zinc or aluminum prop protecton

captstu

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2014
Messages
862
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Vessel Name
Shearwater IV (SOLD)
Hi,

I just swapped out a completely eroded aluminum "zinc" on my prop nut. The other zincs are real zinc and last about a year.

Should I use zinc or aluminum to protect the prop.

The boat is in the ICW and subject to a mix of fresh and salt water. She is plugged into a fairly new marina that doesn't seem to be eroding any other zincs on the boat.

Thanks /Stu
 
I would say go with what is working. Scientifically the weakest metal will corrode first, hence the zinc will corrode before your boat metals. I am not sure if aluminum is weaker than zinc. If so, tghat is probably why it is corroding much faster.
 
Rule of thumb. Magnesium fresh water
aluminum fresh/brackish/salt
Zinc Salt water

We had Zinc original installation from Cutwater, fresh water use it actually oxidized the zinc and it did nothing. It is recommended that I use magnesium on Lake Michigan. I changed to Magnesium and saw a that the protection was working after a full season 50% of the anode was missing. 3 months of being in the water. Electric on with only battery charger breaker on during the week and all systems on during weekends. I would rather see the anodes sacrificing then not. The thrusters anodes and trim tab anodes are not bonded so they should last a bit longer unless the marina is (hot). When we make it to Salt water ( I hope soon ) I will try aluminum first, if I am able to get 3 months out of aluminum and know I'm getting anode protection I would rather have that then a zinc that last much longer. I'm not sure if my thought process is correct. If I find that I'm not getting 3 months out of Aluminum then I'll switch to Zinc. Every marina, water way, can be have different conditions in the water. It is also recommend that all anodes should be the same material. The weakest anode will be the most active. If all the anodes are the same they are protecting at the same level.
 
The degree to which an anode deteriorates is not necessarily indicative of how well it is protecting. If it is not deteriorating that may simply mean that the environment is passive. As long as the anode material is a stronger anode than the material being protected(the cathode) then it will do its job. Either one of the materials listed will protect bronze/stainless steel. But you wouldn't want to us an aluminum anode to protect an outboard motor with an aluminum foot. Either zinc or magnesium alloy should be used for an outboard.

Magnesium is a stronger anode than zinc which is in turn stronger than aluminum. The more corrosive the environment is the less anodic material is typically recommended simply in order to extend the life of the anode. It is in fact advantageous(i.e. strongest protection) to use the most anodic material possible assuming the longevity is serviceable. But it is counter productive to use a highly anodic material if it deteriorates completely and isn't immediately replaced. That's why aluminum is often used in salt water rather than zinc.

For all of the above the proof is in the results. Whether or not the anode is deteriorating it is doing its job if the protected equipment is not experiencing corrosion. At my place of work we used aluminum anodes in salt water to protect carbon steel pilings/docks/piers. After 40 years no major underwater repairs have been necessary. The anodes are replaced annually as a matter of course.
 
Dan, I agree with most of what you said and that was great information about the aluminum protection of the carbon steel docks. I'm not very knowledgeable about the protection other then all the stuff we did back in the 80's and 90's with stern drive and outboard lower unit corrosion. First change was Mercruiser and Outboard Marine Corporation changed from using Zinc anodes to Aluminum. Magnesium anodes have a electrical potential of -1.6V, Zinc -1.05V and Aluminum slightly higher -1.1 then the zinc.This adds more protection to the drive. I'm not sure if this is still true but in the 90's if zinc anodes were used on Mercruisers it would Void the corrosion warranty . (aluminum housings are a different alloy then the Aluminum anode) Aluminum anodes have aluminum, zinc and indium, this is called Navalloy. The issue with Magnesium use is it can over protect the lower unit. The only time Magnesium should be used is in clean fresh water. Aluminum anode is your best choice for Lower Units.

Many use zinc on their inboard boats protecting the bronze and stainless steel hardware under the water, Aluminum is very close to the same voltage potential and both are effective an can not over protect the hardware. Both material should have close to the same life span used in the same environment. Some manufactures using true Navalloy claim longer relative life with Al. over the zinc. I agree with you on this statement " The degree to which an anode deteriorates is not necessarily indicative of how well it is protecting. If it is not deteriorating that may simply mean that the environment is passive."


My issue with zinc especially in fresh water is not that the Zinc will not protect hardware under water because it will. The issue with zinc ( especially in fresh /polluted/and brackish water) anodes can become inactive after only a few months due to the build up of an insulating film of zinc hydroxide. Aluminum will not do this and remain active. A boater can be using the Zinc anode and pull the boat and think that the fact that the zinc looks good he is in good shape but in reality he has no protection at all. After our first season with zinc I found no change in the zinc other then it was a very dull grey. I used magnesium on Lake Michigan which is clean water and find a considerable amount of wear or erosion of material. Because our boat is trailerable and I periodically pull it out of the water. I believe the aluminum anode is the good choice for protection in all waters. This agrees with the standards set by the ABYC. Another factor is the thruster anodes are recommended to be aluminum I like having the same anode materials in the water. Good information Dan I enjoy reading your posts.
 
Dan/Brian. Thank you! I’m in a mixture of brackish and salt water and saw the shell Dan mentioned before I switched to aluminum. Great advice.
 
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