Winterizing an R-21?

C

cruz-in

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
168
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
18 foot cubby cabing Catboat
Vessel Name
Auuumn Wind
Hi Team,

We live in Maryland and are considering purchasing an R-21 from the Florida. As we will be picking it up in the December/January timeframe, I was wondering what might need done as far as winterizing before bringing it north.

Thanks in advance for your inputs.

Dan
 
The only winterizing needed is to get marine antifreeze into and completely through the raw water system. Also if the boat is a 21 EC, then you have the issues with water in the sink system and the head. The closed loop part of the engine cooling should of course have the proper antifreeze in it just like your car whether it is a year round warm vehicle or boat or is a winter car or or stored boat.

Even a porta pottie needs to be emptied entirely, and remove all water based things on the boat like canned food, water bottles and the like.

My instructions from yanmar said nothing about treating the engine like a gasser, (fogging cylinders, etc.) That is apparently not done on diesels because of the difficulties of bleeding fuel lines in the spring and so on. DO fill your fuel tanks and put in appropriate diesel fuel conditioner.

That's all I know or believe and is worth the two cents .

Others will have better advice, and I'll look forward to seeing that.
 
I'm pretty sure you must run anti freeze tru the water intake system (heat exchanger) or any water in there will freeze.close your sea cock valve and pump anti resize thru the hose connection and run the motor till antifreeze comes out the exhaust then shut it down.done.
 
Hi Dan,

For the engine you will want to fill the raw water side of the engine cooling system with RV anti-freeze. Filling up the fuel tank helps prevent condensation inside the fuel tank and winterizing any holding tank, potable water system and associated plumbing will be needed. What I see most people forget about is their batteries, on more than one occasion I have seen batteries freeze while the boat is being transported in the winter.

Alan Dodson
Coastal Marine Engine
 
I just got done winterizing my R21-EC. First time for me!
First I ran the tap until the fresh water tank was empty. I poured 3 gallons of the -50 Non-Toxic Antifreeze through the deck fill port, then ran the tap again until antifreeze came out the tap, then out the external drain.
Next, I had the black/waste tank emptied, closed the seacock, then poured 3/4 gallon on the antifreeze down the head, flushing away until it was only antifreeze. I also poured the other 1/4 down the external pumpout into the tank.
I poured two gallons of antifreeze into the bilge, directly and through some of the drains. That's enough to get the pump going and get out any water.
I pumped out the oil and changed the oil filter now instead of spring. It was recommended to me by the surveyor to do this now so I don't have to deal with it in the spring. Totally optional step.
I filled a bucket with fresh water, then connected a short length of hose to the intake connector on the starboard side of the engine and dropped the other end in the bucket. I started the engine and ran it to flush out the salt water for awhile (I've heard of people adding some "salt-away" solutions here), continuing to add fresh water to the bucket. Then I dumped the fresh water and poured 3 gallons of antifreeze in the bucket. I ran the engine until it was all about gone and coming out the exhaust. I dumped the rest in the head.
Then I disconnected the batteries and brought them into the garage. I used some zipties to keep correct wires together.
I removed the radar dome from the mast so I could disconnect the wires, then removed the mast. Both are laying on a mat on the bow with the anchor.
Finally I pulled my slick new cover from Fisher Canvas over and we're good until Spring!

Edit: Forgot to mention that I filled up the fuel tank on the way home from the marina, and I added diesel fuel winterization additive.
 
I store my R21EC inside my heated warehouse. Other than adding a fuel stabilizer and maintaining the batteries, is there anything else I need to do?

Thanks, Mike
 
Slow own when you go fast,,,,,it's going to be 80 degrees this week,,,I'm going boating.
 
Mr. T":1yuvcuhi said:
I store my R21EC inside my heated warehouse. Other than adding a fuel stabilizer and maintaining the batteries, is there anything else I need to do?

Thanks, Mike
Click to expand...

Sorry, don’t know if your boat is run in fresh or salt water. I would definitely flush your raw water system (if used in the chuck). Also, flushing your heat exchanger and changing out your closed loop engine antifreeze every second year is a worthwhile exercise in my books.
 
Great information! This will be my first winter with our R27 in the PNW. The boat will be kept in a slip. Are there any checklists around for winterizing?
 
I store my R21EC inside my heated warehouse. Other than adding a fuel stabilizer and maintaining the batteries, is there anything else I need to do?

Thanks, Mike
Click to expand...

Storing the boat in a heated warehouse is the best option if it is available. I assume you use the boat in Lake Michigan but as Sheral said, you might still want to flush clean water through the engine. While heated storage in a warehouse or a garage is the best option, we have had boats still come through with freeze damage due to power outages during the winter. Some of our customers have decided to still winterize their boats while others have taken their boats to places that have backup generators.

Alan Dodson
Coastal Marine Engine
 
One item not mentioned yet is what needs done to the Air Conditioning system. Thoughts on how to assure there is no residual water in the intake/pump/discharge?

Thanks
Dan
 
I just made a pass at winterizing my AC in a 2014 R21EC. It's more complicated than I expected. I had planned to pump anti freeze thru the system. When I got to the raw water access, I found the thru hull, then a short hose (4-6"), the raw water strainer, another short hose and the pump. I decided I'd likely do much damage trying to get to the pump inlet. So, I disconnected the pump outlet line and removed all of the line's mounting brackets. That put the hose below the level of the AC condenser allowing it to drain. Then I ran the pump to get most of the water out. I probably should take my air compressor and blow thru the hull outlet to clear everything to the pump. However, I'm not sure I can get it down the ramp to my slip. Instead, I'll put a small cabin heater inside for use during the cold snaps.
 
Here's what I do to winterize the AC on my tug. It takes two people to accomplish this task but it's actually a very easy job. I use the same bucket I use to winterize the raw water system. Open the raw water intake valve for the AC pump. Place the end of the hose on the AC discharge opening and fill the bucket with a couple of gallons of antifreeze solution. Hold the bucket higher than the AC discharge opening and let the solution back flow through the discharge tubing and out the raw water intake. Once you see the antifreeze solution come out of the AC intake valve close the valve. You've got your AC ready for the winter. NO hoses to disconnect.

Cheers!

Karl
 
Capt'nKarl, great idea, if the boat is out of the water.

When I got home last evening, I realized I have a sump pump which gets used around the house.. I'll take it to the boat tomorrow, m/b. Hook it up to the AC pump outlet line and pump antifreeze thru the system.
 
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