Winter survey in the Northeast

[cbhillman57]

I'm currently in the market for an R25 or R27, but am concerned about getting an effective survey on a winterized boat, i.e. inability to test all systems or get a sea trial. Thoughts?

 

[fallard]

IMHO, it is doable, but more difficult ($$), assuming harbor ice is not an issue for a sea trial. The electronics should not be an issue. You could check the freshwater system by passing RV antifreeze through all of the outlets--galley and head sinks, shower head, cockpit shower. Passing RV antifreeze through the black water system and verifying the overboard macerator would be straightforward. An LE edition would be more work to verify the AC/heat and generator (if equipped) during sea trial, because that would likely require re-winterizing any raw water cooled machinery, as would be the case with an inboard diesel. An outboard motor should be straightforward--maybe just minor work, like refogging. The preceding assumes outside (unheated) storage after the sea trial.

 

[cbhillman57]

Thanks...that's what i was thinking. How would you expect the division of responsibility to play out?

 

[JBfishon]

You didn't mention whether an inboard or outboard Ranger Tug. An inboard would require re-winterizing the engine. I purchased my 2022 low-hour Cutwater C24 this past February, and took it out for sea trials February 26th, up in Maine! With 50 years boating experience, other than an indoor physical inspection on it's trailer, I passed on any survey. Other than testing electronics and some systems during sea trial, I figured any other "system failures", like pumps, would be a cost that I would assume. Before closing, I did require that I could transfer the Cutwater hull warranty ($400), and that I paid for a Yamaha engine certification ($250), and an extended warranty on the Yamaha outboard until 2026 ($1650). Trailered the boat to home marina in Rhode Island end of March in a snow storm. Ah yes, New England Winter boating. I did engine prep and anodes in April and launched the boat. I put 114 hours on the boat this Summer. The only "failure" was a Jabsco head joker valve, and I replaced the head pump assembly ($107).

 

[cbhillman57]

Jury is still out regarding inboard vs. outboard. I can afford what I want, but am frugal by nature. I appreciate value and reliability, plus my wife really isn't a boat person (at least not yet! 😳) I'm hoping that the buyers market will continue to push prices back to a more realistic level, and winter prices in the NE can be attractive. I'm targeting late Q126 to purchase, but honestly I'm not in a rush. If the right boat presents at the right price, I'm in.

 

[fallard]

Thanks...that's what i was thinking. How would you expect the division of responsibility to play out?

The surveyor, marina launch and retrieval are on the potential buyer. I believe the the seller should have liability insurance in effect. This is how it worked when I sold my 35' sailboat.

BTW, I recommend that you actually drive the boat--at least away from the dock--and especially at higher speeds to get a better feel for how the boat handles. I didn't do that and was surprised when I took ownership of my R27 OB, which handles very differently from the 23' Mako I had owned for 30+ years.

 

[cbhillman57]

Again you've been very helpful... thanks.

My previous boat was a 16' deep vee fishing boat with a 40 hp Merc outboard, so I suspect that anything I buy in the live-aboard tug/trawler class is going to present a learning curve.