D 300 2014 two engine zincs

I understand the two zincs on the 2014 D300 Volvo engine have been deleted on the newer boat engines. My boat, during my tenure, will be in the Great Lakes. It is my understanding my 2014 engine is the same D300 engine presently in the newer boats where the two zincs have been deleted. May I believe the two zincs in my 2014 R31S D 300 engine need no longer be maintained?

I wouldn't assume that . I just replaced the zincs on my 2013 D4-260. Both were almost gone.

Martin610":2gdgq5ux said:

I wouldn't assume that . I just replaced the zincs on my 2013 D4-260. Both were almost gone.

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do you have any tips on getting to the forward one and what tool you used? Im really struggling with doing the forward one

I replaced the zincs on my D3-300 in our R31CB last year, with 5 years use. Think they are available from RT. Not very worn. Later models did away with.
Bill

mine are trashed after a year. definitely need replacing. as I unscrew the anode from the bolt it looks ok but crumbles in my hands

You have 2. You need an open end 14mm wrench to loosen the brass plug. The plug is square so you must use an open end only. The forward zinc(aftercooler) is the hardest to loosen because the belt gets in the way. The other one is easy peasey. Do this one for the heat exchanger first to get a feel for them.

0n my D4-260, the forward zinc is a bear. I used a short ratchet handle and laid down on the engine, head toward bow. I think it was an 18mm socket. Make sure to turn wrench correct way. Remember, no Teflon tape or anything like that. You need a good electrical connection.

A square pipe plug socket is the best tool for removal of tight pipe plugs. There is less chance of rounding the edges. It gives positive contact to the plug square and allows you to use a ratchet for the right angle. Using a open end only gives you two angles to work with. The next choice of socket would be a 8 point socket. The right tool for the job makes it easier.

Many DIY and technicians experience issues with anode plug removal because it was installed tight to prevent leaking. It seals because of the tapered thread. Many do not use a thread sealer or tape because continuity may be compromised. In my experience a wise tale. Actually better continuity is maintained using tape or pipe sealant. The plug thread base is protected from corrosion and the wider portion of the taper cuts through making contact, the plug doesn't need to be as tight to seal so next time the anode needs to be replaced it's removal is easier. If you don't believe me try this. Before removal check continuity between the plug and the exchanger. If there is continuity the corrosion between the plug and exchanger has not caused a poor connection between the plug/anode and exchanger. If there is not continuity then corrosion high and the anode is doing nothing ( no sealant or tape used). You are probably going to have a hard time getting the plug out. Once the plug is removed apply pipe sealant or teflon tape to the plug, install plug and tighten snugly but do not over tighten so removal in the future will be easier. Check for leaks and snug as needed. Now check continuity between the plug and the exchanger. You will be surprised ,you will have continuity now and when you remove the plug and plug removal will be easier. There are many articles backing this theory. I have always applied sealant and this includes the drain plug for the boat.

thanks all

this is the forward plug in question right?


additional angles:

Cutwater28GG":3gqor72b said:

thanks all

this is the forward plug in question right?

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Yes, two anodes used with a D4 raw water side exchanger and charge air cooler. Fwd is exchanger that your photos show. the rear is charge air cooler.( Square head plug)
Size: 1/2" NPT
Wrench: 13mm

Unfortunately there isn't a 8 point 13mm metric socket. The closest that will work is 9/16 8 point. If you can't break it loose with a 13MM open end or get a good bite. A 9/16 8 point may work but don't round the square. Try one of these confirm that the square is 13mm as OEM specs indicate.
https://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/bolts- ... ocket.html

As I struggle to understand the chemistry of galvanic reactions I am left wondering why the older engines needed zincs and the newer ones do not. Can anyone assist? Brian?

Does anyone have the knowledge to discuss the difference of engine zinc wear on the D4 in salt verses fresh water and, then, 2014 engines with two zincs and later with no zincs.

I would guess Volvo started using alloys that were more corrosion resistant.

To the answer your original question. My opinion would be yes you need to maintain the Anodes that the OEM installed. The OEM still maintains a part number for the application. If there is and when there is a service bulletin stating that previous model year D4's do not need to maintain engine anodes that is when I would assume it is ok not to maintain them. Why they quit installing them in newer engines would be a question for a Volvo engineer. Even then you may not get an answer and if you do it may not be the right one. Volvo is very "shut mouth" about their designs. My guess is they changed the metallurgy of the shell or tube bundle for exchanger and after cooler that reduced the anodes effectiveness or was not needed. I do know that there are different part numbers for the newer exchangers and after coolers. Along with that there are different part numbers for the tube bundles.

barling":2cgap4e1 said:

I understand the two zincs on the 2014 D300 Volvo engine have been deleted on the newer boat engines. My boat, during my tenure, will be in the Great Lakes. It is my understanding my 2014 engine is the same D300 engine presently in the newer boats where the two zincs have been deleted. May I believe the two zincs in my 2014 R31S D 300 engine need no longer be maintained?

Click to expand...

barling":2cgap4e1 said:

Does anyone have the knowledge to discuss the difference of engine zinc wear on the D4 in salt verses fresh water and, then, 2014 engines with two zincs and later with no zincs.

Click to expand...

Sacrificial anodes for the most part last much longer in fresh water in a comparison to salt water. It is my experience that an anode material change should be made if the boat is used primarily in fresh water. If the engine manufacture gives you a choice aluminum or zinc in fresh water I would choose aluminum. If there is only one part number use the OEM part number. The rest of the boats anodes should be changed to Aluminum. Zinc Anodes are not recommended and do very little is fresh water. If you are boating only Great Lakes and no river systems I would go one step more and use magnesium. I had original installed zinc anodes on my C26 2016 and found the only thing they did was oxidize and became useless ( Lake Michigan ). The following year I switched to Aluminum ( good for Fresh, brackish and salt water) after a full season I notice a slight amount of erosion about 80% material still present. I keep the boat in a well maintained marina, I have a galvanic isolator installed and its sits in fresh water all this make a big difference in anode longevity. To answer your question completely. I would still recommend changing all anodes yearly even if used in fresh water. The anodes are only good if there is complete continuity to the metal they are protecting. They are also less effective when there is a layer of oxidation on the surface of the anode. This normally happens when the boat is dry docked. Zinc material forms the layer faster and is not effective at all when there is oxidation on the surface. Cleaning the oxidation off will help but the dust is hazardous material do not breath it. Just replace the anodes. When I was servicing boats for a living anode replacement along with many other maintenance items was part of my winterize program. Making the boats mechanically ready for turn key spring launch.

Brian: Once again an excellent and detailed answer. Many thanks.

Thanks Brian, for your informed response. My 2014 R31S, now in Michigan, only has zinc anodes on it as it was previously used in salt. My use will only be in the Great Lakes. In 50 years of owning sailboats on the Great Lakes, zinc anodes were used, the Michigan marinas only sold zinc, and I now find new Ranger boats going to Ranger dealers in the fresh water Great Lakes arrive with all zinc anodes, except where they may be painted. I don't care to ask a Great Lakes Ranger dealer what they do, as a matter of course, about the zincs when a Ranger is sold for use in the Great Lakes. Brian, your discussion is absolutely correct about zincs, aluminum and magnesium, but in actual practice it just isn't applied that way. It must be that way because everyone is uninformed, aluminum and magnesium anodes are hard to find, are much more expensive, the difference in wear is minimal, people only own these boats for a few years and just don't care, or what? Now....to search for magnesium..... and then aluminum anodes for my boat.

in case anyone is interested...

This is what the zinc looks like after 12 months. definitely needed changing



i managed to get it changed (with thanks to the confidence you guys gave me!) with a 15mm socket on an extended socket wrench

Could anybody help me find the engine anodes on my 2014 Volvo D4-300. Do I have to use a mirror to find them? Is this something that an owner could do? I know where the manual says they are, but it is hard to find the actual nuts where they are located.