8w8v said:
The water flow sensor was installed but sounded too late since I had to accelerate immediately upon leaving the dock.
Click to expand...

My Aqualarm cooling water flow sensor alarms immediately. When you turn the ignition key ON, it sounds, and if there is no flow - it continues alarming. The normal condition is for a brief alarm which stops as soon as the engine cranks up and establishes flow.

Are you saying your alarm DID NOT sound immediately? What kind of alarm was it?

dave
 
It's an older model aqualarm. It does turn on immediately but there must have been enough water in the line to not trigger it and since I accelerated immediately the meltdown was immediate as well. The older model is much harder to adjust at the lower end for flow where my Yanmar sits. I've tested it by quickly closing the seacock and it does work but in that particular case, where I really needed it, it did not.
 
Porn sure water for, I mounted the high temperature water warm buzzer behind the panel with a couple wire ties. I need not see the Exact problem to know I have a problem.

Just after replacing my water left muffler, I found the fetus makes an exact replacement fiberglass muffler that will not melt When the impeller, belt or hose fails..

Yanmar offers both a over temperature alarm at a low flow alarm for the 4BY enginesThey can only be ordered at original manufacture time and would not sell me one.

It makes sense for both of the size, quality, and expense, that the $90 option be included with the original boat engine.
 
captstu":1st3kvsd said:
Porn sure water for, I mounted the high temperature water warm buzzer behind the panel with a couple wire ties. I need not see the Exact problem to know I have a problem.

Just after replacing my water left muffler, I found the fetus makes an exact replacement fiberglass muffler that will not melt When the impeller, belt or hose fails..

Yanmar offers both a over temperature alarm at a low flow alarm for the 4BY enginesThey can only be ordered at original manufacture time and would not sell me one.

It makes sense for both of the size, quality, and expense, that the $90 option be included with the original boat engine.
Click to expand...

Hey Stu,

Glad your sensors are working...I think that's what you are saying. It looks to me like your voice recognition or spell checker when awry..?

"Porn sure water for..." huh?

dave :lol:
 
Fetus = V E T U S. Sorry
 
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