Zincs, Thru-Hull Questions

[aroett]

Hello all,

I have a 2010 R29 classic and will be hauling her out for the 1st time next week, and have a couple questions:

1. Does anyone have a list of the required zinc sizes (prop, thrusters, trim tabs, swim grid struts)? I know what they all look like, but not the sizes.

2. I need to fix/replace the seacock valve. I rudely discovered that the ball valve is not full closing and some water comes through even when closed. Maybe not seating right or something, but obviously needs fixing. I can see some white goop is on the threads of the bronze thru hull where it connects to the ball valve and all the other threads associated with the raw water system. I thought just teflon tape but obviously want to make this system as safe as possible so what should I use on the threads when I put back together?

Thanks for any help!

Adey
Ryk (2010 R29)

 

[SkookumR29]

Below is a zinc summary from a post I submitted several months back.

The following is a list of the zinc anodes we use on our 2011 R29.

Bow & Stern Thrusters: Side Power part number SM31180A; I source those through Fisheries Supply in Seattle, but they are also available at boatzincs.com.

Prop Nut Zinc: Size "F" for 1-1/2" shaft; I source these either from the Ranger Tugs Factory, or from boatzincs.com.

Trim Tab Zincs: Martyr CMR-3; I source these from Ranger Tugs factory, or from boatzincs.com.

Transom Zinc: Martyr "Divers Dream" mini; I source these from the local boat yard in Des Moines, WA, but they are also available at boatzincs.com.

Engine Zincs (2 each): Part number 120650-13420; I source these at boatzincs.com.

I find it helpful to buy all of these in quantities that provide me a stock on hand, so that I am prepared for the diver or a haul-out on short notice and to avoid a scramble at the last minute to get what I need.

 

[knotflying]

Since you are out of the water, I suggest that you check the bolts holding the exhaust outlet to the hull. Look on the inside, not the outside. These have been known to corrode and if they let go it will be catastrophic. With a 2010 the integrity of these bolts is highly suspect. Just don't look at them. Put a socket on each bolt and try to tighten it. If only one breaks I would remove them all, reseat the outlet and replace the bolts and nuts. If it wasn't bonded you should also bond it. This is not a difficult job. Also, While you are at it check out the integrity of the exhaust hose. At 12 years old it could be dried out.

 

[AGLyme]

I purchased a 2013 R-31cb and it spent its life in fresh water. The boat arrives early next week and I want to replace the mag "zincs" with real zinc as the boat will be living in salt & brackish wate on the CT shoreline.

SkookumR29 thank you for providing your list of zincs for your R29. It is the only such list I can find on the internet.

I am in the process of figuring out if the R31 has the same diameter shaft as the R29, etc... I also have to figure out the zincs for the Volvo P D4 300 engine.

If anyone knows of a "list of zincs" for a R31, or, for a D4 300 I would be grateful.

Thanks all.

 

[AGLyme]

Boat arrived today...
All the magnesiums were replaced by Zinc. If I can do it, anyone can. Boat arrived by truck from Canada and will be splashed in southeastern CT... new home is the Old Lyme Marina.

The only change I would make to SkookumR29's list is that the trim tab zincs are 4" instead of 3" for the next owner seeking advice on the 31...