Winterizing for PNW

[Dcsqatar]

I have a new R29S which will be going through its first winter in the Pacific Northwest. I researched numerous posts and then developed a detailed procedure as shown below. Maybe this might help others.

I am pretty comfortable with all decisions, although I am a little uncertain about (1) electrical plan - basically leave as is plugged into shore power, and (2) should I close all cabin hatches (my boat is in an uncovered slip) or leave a crack or two for ventilation. Any feedback would be welcome.

Winterizing 2020 Ranger 29S NW Edition (no AC, no generator)

Situation
• Wintering in Gig Harbor, WA
• Leave in water, in an uncovered slip at marina
• Owner away from end-Nov until end-Mar (4 months)

Engine (68 hours, 12 months old in July, plan on 1st service next summer) - general plan is to flush, leave cooling system protected with antifreeze, and install compartment heater
1. Close cooling water thru hull valve (seacock). With engine running, flush system with fresh water to seawater strainer. I used a 5 gallon bucket and a hose connected to a funnel which fits tightly into the strainer. Complete flush with freshwater with Salt Away. Leave water with Salt Away overnight. Next day, displace freshwater with antifreeze. My D4-300 takes about 4 gallons to fill seawater cooling system.
2. Install engine compartment heater to keep engine and most raw water pumps, strainers and plumbing above freezing. I chose Twin Hornet 45 (700w) heater based on good experience with friends’ boats, and exceptional safety and reliability features.
3. If cockpit is covered, open engine hatch slightly to promote ventilation

Fuel System
1. Fill tank with diesel to minimize water condensation. Leave a little room (I left 10 gallons) for fuel expansion.
2. Add diesel biocide/stabilizer. Volvo recommends Stanadyne, but I did not add anything extra as I purchased Valvtect Marine Diesel which comes complete with additives.

Electrical - general plan is to do nothing, and expect marina and/or neighbors to contact in the event of an extended power outage
1. Leave plugged in to marina shore power.
2. Leave battery switches in normal running positions (e.g., House, Engine, and Thruster “on’ and Parallel “off’)
3. Leave inverter/charger on and solar system configured as normal.
4. Open all unused 110v breakers.

Fresh Water System - after considering other options (e.g., blowing with 20 psi at pump, filling with non-toxic RV antifreeze, adding bleach to disinfect), decided draining as practical and leaving system open is most appropriate plan given low freezing risk and desire to minimize potential for freshwater system contamination.
1. Drain water from fresh water system, as practical, by opening all faucets and running pump, until no flow.
2. Turn off freshwater pump at switch.
3. Drain hot water heater as practical and reconnect hoses.
4. Remove hoses from discharge and suction of pump and drain any water. Leave hoses disconnected to increase system openness.
5. Remove hatch above water pump in cabin to share warmer cabin temps with bilge below
cabin.

Raw/Black Water System
1. Empty holding tank, flushing at least once with fresh water.
2. Close multi-use raw water thru hull valve (Stb side).
3. Open strainer and turn on first wash down pump and then flush head a few times while running freshwater into strainer. Repeat with antifreeze into strainer until antifreeze visible from washdown point and head.
4. Open washdown valve.
5. Flush a few oz of antifreeze placed directly into toilet.
6. Pour antifreeze into shower drain until antifreeze visible in discharged water.
7. Open door to head to share heat from main cabin.

Cabin - mitigate humidity issues but avoid high wattage heater
1. Provide dehumidifiers. I chose two low wattage “dew point control” heaters (Caframo 9406, 70w), backed up by desiccant driers. Expect the two dew point control heaters to provide sufficient heat to mitigate freezing issues in a closed cabin.
2. Close all hatches and head porthole.

Dinghy Outboard Engine (2.5 hp Suzuki 4 stroke) - as per owner’s manual
1. Fill internal tank 90% and add stabilizer to gas in tank.
2. Run engine for 5 minutes while flushing with freshwater, to distribute stabilized fuel
3. Close fuel tank vent and fuel shutoff switch/valve
4. Remove cover and spray power head with rust preventative (not a penetrative oil product).
5. Store upright preferably in a climate controlled location (off the boat)

Misc
1. Ensure trim tabs fully up
2. Confirm both bilge pumps functioning by adding water to bilge
3. Inspect cockpit drains and ensure clear
4. Empty refrigerators and clean but leave turned on, on low setting.
5. Dock boat stern to the south and/or east to maximize solar heating
6. Post contact numbers in cabin dockside window.
7. Leave keys with Marina office and a resident friend.
8. Ask friend to visit occasionally, inspect and run Wabasto heater briefly.

 

[Chimo]

An interesting check list, thanks. I'm sure that we all vary our approach depending on where we are but follow something similar. We are in a boathouse and use the boat at least every two weeks all year so some things are different.

Why do you leave all your battery switches 'on'? I normally turn off engine and thrusters whenever I leave the boat but leave the House on because of the fridge. In the winter I clean out the fridge and turn it off. I replace the box of baking soda that is always in there and leave it open for a few days to ensure it is completely dry, then turn it off. (Note: I run a dehumidifier in the cabin year round.) With no need to run the fridge I then turn off the house battery. Am I missing something?

 

[baz]

I keep my 2019 R29 CB NW Edition at Port of Edmonds in a covered slip all year round. I use my boat at least weekly for fishing and cruises with family members at times during summer and winter times (less so in the winter). During winter time all I do is to turn off the cockpit refrigerator and set the cabin one to #1. I also run two dehumidifiers; one in cabin and one in head room. I also have a full cockpit enclosure that faces south and with sun keeps the cockpit area toasty.

I only connect shore power for 24 hrs per week to save the under water anodes.

I only run the dehumidifiers when it gets really cold and leave shore power connected when I do this.

Over past 12 years I've never had an issue with anything freezing up.

 

[Shano]

A very comprehensive list. A couple of other ideas to further minimize any chance of damage would be to add the potable antifreeze to your bilge pump areas (enough to engage the pumps) and also flush a gallon of antifreeze into the toilet and then engage the macerater pump. You will need to have an assistant hold a small bucket by the outlet to catch the “output” until the antifreeze makes its appearance. Even though your holding tank will be mostly clean you may need to buy the assistant a beverage after this operation.

 

[Cutwater28GG]

why leave the batteries on?

shore power sockets for heaters work with the breakers off.

 

[Cutwater28GG]

to drain the hot water heater use the overpressure valve on the heater. there is a switch that will let you pump out most of the water into the bilge.

my biggest things are

unscrew the shower heads on the outside sink, the galley sink and head sink. theres always a little big of water left in these that will freeze and do damage.

#1 keep the cockpit drains clear of muck.

take off any canvas

check all lines for chafe/wear in the storms.

you shouldnt need to worry about fuel expansion as its cold all the time - ive never had an issue in the summer with a full tank so why in the winter?

 

[Dcsqatar]

Thanks for the feedback. I think a key difference in my plan is that I will be gone for 4 months and did not want to burden friends with more than observation and emergency intervention, if needed. I thought I would leave the electrical/batteries as is to simplify the ability of someone who might not be fully familiar with the boat to take emergency action like engine start. However, the chance of needing that is small, and maybe I should turn engine and thruster batteries off? I assume all batteries will continue to be charged, as needed, even when switched off, from the inverter/charger assuming connected to shore power.

I appreciate Baz’s guidance on minimizing shore power hookup, but as I will be gone for so long I don’t believe I have a choice. I did install a galvanic isolator so hopefully that will minimize zinc consumption. I am still considering a “guppy zinc” to protect boat zincs while at port.

From my experience, leaving refrigerators on low is better for controlling any mildew and odors then cleaning and turning off. Sounds like others think otherwise.

Any guidance on covering solar panel? Unfortunately there are no covered slips available and some bird poop is inevitable. Should I wrap the solar panel with plastic film?

 

[Cutwater28GG]

got it.

i find if I wipe out the fridge with a sanitizing clorox wipe and then leave ajar there is no mold in the spring.

if someone is capable of taking the boat out, they should be able to turn on the battery breakers as needed. I often leave a printed notice on the wheel to open the seacock and turn on the breakers in case anyone is operating the boat without me - like a mechanic. my worst fear is starting without the seacock open as the exhaust wont last long without the cooling water.

my solar panel is out all year round. no issues. also if the shore power is interupted its nice to get some solar jiuce into the batteries.