What did you work on/fix today?

Is that fan hard wired or USB?
 
I am tired of dirty water from rinsing the gunwale after doing a pumpout running into the cockpit. This simple soft rubber trim piece solves my problem without creating a trip hazard when walking forward. Just this small increase in height takes care of 95% of water. It also lines up with my canvas for the back, so when the canvas is on it helps with splash from waves etc. it works so well that I put it on both sides of the boat.

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SKing said:
I am tired of dirty water from rinsing the gunwale after doing a pumpout running into the cockpit. This simple soft rubber trim piece solves my problem without creating a trip hazard when walking forward. Just this small increase in height takes care of 95% of water. It also lines up with my canvas for the back, so when the canvas is on it helps with splash from waves etc. it works so well that I put it on both sides of the boat.

View attachment 24931View attachment 24932
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I have the same problem on my R31, specifically the port side.

What is the trim did you use? Is it just 3M sticky backed or did you silicon it?
 
It's just a 3M sticky back came already adhered. Soft silicone trim piece. I think I found it by looking for shower related trim pieces
 
Marked all my anchor chain in 5ft increments after watching an as the prop turns and realizing I had no idea how much I let out and just hope for the best. Also checked the gear for any issues and untangled it all

IMG_5734.jpeg
 
Removed the TV and mount in the front cabin and made a wood shelf to take it's place. I should have used teak but I had some red oak in my pile of wood. Turns out Varathane Wood Stain "Gunstock" on red oak is a pretty close match to teak. I am pleased on how it came out.


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That's way more useful than the TV. Looks nice.
 
Which boat and where is this located on the boat?
 
A week ago I relocated my soundbar for the TV. We watch either DVD movies or YouTube via a Roku. The soundbar is 12 volts and has lights on it which can be used independent of the sound. It cycles through colors, white being an option which helps in this part of the boat that is otherwise dimly lit.

IMG_4899.jpeg
 
Submariner said:
A week ago I relocated my soundbar for the TV. We watch either DVD movies or YouTube via a Roku. The soundbar is 12 volts and has lights on it which can be used independent of the sound. It cycles through colors, white being an option which helps in this part of the boat that is otherwise dimly lit.

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I also like your little clips for charging cables. Ordering some of those today!
 
I also upgraded my Starlink 12volt conversion a week ago on Channel Surfing. It's never before been easier to convert Starlink to 12 volts.

168 watt, 12 to 56 volts DC to DC converter.
150 watt POE Passive POE Injector with Starlink pinouts.
RJ 45 Waterproof twistlok connector.
A little Cat5e or Cat6 network cabling (24 awg Ethernet).

And a 12 volt powered router which has WIFI such as the Peplink Max BR1 Pro 5g or the Peplink Max BR1 mini 5G router (with WI-FI).

This setup is plug and play, literally. I also added an on/off switch so I can run Starlink during the day and turn it off at night.
It pulls 30 watts for the dish, and another 6 watts for the router (also 12 volt powered). This setup works with either a Gen2 or Gen3 dish.

Starlink Gen2 dish in a rod holder.
www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

IMG_6508.jpeg | Boat-Upgrades {Upgrade Name}

Pruth Bay, BC
www.letsgochannelsurfing.com www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

RJ 45 waterproof connector
www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

IMG_8134.jpeg | Boat-Upgrades {Upgrade Name}

www.letsgochannelsurfing.com www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

Installed in the port aft corner..
www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

IMG_8135.jpeg | Boat-Upgrades {Upgrade Name}

www.letsgochannelsurfing.com www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

Installed in on the starboard side
www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

Boat-Upgrades {Upgrade Name}

www.letsgochannelsurfing.com www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

Easy wiring to convert 12volt to 56 volt.
www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

Boat-Upgrades {Upgrade Name}

www.letsgochannelsurfing.com www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

I added an on/off switch. I can run Starlink during the day, and push the button to turn it off for the night.
The red ring on the switch lights when Starlink is powered. When pushed, power disconnects and the light goes dark.
www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

Boat-Upgrades {Upgrade Name}

www.letsgochannelsurfing.com www.letsgochannelsurfing.com
 
Also replaced all 3 bilge pumps (fwd, mid and aft) in the boat. The float switch in the shower sump also failed and was replaced.

I was down to having just the cockpit aft bilge pump work in automatic mode. The mid bilge pump worked only when manually activated. The fwd (bow) bilge pump completely failed. The shower sump float switch had completely failed.

During winterizing, I pour 2 gallons of anti-freeze onto the floor in the head and wait until I hear the shower sump cycle on. Last fall, I didn't hear it cycle, opened the v-berth step and had several inches of anti-freeze in the bilge and the fwd (bow) bilge didn't turn on either. I already knew the fwd (bow) bilge pump had failed, as it did so during our SE Alaska trip in 2023.

The cockpit aft bilge pump is tested regularly, every time I clean the cockpit water fills the bilge and I hear it turn on.

Channel Surfing turns 5 years old this June.

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Are your new automatic bilge pumps quiet? I had one that failed and one that made an annoying brrrrrrr noise every 90 seconds. So I just changed them both over to float switches.
 
venajeff said:
Are your new automatic bilge pumps quiet? I had one that failed and one that made an annoying brrrrrrr noise every 90 seconds. So I just changed them both over to float switches.
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They're both quiet. Having both work via automatic, I now notice the red light flashes on the helm switches. They cycle every 2.5 minutes.
 
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