Where does the solar panel wire enter boat?

[Rode Trip]

Hi, I'm looking to add a solar panel and MPPT for my next large project. Thanks to Tlkenyon and 4umfreak I was able to see pictures of their y-valve/macerator/overboard setups so I could duplicate it while taking on that project, so hoping for more of the same help. Where does the solar panel wiring enter your boat on a R25 or 27? Not sure where I'm going to mount the MPPT yet as I have a generator taking a lot of the space in the forward port cockpit locker. Photos would be much appreciated but a description still helps. Factory install or after market, looking for the cleanest way to route the wiring. Thanks.

 

[Red Raven]

On our R27 Classic the solar panel wiring enters the boat through the aft side of the faux smokestack. Don’t know the exact wire path from there but the solar controller is located on the aft wall of the port cockpit locker just forward of the battery locker.

 

[scross]

Our 2009 R-25 Classic didn’t have any solar. Here’s how I installed it.

 

[Rode Trip]

Thank you both, very helpful. I think I will go the route of Scross unless someone has another idea.

 

[CaspersCruiser]

If your boat has the GPS antenna mounted on top of the false stack, there is a hole in the roof under it for the GPS cable. The solar panel wiring on my 2012 R27 enters the false stack from the back side (as described by Red Raven above) then goes through the same hole as the GPS antenna cable. To route new wiring through that hole under the false stack would involve taking down the mast and then taking up the stack tunnel and taking down parts of the headliner in the cabin. Either way you go will involve some fairly extensive work. Pick your poison.

 

[Rode Trip]

If your boat has the GPS antenna mounted on top of the false stack, there is a hole in the roof under it for the GPS cable. The solar panel wiring on my 2012 R27 enters the false stack from the back side (as described by Red Raven above) then goes through the same hole as the GPS antenna cable. To route new wiring through that hole under the false stack would involve taking down the mast and then taking up the stack tunnel and taking down parts of the headliner in the cabin. Either way you go will involve some fairly extensive work. Pick your poison.

I don't have a GPS antenna but there is a tv antenna behind the faux stack. I'm leaning towards the way scross did it so I don't have to disassemble the roof and overhead in the cabin. Still have to see if I can find room in the generator compartment for the mppt otherwise I will be putting that in the cave like scross too.

 

[Ted Rathjen]

On our R27 Classic the solar panel wiring enters the boat through the aft side of the faux smokestack. Don’t know the exact wire path from there but the solar controller is located on the aft wall of the port cockpit locker just forward of the battery locker.

 

[Ted Rathjen]

On our R27 Classic the solar panel wiring enters the boat through the aft side of the faux smokestack. Don’t know the exact wire path from there but the solar controller is located on the aft wall of the port cockpit locker just forward of the battery locker.

Happy New Year. New on the site. We have a 2013 R27C and considering upgrading our 140 watt solar panel. Did you upgrade to a larger panel and how difficult to snake new wires from the stack to the sun saver Duo located in the generator locker, or was the wiring provided from old panel generic.We’ve decided to use our mooring this year which we own rather than a slip with shore power.

 

[Red Raven]

Happy New Year. New on the site. We have a 2013 R27C and considering upgrading our 140 watt solar panel. Did you upgrade to a larger panel and how difficult to snake new wires from the stack to the sun saver Duo located in the generator locker, or was the wiring provided from old panel generic.We’ve decided to use our mooring this year which we own rather than a slip with shore power.

6 years ago I added a second 140w solar panel in parallel using the existing wiring with no issues. It was pretty much right near the current limit for both the Sunsaver duo and the wiring. The Sunsaver Duo voltage limits will not support a series connection. More recently I changed the Sunsaver Duo to an MPPT controller and rewired the two 140w panels in series resulting in a nice increase in efficiency due to the MPPT controller and the lower current and less voltage drop in the wiring due to the series connection. This winter I took the next step and changed out the two 140w panels for a single 430w panel for a 75% increase in power still using the original wiring.

Curt

 

[scross]

6 years ago I added a second 140w solar panel in parallel using the existing wiring with no issues. It was pretty much right near the current limit for both the Sunsaver duo and the wiring. The Sunsaver Duo voltage limits will not support a series connection. More recently I changed the Sunsaver Duo to an MPPT controller and rewired the two 140w panels in series resulting in a nice increase in efficiency due to the MPPT controller and the lower current and less voltage drop in the wiring due to the series connection. This winter I took the next step and changed out the two 140w panels for a single 430w panel for a 75% increase in power still using the original wiring.

Curt

Curt,
A local installer has some new, very efficient 405 watt panels on sale for $125 each. Thinking about yet another upgrade from our current 335 watt LG panel. The additional 17.5 AmpHrs a day is pretty tempting.
The new panel is the same width (40.9”) but 6” longer (75.7” long) which is the absolute max length that will fit on our C-28 roof. And anything more than 405 watts would require a bigger solar controller.
I would need to go to 6 AWG from VE 100/30 solar controller to the battery if I upgrade. I’m running 8 AWG now. Also would need to go to a “bigger” resettable breaker next to the battery on that run.
Did you change out the wiring from controller to battery at some point?

 

[Ted Rathjen]

6 years ago I added a second 140w solar panel in parallel using the existing wiring with no issues. It was pretty much right near the current limit for both the Sunsaver duo and the wiring. The Sunsaver Duo voltage limits will not support a series connection. More recently I changed the Sunsaver Duo to an MPPT controller and rewired the two 140w panels in series resulting in a nice increase in efficiency due to the MPPT controller and the lower current and less voltage drop in the wiring due to the series connection. This winter I took the next step and changed out the two 140w panels for a single 430w panel for a 75% increase in power still using the original wiring.

Curt

Thank you Curt. If I update to 430w panel are you saying you are using the original wiring for the single panel? Or did you update that wiring when you added the 2 panels. If that’s the first case all I would need to upgrade the controller and breaker. I’ve begun researching local panel companies to purchase from. Finding most companies will ship bulk not single panels. Any suggestions.
Ted Rathjen
Two-Old -Dogs
Noank Ct

 

[Red Raven]

Curt,
A local installer has some new, very efficient 405 watt panels on sale for $125 each. Thinking about yet another upgrade from our current 335 watt LG panel. The additional 17.5 AmpHrs a day is pretty tempting.
The new panel is the same width (40.9”) but 6” longer (75.7” long) which is the absolute max length that will fit on our C-28 roof. And anything more than 405 watts would require a bigger solar controller.
I would need to go to 6 AWG from VE 100/30 solar controller to the battery if I upgrade. I’m running 8 AWG now. Also would need to go to a “bigger” resettable breaker next to the battery on that run.
Did you change out the wiring from controller to battery at some point?

Hi Al,
I bought my Sil-430 QD panel from Platt Electric (thanks for the suggestion to go through Platt!). I was able to pick it up directly an avoid the large freight charge for such a large panel. $265. This panel is narrower than the two 140w panels were and gives more room for our kayak (as well as reducing the chance of shade from the kayak). It is longer but still fits fine, extending over the bimini just a bit. My controller is good for panels up to 550W.
I have not upgraded the factory wiring from the controller to the battery yet, only changed the fuse to 40A which is the max the 10AWG wire can take. On our boat it is less than 6 feet round trip from controller to the battery so the voltage drop is still fairly low but not the most efficient so still debating whether to change battery charge wiring and add a resettable breaker. If I do, I’m thinking I’ll go with 6AWG and a 50A breaker to allow for some increase in charge in the future.

 

[Red Raven]

Thank you Curt. If I update to 430w panel are you saying you are using the original wiring for the single panel? Or did you update that wiring when you added the 2 panels. If that’s the first case all I would need to upgrade the controller and breaker. I’ve begun researching local panel companies to purchase from. Finding most companies will ship bulk not single panels. Any suggestions.
Ted Rathjen
Two-Old -Dogs
Noank Ct

Yes, I am still using the factory wiring from the panel to the controller. The wiring is 10AWG and the panel has a short circuit rating of 13.8 amps. The wiring has a round trip probably near 30 feet so not ideal from a voltage drop standpoint but still better than when I was running the two 140W panels in parrallel (around 18A then). My original plan was to run two 210W panels in series to get the voltage up and the current down but two panels tend to interfere with and get shadowed by our kayak which is also up there. The single panel is narrower than the two and reduces the chance of shadowing. The single panel was also cheaper than the two. Always a compromise.
Shipping a single panel is expensive. I bought from Platt Electric (local distributor in the NW) and picked it up myself.

Curt

 

[Ted Rathjen]

Yes, I am still using the factory wiring from the panel to the controller. The wiring is 10AWG and the panel has a short circuit rating of 13.8 amps. The wiring has a round trip probably near 30 feet so not ideal from a voltage drop standpoint but still better than when I was running the two 140W panels in parrallel (around 18A then). My original plan was to run two 210W panels in series to get the voltage up and the current down but two panels tend to interfere with and get shadowed by our kayak which is also up there. The single panel is narrower than the two and reduces the chance of shadowing. The single panel was also cheaper than the two. Always a compromise.
Shipping a single panel is expensive. I bought from Platt Electric (local distributor in the NW) and picked it up myself.

Curt

Greatly appreciate your assistance and advice. I’m calling around New England suppliers to locate panels to reduce shipping. Learned a lot from all the posts.

 

[Michael11]

Hi, I'm looking to add a solar panel and MPPT for my next large project. Thanks to Tlkenyon and 4umfreak I was able to see pictures of their y-valve/macerator/overboard setups so I could duplicate it while taking on that project, so hoping for more of the same help. Where does the solar panel wiring enter your boat on a R25 or 27? Not sure where I'm going to mount the MPPT yet as I have a generator taking a lot of the space in the forward port cockpit locker. Photos would be much appreciated but a description still helps. Factory install or after market, looking for the cleanest way to route the wiring. Thanks.

Hi,

On an R25 or R27, solar panel wiring usually enters through a watertight deck fitting near the panel. Common routes are through the cabin roof or radar arch. For the MPPT, if space is tight due to the generator, try under the helm or a ventilated storage area. Follow existing conduits for clean wiring.

Good luck!