Winterization Checklist Questions (D4-260)

[Eric R]

I'm finalizing my list of things to do during winterization. That plan currently consists of the typical antifreeze routine and an oil and filter change for the engine and generator. We just got our brand new C28 in July this year and it has about 75 hours on it. Should I worry about doing any of the following items as well?

• 
  Transmission Oil/Filter
  Crankcase Filter
  Fuel filters
  Air filter

Just want to get a sense of what others do during their annual winterization (and spring wake up as well). This is my first time winterizing and definitely want to do things right, but not sure at what point it's overkill. :lol:

Thanks!

 

[BB marine]

Did your engine get a 50 hour inspection? The transmission oil and filter is changed then along with engine oil. If not I would change the transmission oil and filter also. I inspected my crank case filter at 100 hours and it was very clean, I will replace it this year 236 hours (that is an expensive little item). Air filter I just ran a vacuum lightly over the out side at 100 hours. I will also replace this winter. Also expensive ! Stabilize fuel if you don't use a additive. Drain and replace fuel filters, Grease rudder post( quick silver 2-4-c grease). I also pull my prop to inspect key and key way ,put a thin film of grease and reinstall.
There are many past post on here with good recommendations. Also I would start a oil sample program for transmission and engine. At 75 hours it will probably come back with higher then normal metal which is normal with break-in residuals but it also checks for water, antifreeze ..... It starts a base line and the oil analysis company gives recommendations. I use Blackstone. There are many good companies out there.
Brian Brown
Cutwater26
PORT-A-GEE

 

[Eric R]

Did your engine get a 50 hour inspection? The transmission oil and filter is changed then along with engine oil. If not I would change the transmission oil and filter also. I inspected my crank case filter at 100 hours and it was very clean, I will replace it this year 236 hours (that is an expensive little item). Air filter I just ran a vacuum lightly over the out side at 100 hours. I will also replace this winter. Also expensive ! Stabilize fuel if you don't use a additive. Drain and replace fuel filters, Grease rudder post( quick silver 2-4-c grease). I also pull my prop to inspect key and key way ,put a thin film of grease and reinstall.
There are many past post on here with good recommendations. Also I would start a oil sample program for transmission and engine. At 75 hours it will probably come back with higher then normal metal which is normal with break-in residuals but it also checks for water, antifreeze ..... It starts a base line and the oil analysis company gives recommendations. I use Blackstone. There are many good companies out there.
Brian Brown
Cutwater26
PORT-A-GEE

Thanks! I’ve added the transmission oil/filter change to my list and will check out Blackstone. I will have to do the rudder post and stuff when I have a quick haul out done in the spring to do all the zincs and overall visual inspection.

What fuel stabilizer do you recommend? I’ve been told the fuel at my marina is treated so I haven’t been using an additive.

What transmission oil are you using? I’ve found some conflicting documents online. Some seem to indicate to use the synthetic stuff, some say the standard stuff. Not sure what it came with in it and what I should keep using when I do the change.

Thanks again!

 

[knotflying]

I do the oil analysis on my engine and did it on my plane as well. However, I keep thinking what would I do if the analysis came back out of whack. On the plane you could pretty much identify the metal and the part and access was easy to correct an issue. I am not quite sure what you would do on a boat engine, pull it out and take it apart? Wait for a failure and then say, "Ah, that's what it was." Just wondering.

 

[BB marine]

I do the oil analysis on my engine and did it on my plane as well. However, I keep thinking what would I do if the analysis came back out of whack. On the plane you could pretty much identify the metal and the part and access was easy to correct an issue. I am not quite sure what you would do on a boat engine, pull it out and take it apart? Wait for a failure and then say, "Ah, that's what it was." Just wondering.

The reason for oil analysis is not to tell you your engine has failed, it is to help prevent failure and use as a trouble shooting tool. On larger capacity engines it is used to tell condition of oil for longer oil change intervals. When a oil sample is taken it shows , moisture levels, if anti freeze is present, if there is metal content in the oil and at what level. Slight increases in levels point out an issue is happening and should be addressed before damage occurs . Example ; if water was detected you may have an oil cooler leak. If antifreeze is detected you may have an intercooler or head gasket leak. If not fixed you may be pulling the engine out because it is damaged.If detected and repaired in time you saved issue before damage occurred. Another example is Engine wear; with good clean oil there should be very little to no wear. The oil is used to minimize friction and transfer heat caused from the moving components. If metal levels increase slightly it could be as simple as a air cleaner is dirty or a ventilation hose is obstructed and not allowing enough air in the induction. Read your reports and if you see a slight change call the company doing the analysis, they can help you trouble shoot or explain causes of the change. Oil analysis are used to tell you there is a problem before you notice you have problem.




Thanks! I’ve added the transmission oil/filter change to my list and will check out Blackstone. I will have to do the rudder post and stuff when I have a quick haul out done in the spring to do all the zincs and overall visual inspection.

What fuel stabilizer do you recommend? I’ve been told the fuel at my marina is treated so I haven’t been using an additive.

What transmission oil are you using? I’ve found some conflicting documents online. Some seem to indicate to use the synthetic stuff, some say the standard stuff. Not sure what it came with in it and what I should keep using when I do the change.

Thanks again![/quote]

The rudder post is greased inside the boat . there are two beckson plates in the compartment under the aft seat to get access or I remove the seat to inspect steering linkage, thruster, and rudder log.

There are many post about additives on tugnuts. I think if you research the products on the market and know what you want to get from the product your choice should be made from that. I use PRI-3 others use, Stanadyne and FPPF all good products.

I use Valvoline Dextron II III transmission oil and Shell Rotella engine oil both non synthetic. There are many other very good products . Research and see what works for you.
Brian Brown
Cutwater26
PORT-A-GEE

 

[Eric R]

The rudder post is greased inside the boat . there are two beckson plates in the compartment under the aft seat to get access or I remove the seat to inspect steering linkage, thruster, and rudder log.

There are many post about additives on tugnuts. I think if you research the products on the market and know what you want to get from the product your choice should be made from that. I use PRI-3 others use, Stanadyne and FPPF all good products.

I use Valvoline Dextron II III transmission oil and Shell Rotella engine oil both non synthetic. There are many other very good products . Research and see what works for you.
Brian Brown
Cutwater26
PORT-A-GEE

Thanks, Brian! I always find your feedback very helpful and it's definitely appreciated. I find that I end up doing research, then still wanting to ask people what they do. Something about asking people with the same boats facing the same questions/issues gives me a better comfort level than Google does. 😀