Replacing the belt tensioner on a Volvo D3

[dougxn]

Say, has anyone replaced this item on your Volvo D3? I have a D3-200I-G in my R27 (2015). It looks to be frozen in place. I put some wd3 on it last night, but in the almost for sure case, I will need to replace it.

If you have and have any advise about getting it done efficiently or with the least amount of pain - I am listening

Looks like I can get the item from eBay for about $300, seems expensive for a spring ().

Thanks - dn

 

[S. Todd]

I replaced ours back in about 2018 and I had no idea why it failed. Fresh water boat stored indoors. Once they stop working getting them freed up is impossible. Not very difficult to replace once you remove the panel between the fuel tank and engine, same panel you remove to do the oil filter change, or the impeller change, so not a big deal. Spraying them frequently with CRC, Boeshield or some other anti-corrosive compound seems to extend their life considerably. In my view it is poorly designed, but what do I know.

 

[dougxn]

Thanks Todd, no dice, as you suspected, on the tensioner, so, I pulled everything yesterday -

• 17mm ratchet to force the tensioner to loosen.
• 8mm to remove tensioner - plus a box end to add torque
• 5mm allen to remove impeller

Waiting for the tensioner to arrive, probably need to look up the torque on these nuts when replacing them - that should be next to impossible - thank you Volvo

I think what ever this black box in the entry compartment - it is something to do with the webasco - is totally in the way and poorly placed. I should move it, but am not up to re-running the fuel lines. Seem like the filter should be like here, but I presume it is up under the microwave

Glad I tackled this now as the impeller was on its last leg - joke intended. I guess I better take a look at the heat exchanger‍

 

[Red Raven]

Thanks Todd, no dice, as you suspected, on the tensioner, so, I pulled everything yesterday -

• 17mm ratchet to force the tensioner to loosen.
• 8mm to remove tensioner - plus a box end to add torque
• 5mm allen to remove impeller

Waiting for the tensioner to arrive, probably need to look up the torque on these nuts when replacing them - that should be next to impossible - thank you Volvo

I think what ever this black box in the entry compartment - it is something to do with the webasco - is totally in the way and poorly placed. I should move it, but am not up to re-running the fuel lines. Seem like the filter should be like here, but I presume it is up under the microwave

Glad I tackled this now as the impeller was on its last leg - joke intended. I guess I better take a look at the heat exchanger‍

I have replaced my D3 tensioner once. I believe they fail due to the proximity below the impeller pump. When the impeller is changed with water still in it the water spills out onto the tensioner. If the water is salt water then even worse. The solution is to remove the tensioner every time you replace the impeller. It is only one Allen bolt to remove it. If the tensioner is not removed at a minimum fresh water should be run through the pump prior if in salt water.

The black box under the step is the Webasto pump and filter. I added quick disconnects on the wiring to make it easier to move out of the way when accessing the front of the engine.

I hope this helps.

Curt

 

[LMRanger]

Actually one of the easier jobs I've done on my R25SC, once you get the belt offf. I was going to replace the belt at the time and just hack sawed the old belt.

Ralph

 

[Chimo]

Just a follow up couple of thoughts Doug. I’m assuming the boat is new to you. Hope I don’t offend.

If your impeller was on life support and the tensioner was frozen that would point to missing maintenence. The Volvo schedule is to inspect every year and replace every two. From original, my impeller was always like new when checked but I changed it annually since I already had the pump off. After 5 years I decided that changing every 2 years was OK. That’s PNW salt water. When I was on the Chesapeake Bay in muddy brackish water every year was a must. The tensioner has been stuck a couple of times but I’ve managed to free it both times.

Given your experience you may want to think about the timing belt. The schedule is 8 years. I just had ours replaced. It was a $$$!! job but I didn’t want to tackle it. There’s lots of discussion on this if you search. I didn’t want to move the engine so, to improve access I had the step cut out and replaced with some teak. That was an incredible improvement.

Curt, as usual, is right about the heater pump. I put disconnects in the piping but I have yet to do the wiring. The tech working on the timing belt said it wasn’t a problem, tucked away round the corner. You may want to replace the filter in that little black box.

Don’t blame the lack of access on either Volvo or RT. The former built an engine for a vehicle and logically all those belts and stuff are right where they should be in a car. Unless you use V-drives engines are back to front in a boat. RT stuffs an awesome amount of equipment in a boat and the result in this hull is the result. I’m sure that, were they doing the design today, the step would be very different with a removable top panel.

Take care of that engine, they don’t make replacements any more.

 

[dougxn]

Well it is all done - replaced impeller, tensioner, both belts. See my earlier post:

Tensioner: Volvo Penta OEM Belt Tensioner, 21424647 from eBay, I noticed the price is now $327, I paid $290 something.
Impeller: impeller kit 21951352, about $65
Belts:
Engine Alternator Belt : 22283751 $36
Engine Waterpump Belt: 21160912 $26

I also took Curt's advice and put a quick disconnect on the electrical for the webasco pump. At least it will be easier next time.

Thanks everyone for your help and advice - dn

 

[dougxn]

Just a follow up couple of thoughts Doug. I’m assuming the boat is new to you. Hope I don’t offend.

If your impeller was on life support and the tensioner was frozen that would point to missing maintenence. The Volvo schedule is to inspect every year and replace every two. From original, my impeller was always like new when checked but I changed it annually since I already had the pump off. After 5 years I decided that changing every 2 years was OK. That’s PNW salt water. When I was on the Chesapeake Bay in muddy brackish water every year was a must. The tensioner has been stuck a couple of times but I’ve managed to free it both times.

Given your experience you may want to think about the timing belt. The schedule is 8 years. I just had ours replaced. It was a $$$!! job but I didn’t want to tackle it. There’s lots of discussion on this if you search. I didn’t want to move the engine so, to improve access I had the step cut out and replaced with some teak. That was an incredible improvement.

Curt, as usual, is right about the heater pump. I put disconnects in the piping but I have yet to do the wiring. The tech working on the timing belt said it wasn’t a problem, tucked away round the corner. You may want to replace the filter in that little black box.

Don’t blame the lack of access on either Volvo or RT. The former built an engine for a vehicle and logically all those belts and stuff are right where they should be in a car. Unless you use V-drives engines are back to front in a boat. RT stuffs an awesome amount of equipment in a boat and the result in this hull is the result. I’m sure that, were they doing the design today, the step would be very different with a removable top panel.

Take care of that engine, they don’t make replacements any more.

Ah, just saw this, I will put the timing belt in my spreadsheet to have a think on it. That may (or may not) be above my pay scale ‍ I have had my r27 about 2 years now. But when I bought it I had someone do a bunch of stuff, so I wouldn't have to be a mechanic straight out of the gate.

Oh, that is where the filter is, I glad you said that, I was assuming it was up in the front somewhere

thanks again - dn