Wrapping vs. batteries

[SLyle01]

Pocket Yachts recommends shrink-wrapping. What is the opinion about moisture accumulation under shrink-wrap? Are Dri-bags effective? How many and where i.e. in an R27?

ALSO, how can you maintain batteries over winter with the solar-panel essentially blocked (& stored in a Boatyard)?
The bilge pumps will continue to cycle automatically every few minutes to 'test' for water, but would eventually drain House batteries over winter (without i.e. solar-charging). Is it better to just d/c the battery (engine?) which powers the bilge pumps? (R27 batteries are extremely hard to access).
Thx.

 

[scross]

In answer to shrink wrap from an earlier thread:
“I shrink-wrapped my old boat one winter in Southern Oregon where it is dryer than the PNW and, despite having 3 gallon buckets full off desiccant inside the boat, still got mold. Per West Marine, “Shrink wrapping a boat effectively seals out dirt, debris, rain, snow and critters that would like to call your boat home. However, shrink wrap also traps all the moisture inside, which can lead to condensation and mold. The best way to prevent this is to thoroughly dry out your boat before installing the shrink wrap.” You can’t get inside your boat to check it or replace the desiccant while it is shrink wrapped. I will never shrink wrap again!“

I’m assuming you don’t have access to power. If you did, it’s easy - one Calframo True North heater set to automatic at 38 degrees in the cabin, two Calframo Stor-Mor dehumidifiers running full time in the cabin and a Golden Rod running full time in the engine compartment. Make sure these units are placed in a location where the heat of the units will not cause any problems.

Without power I’d recommend tarps and lots and lots of DampRid or similar product and checking/refreshing it every couple of weeks.

I’d try to figure out some way to keep the solar panel(s) uncovered. With tarps you may be able to do that.

Good luck!

 

[dclagett]

I have shrink-wrapped my RT the last 3 seasons. No mold or any bad smell. I use damp-rid in the hanging bags and change them as needed. Most businesses that do shrink-wrapping in MD put a door on the side of the swim platform for easy access to the cockpit and cabin and vents to let out moisture. Also I put 2 tea tree oil containers in the cabin. As far as the batteries go the solar panel will keep them charged under white shrink wrap, don’t use the blue or other dark colors.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

I’ve shrunk wrapped a boat prior to our Ranger Tugs in Northern Michigan. One was wrapped and outside for over a year and I had no moisture or mold problems. I’d also say that I had vents installed on the shrink wrap that let moisture escape. Snow slides off very nicely from the shrink wrap, as long as there is a pitch to the wrap, which requires a bit of superstructure. I’d pull the drain plug, disconnect all of the cables at the batteries terminals and bring them home for the winter. Once a month or 6 weeks put a charge on them and call it good.....but that’s me.

Jim F

 

[rpmerrill]

I'm with dclagett.
We've got the same climate you have, just across the bay. I've done the shrink wrap for the past three years.
I've had a door installed in the wrap, just because I've had a couple tinkering projects I wanted to do in the winter.
Never felt muggy during my visits.
White shrink wrap passes enough light to generate about an amp or at least a good fraction of an amp on nice days. It keeps the batteries nicely charged. (in the 12's). One time I needed 120 volts for my tools and a trouble light on board. I ran an extension cord to the boat and, since it was plugged in I turned on the charger just for "fun". Thinking back, maybe I could have used the inverter?

I have used one drier canister and it collects maybe a pint or so of water. The shrink wrap is vented but I close up the cabin on the boat. No mold or moisture problems.

All battery switches off and drain plug pulled.
Environment in the covered boat is no worse than the environment in my garage.

Shrink wrap is REALLY good at shedding the snow and ice. It is also good at shedding anyone who steps on the shrink wrapped swim platform. A light dusting of powder snow is particularly diabolical. (Personal experience.) Lack of shrink wrap could cause pile up in the cockpit, blockage of the scuppers and God knows what kind of damage.

 

[bails023]

Agree with dclagett - shrink wrap is a good way to go. I am on the South River just south of Annapolis and have shrink wrapped my C-28 on a lift for five years. No moisture problems. I have shore power available all year and run a couple of the round West Marine dryers in the closed cabin when wrapped. The vents take care of the outdoor areas. The zipper door is a nice feature to allow inspections (and a way to get away on the boat on warm days).

 

[rpmerrill]

Was just looking back up at the original post.

Not sure I've ever seen or heard of the bilge pump issue?
Anyone?

 

[dclagett]

Some bilge pumps auto turn on to test if water is present, if present it will pump it out, if not it will turn off. If I had one of those pumps I would pull the fuse so it would not activate during the time the boat is stored. With the solar panels I would leave the batteries connected so they are maintained during storage as long as the panels get sufficient light.

 

[SLyle01]

Great responses everyone. We were concerned (our first boat, what do WE know?) about battery charging under the wrap vs. mildew. Seems like pretty much a non-issue: Monitor for mildew and solar panel should maintain a 'trickle' to the 4 batteries. I sure didn't look forward to trying to access, d/c and haul off those 4 'semi-hidden', heavy AGM batteries..(or having to replace the connections correctly in the Spring!). Will use several Dri-bags and monitor them (via a 'door' in the wrap).
Especially like the idea of pulling fuses (wherever they are?) and shut off the hard wired self-testing bilge pumps, thanks. They could very well freeze up and be damaged in cycling all winter.

 

[Pilotnavigator]

AGM batteries are not subject to drainage like regular lead acid batteries. For the past 4 winters I have just fully charged my 4 AGM batteries then disconnected the negative, yellow, cable from each battery at the end of the season. Thus ensuring that any “always connected draws” are dead. Each spring I check the battery voltage and each one as always been 12.7 volts. Disconnecting each one, even if you are sure all power is off, ensures that if one battery happens to go bad with a dead cell or a short, it will not kill all the others in the bank.
I have three house and one starter battery on my 21EC. All are group 27 optima AGM blue top batteries.
I shrink wrap my boat with vents in the cover and a container of dry agent in the cabin.
Never had a problem.

 

[Subs]

Kind of a hijack, but if you have access to power is there any reason a pigtail couldn’t be used to maintain the batteries through the existing charger? I’m new to winter boat storage as well and heading into my first in the next couple of weeks.

 

[rackline]

Kind of a high jack, but if you have access to power is there any reason a pigtail couldn’t be used to maintain the batteries through the existing charger? I’m new to winter boat storage as well and heading into my first in the next couple of weeks.

I use an adapter to plug the shore power cable into a regular outlet. Only issue is that it trips the garage GFIs so I plug it into a non GFI outlet.