Winterizing Hot water tank in R29S

[S. Todd]

I do not like to drain the hot water tank into the bilge in our 2021 R29 because it is difficult to get the water out of there (boat sits bow down on its trailer). Therefore, what I do is: disconnect the water line coming out of the freshwater pump that feeds the water heater and the rest of the boat and suck the water out of that line with a 12-gallon shop vacuum. If you open the faucets so air can enter the water heater you can suck almost all the water from the water heater and the lines. After drawing out all the water that way, I take the extra step to run non-toxic antifreeze through the entire systems, just in case there is water left somewhere in the system. (It gets cold in northern Michigan, and I don't want to risk any freeze damage.)
Because the boat sits on a trailer, I also go around the outside of the hull with the shop vacuum and draw any leftover antifreeze or water from the through hull fittings. This deals with any potential water in the check valves from the bilge pumps and stops the drips on the garage floor.

 

[Pritch6397]

I do not like to drain the hot water tank into the bilge in our 2021 R29 because it is difficult to get the water out of there (boat sits bow down on its trailer). Therefore, what I do is: disconnect the water line coming out of the freshwater pump that feeds the water heater and the rest of the boat and suck the water out of that line with a 12-gallon shop vacuum. If you open the faucets so air can enter the water heater you can suck almost all the water from the water heater and the lines. After drawing out all the water that way, I take the extra step to run non-toxic antifreeze through the entire systems, just in case there is water left somewhere in the system. (It gets cold in northern Michigan, and I don't want to risk any freeze damage.)
Because the boat sits on a trailer, I also go around the outside of the hull with the shop vacuum and draw any leftover antifreeze or water from the through hull fittings. This deals with any potential water in the check valves from the bilge pumps and stops the drips on the garage floor.

Thanks

 

[Her Choice Ranger 29]

I do not like to drain the hot water tank into the bilge in our 2021 R29 because it is difficult to get the water out of there (boat sits bow down on its trailer). Therefore, what I do is: disconnect the water line coming out of the freshwater pump that feeds the water heater and the rest of the boat and suck the water out of that line with a 12-gallon shop vacuum. If you open the faucets so air can enter the water heater you can suck almost all the water from the water heater and the lines. After drawing out all the water that way, I take the extra step to run non-toxic antifreeze through the entire systems, just in case there is water left somewhere in the system. (It gets cold in northern Michigan, and I don't want to risk any freeze damage.)
Because the boat sits on a trailer, I also go around the outside of the hull with the shop vacuum and draw any leftover antifreeze or water from the through hull fittings. This deals with any potential water in the check valves from the bilge pumps and stops the drips on the garage floor.

did you say suck as in pull instead of blow out? I am down in KY but from Michigan and I was trying to make a 20 psi fitting like ranger shows on one of their winterization pages but being down on Lake Cumberland this month I have limited access to some parts. I was down on my belly in the quarter birth looking for a drain valve on the hot water tank and am currently searching archives for an answer to the hot water drain. I plan do do most if winterization while boat is in the water before I put it on the trailer and but it in a garage down here.

I purchased a sea flush kit and that should work for the gen, engine , but the strainer for the raw water is so large that I am hoping gravity feed of antifreeze into the strainer will be sufficient for the pumps to pull it.

 

[LMRanger]

We have a R25SC and the one thing we do here in San Diego to prepare for winter is ensure we each have a sweatshirt on board.

Of course we pay for this,

Ralph

 

[Maggie Anne]

 

[Her Choice Ranger 29]

View attachment 24127

Wow, thank you for the diagram. I watched the As the Prop Turns winterization Utube video again last night and they briefly talked about the black lower knob that I did see. I was wondering how it drained by turning but not coming off. Thank you.

 

[S. Todd]

Yes, I said suck, as in pull with a shop vacuum the water out of the hot water tank. Otherwise, it all drains into the lower bilge down under the cabin and you get all that water and humidity down there where it eventually has to flow to the aft bilge pump and be pumped overboard, leaving behind wet surfaces that have limited air flow to dry out.

 

[Her Choice Ranger 29]

Thank you for reply. Everything went as it should for genset, engine and raw water systems today. I pumped out water holding tank and turned black valve on hot water tank. I had no water drain out onto wood where tank is attached as I thought I would but definitely heard water draining out of IN port on tank and through cold line but have no idea where it drained to. No apparent water in bilge. Did it return to cold holding tank?

I do t think so as I removed the out side of water pump and turned on pump. Just some spatter of water. I blew hot and cold lines at 20 psi .

I would like to add antifreeze to water tank and run it throughout and cold too.

Scratching my head as to where hot water tank drained.

I have looked at more videos in last month on this process to make my head spin.

 

[Her Choice Ranger 29]

View attachment 24127

That drain valve worked , I heard the water drain but where did it drain to? Blue line on that fitting heads toward bow around front side of quarter birth ac unit but no idea where it goes from there. I was thinking it was a return line to main water tank.

If it drained to bilge I should be able to raise the bow and have it exit keel drain.

 

[Maggie Anne]

In my boat the hot water tank drains down to the bilge via a hose. I also found that it helps to have one of the hot water taps in the sink open when draining the hot water tank if you're just relying on gravity to drain. The air compressor method seems to get a bit more water out of the tank when the drain valve is open than just relying on gravity. .

 

[Her Choice Ranger 29]

In my boat the hot water tank drains down to the bilge via a hose. I also found that it helps to have one of the hot water taps in the sink open when draining the hot water tank if you're just relying on gravity to drain. The air compressor method seems to get a bit more water out of the tank when the drain valve is open than just relying on gravity. .

Thanks, I think I made a bigger issue out of the process than needed as I assumed the drain knob either released water at the knob on to the board that tank is screwed to or possibly drained back to the tank as they did not really explain that part in the As the Prop turns video. Draining to the bowls of the hull makes sense. I had zero issues blowing out the lines from the out side of the water pump then adding enough antifreeze to get both hot and cold to pump pink. I will just drain both tanks and blow them out again in Feb and clean both tanks. I know I used a lot more antifreeze than is needed but a few gallons lost in the process is not a concern to me at least. I appreciate the feedback, thank you. The entire process of doing all systems was really quite simple. I used the Sea Flush kit for the engine. It really sucks the stuff out of a bucket quick, and used a 5 gallon container with a hose and valve for the generator and raw water strainers. The sea flush system will not work for either of those as the strainers are incompatible. I have used a similar method for an old 1965 inboard for years. The water pump on the engine draws fluid a lot faster than a one inch hose can gravity feed.

Now that I did it on the tug I am a lot more confident that all systems are done correctly and only expenses in the future are just the bottles of antifreeze. Local shop wanted 500.00 to do it and they had never done a tug before. Plus it does not hurt to get ones eyes and nose poking around our systems anyway.

 

[S. Todd]

The hot water tank on our 2021 R29S drains via a line down into the bilge under the floor in the forward part of the hull. I found it by lifting the floor panel over the shower sump. It takes quite some time to get the water to drain to the aft part of the bilge once you raise the bow. That still leaves the residual wetness down there to hopefully dry before causing mold. That is why once I discovered that is how and where it drained, I started using the shop vacuum method of draining the tank. It takes some time but keeps the boat dry. You need a vacuum with significant capacity because there is 10 gallons of water to remove. After I remove the water and flush the lines with pink antifreeze, the vacuum gets back to work and sucks out the pink antifreeze. That pink antifreeze that is drawn out with the vacuum can then be reused to run through non-sanitary systems such as the air conditioners, sea water toilet and holding tank, and raw water washdown.