Winterization

[rpmerrill]

My first winter of ownership is fast approaching.
It's been stormy and nasty for the past five days so my mind has been wandering.

The boat will be hauled in about two weeks. (We're leaving the country for a couple weeks, so now is the time.)
After reading the Boat US Guide to Winterizing, I was in a panic. So much that can go wrong. But then I watched the Ranger Tug video. Easy-Peesy.

The question is, should I do it myself? I'm a retired mechanical engineer, having spent 35 years in the industrial refrigeration business. I know about pumps and piping and cooling systems, just not that much about boats. How many gallons of antifreeze solution do you use? I know it is ecologically ok stuff, but I feel bad pumping it out on the ground or into the water.

What are the pitfalls and bad stories that you all can share?

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

If you take your time the winterization process is rather routine, especially with your background. I've copied the winterization I go thru with my 2012 R27 with Yanmar, Genset, reverse air/heat. Hope this helps,

Jim F


BOAT WINTERIZATION:

5 GAL engine rv anti freeze
5 GAL fresh water rv anti freeze

1. Empty water tank

2. Empty hot water heater

3. Have holding tank pumped out

4. Put 4 gallons in water tank

5. Run galley sink until anti freeze comes out

6. Run head sink until anti freeze comes out

7. Pour anti freeze in head sump

8. Run genset until it is warmed up

9. Close thru hull valve on air/heat, take hose off of strainer. once genset is started start air/heat unit and pour anti freeze into hose until it comes out discharge hole on hull side. reassemble hose onto strainer.

10. close thru hull on genset and take hose off of strainer. start genset and pour anti freeze into hose until it comes out hull discharge hole. turn genset off and re assemble hose.

11. Close thru hull for engine

12. Take strainer cap off and pour anti freeze into strainer and flush toilet 2 times or until anti freeze comes into toilet bowl.

13. Pour anti freeze into strainer and turn on cockpit fresh water outlet until antifreeze comes out

14. Start engine and pour engine anti freeze into strainer until it comes out exhaust, 2 to 3 gallons

15. Re-install strainer cap.

16. Pour anti freeze into aft bilge until bilge runs.

17. Pour anti freeze into waste emptying fitting

18. Disconnect all batteries, connecting each set of cables with a zip tie. number each battery post with a zip tie that is the same as each batteries. need 16 white zip ties.

19. With boat out of the water pump anti freeze into forward bilge pump hull fitting (hull discharge is on starboard side closest to bow)

20. With boat out of the water pump anti freeze into waste water hull discharge fitting on port side between engine and genset exhaust.

 

[Rwnorton]

What a great reply! Ranger Tugs is really fortunate to have Jim F and the several other frequent responders who add their expertise to the questions us newbies have. Many thanks.

 

[rpmerrill]

Ya, Buddy !

You mentioned warming up the gen set. (I don't have one.) But what about the engine should it be warmed up?
I'm thinking of winterizing after the boat gets hauled.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

It's best to have the engine warmed up so any undesirable particles are suspended in the warm oil and thereby letting it flow more freely.

Jim F

 

[rpmerrill]

Aha, I just had my all my oil and filters changed last week.
Was wondering about a coolant thermostat having to be open. But on further consideration, the thermostat is on the engine coolant loop, not the raw water cooling loop. Nevermind. Thanks.

 

[NorthernFocus]

If you're only winterizing and not changing oil there is no benefit to warming up the engine.

How much antifreeze you need is dependent on what systems you have on your boat. First winter with normal fresh water system(including water heater), marine sanitary system, washdown pump, and main engine only, I used nine gallons. That was shooting for a -50F mixture (aka 50/50). Last season after removing the washdown pump and sanitary system it only took six gallons. This year by being very judicious on how I did things I only used four gallons. "Judicious" means:

-drain the fresh water system as dry as possible before flushing it
-bypass the water heater and drain it. Then pour antifreeze directly into water heater until it comes out the drain.
-drain the muffler before flushing/filling the engine raw water system

Doing this reduces dilution of the antifreeze therefore requires less of it.

It's best to have the engine warmed up so any undesirable particles are suspended in the warm oil and thereby letting it flow more freely...

Not sure where you picked this up but it is not accurate. Assuming you're referring to oil, at a given fluid velocity water and/or solids (aka undesirable particles) stay suspended better in higher viscosity fluids. The oil pump is positive displacement so moves (nominally) the same amount of oil regardless of temperature. The only benefit of heating the oil for service it that it is easier/quicker to pull out of the engine.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

As stated, yes I was talking about changing the engine oil and today, thanks to Dan, I learned that doing so when the engine is warm doesn't suspend solids more then when the oil is cold. Not sure why I thought this, I stand corrected. I re-read the question I guess I read it wrong to begin with. On the other hand the oil does pump out or drain more easily thereby getting slightly more old oil from the interior of the engine walls.

Jim

 

[Brian B]

I just purchased the RV/Marine antifreeze at Walmart, $2.58 a gallon. I also saw it at Lowe's for close to $5.00 a gallon.

 

[NorthernFocus]

I just purchased the RV/Marine antifreeze at Walmart, $2.58 a gallon. I also saw it at Lowe's for close to $5.00 a gallon.

Make sure they're the same thing. Not all antifreeze is created equal. There should be a temperature rating listed on the label. Typically RV antifreeze(propylene glycol) is sold in two mixes, -50F or -100F. If you mix the -100F with equal part of water then you have -50F. It's usually less expensive and less jugs to handle if you get the -100F and mix it yourself. Doesn't much matter if only getting a gallon or two but if you need a bunch of it like we tend to then it's worth noting. Home depot sells the -50F for $5 and the -100F for $7. So you save three bucks for every two gallons that you use.

 

[NorthernFocus]

...On the other hand the oil does pump out or drain more easily thereby getting slightly more old oil from the interior of the engine walls.

Absolutely. Makes a huge difference in how long it takes to drain/draw the oil out of the pan. And you do end up with cleaner oil simply because more of the old stuff gets sucked out(unless you're REAL patient).

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Just came from West Marine where -50* RV Anti-freeze was priced at $2.99 per gallon for the water system and -50* for the engine was priced @ $4.99. This was in Michigan so I guess it could be more elsewhere.

Jim F

 

[Brian B]

I just purchased the RV/Marine antifreeze at Walmart, $2.58 a gallon. I also saw it at Lowe's for close to $5.00 a gallon.

Make sure they're the same thing. Not all antifreeze is created equal. There should be a temperature rating listed on the label. Typically RV antifreeze(propylene glycol) is sold in two mixes, -50F or -100F. If you mix the -100F with equal part of water then you have -50F. It's usually less expensive and less jugs to handle if you get the -100F and mix it yourself. Doesn't much matter if only getting a gallon or two but if you need a bunch of it like we tend to then it's worth noting. Home depot sells the -50F for $5 and the -100F for $7. So you save three bucks for every two gallons that you use.

That's interesting on the -I00, I've never seen it stocked here in RI, guess you guys in AK have more of a need for it. What I purchased is -50.