IdleUp
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
- Messages
- 50
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-248 C
- Vessel Name
- Linda Sue
In this Part 3 segment of winterizing, we’ll winterize the fresh water system. The first thing we’ll do is make sure the boat is level and open the faucet and pump the remaining water from the water tank.
Heater Bypass - Next, we’ll first have to bypass the hot water heater to avoid using 6 extra gallons of RV Solution to fill the water heater. I bypassed the water heater with just a hose coupling. Make sure the water is not hot & go ahead and drain the water heater with the lower faucet, you can speed it up a bit by opening the pressure release valve on the top of the heater.
Next, we’ll remove the two clamped hoses (inlet & outlet) from the heater and join them together with the coupling. This allows us to run RV solution through the both the cold and hot water circuits in the boat. After the coupling is in place, dump 5 gallons of RV Solution in the water tank fill on the starboard side. It will take around this much solution to dilute the small amount of water remaining in the tank that you can’t pump out.
Fresh Water Lines - Ok now that the solution is in the tank, run both galley and head sinks, and shower head into a good size pail(s) until you see the solution come out. (We’ll use this solution later) While you’re in the head, you’ll want to pour some straight RV solution directly into the floor drain until you hear the slump pump kick on a time or two to get the solution in the shower slump. Even though both the sinks run overboard, pour a bit in the drain, in the event the lines might have some fresh water trapped in them.
Water Heater - We’ll winterize the water heater by placing a small piece of tubing on a funnel and slip it over the upper water heater inlet. If you don’t have a piece of hose, you and easily remove the pressure relief hose off the valve, and use it to connect the funnel to the inlet. Pour some solution directly into the heater until the solution turns red and comes out the drain fully concentrated, then shut the valve off.
Holding Tank - The last thing left is the holding tank & macerator pump. First, we’ll run the fresh water pump again and recover as much of the remaining solution left in the fresh water tank. You should have 3-4 gallons or so, which we’ll use in the holding tank. After making sure the holding tank is pumped out, pour the recovered solution into the holding tank to both help dilute the remaining water in the tank and protect the macerator pump.
Enjoy – Mike Mas
This image shows the water heater before the bypass was installed w/ clamps loosened.
Here’s the coupling I picked up at Lowe’s
This image shows the hoses removed and bypass coupling installed
After pumping the tank dry - pour 5 gallons of RV solution in tank
Here I cut a few inches of hose from the pressure release valve to hook up the funnel to the upper inlet of the heater tank to pour solution in the heater.
Pour the solution in the heater until the solution comes out fully consentrated.
As I pumped the solution from the water tank I captured it in a few pails
And dumped it into the holding tank to winterize the tank and macerator pump
Heater Bypass - Next, we’ll first have to bypass the hot water heater to avoid using 6 extra gallons of RV Solution to fill the water heater. I bypassed the water heater with just a hose coupling. Make sure the water is not hot & go ahead and drain the water heater with the lower faucet, you can speed it up a bit by opening the pressure release valve on the top of the heater.
Next, we’ll remove the two clamped hoses (inlet & outlet) from the heater and join them together with the coupling. This allows us to run RV solution through the both the cold and hot water circuits in the boat. After the coupling is in place, dump 5 gallons of RV Solution in the water tank fill on the starboard side. It will take around this much solution to dilute the small amount of water remaining in the tank that you can’t pump out.
Fresh Water Lines - Ok now that the solution is in the tank, run both galley and head sinks, and shower head into a good size pail(s) until you see the solution come out. (We’ll use this solution later) While you’re in the head, you’ll want to pour some straight RV solution directly into the floor drain until you hear the slump pump kick on a time or two to get the solution in the shower slump. Even though both the sinks run overboard, pour a bit in the drain, in the event the lines might have some fresh water trapped in them.
Water Heater - We’ll winterize the water heater by placing a small piece of tubing on a funnel and slip it over the upper water heater inlet. If you don’t have a piece of hose, you and easily remove the pressure relief hose off the valve, and use it to connect the funnel to the inlet. Pour some solution directly into the heater until the solution turns red and comes out the drain fully concentrated, then shut the valve off.
Holding Tank - The last thing left is the holding tank & macerator pump. First, we’ll run the fresh water pump again and recover as much of the remaining solution left in the fresh water tank. You should have 3-4 gallons or so, which we’ll use in the holding tank. After making sure the holding tank is pumped out, pour the recovered solution into the holding tank to both help dilute the remaining water in the tank and protect the macerator pump.
Enjoy – Mike Mas
This image shows the water heater before the bypass was installed w/ clamps loosened.
Here’s the coupling I picked up at Lowe’s
This image shows the hoses removed and bypass coupling installed
After pumping the tank dry - pour 5 gallons of RV solution in tank
Here I cut a few inches of hose from the pressure release valve to hook up the funnel to the upper inlet of the heater tank to pour solution in the heater.
Pour the solution in the heater until the solution comes out fully consentrated.
As I pumped the solution from the water tank I captured it in a few pails
And dumped it into the holding tank to winterize the tank and macerator pump